Help me pass emissions..

[r4esh]

I appreciate the feedback from everyone. I try some different options here and "keep running through" until I pass :\ and I can add a vacuum leak like 328ijunkie suggested, which would more than likely get me through, I just ultimately wont to address whats wrong the car because it shouldn't have this issue.

I have another O2 sensor I'm going to try and in the meantime I'll create a minor vacuum leak. I'm using the Bimmerworld silicone boot that has the 2 holes (for obd2), 1 goes to the ICV, and on OBD1 cars the other hole gets plugged. If I open up that hole or open it up maybe just enough for a straw to fit think that'll work? or will that be "too much" of a vacuum leak? It would be taking place AFTER the MAF, so should be good?

[SwiftE30]

any small vacuum leak is going to make it run like crap. But if its only to pass emissions, i guess it would be ok. Not sure if that will fix your problem though.

You said you were running your charcoal canister, not sure if someone already mentioned this but do you have the little evap sensor plugged in? I know my car was running really rough and rich when i didnt have the it plugged in.

[328ijunkie]

^That reminds me, how is that plumbed? I see some people running the evap vac line from the TB to the valve straight to the vent line for the tank w/o a charcoal canister. This will result in you pulling vac on the gas tank and sucking straight fuel vapor in.

[r4esh]

328iJunkie - great idea on the charcoal setup. I'll check in the morning. I'm pretty sure this isn't the case, but if its something as simple as that, then that'd be awesome. .. i shall report back.

[328ijunkie]

^ I mentioned to check this because the first swap I ever did i hooked it up this way (charcoal canister was already gone from car) and had some weird stuff happen.

[r4esh]

A picture says a thousands words... That super high-tech rendered "diagram" is how my charcoal canister is currently setup.... is it right or wrong?

[SwiftE30]

thats right.

[328ijunkie]

Well there goes that theory.

[SwiftE30]

bummer, i was really hoping that was it.

[r4esh]

Okay the plot thickens..

I haven't had anytime really to mess with the car, so this morning I created a small vacuum leak... I emphasize small. I ran through emissions again. While I was there the employee (obviously a gear-head) started my test and when we got to idle he leaned into my window and said "hey rev up to about 1500rpm for the idle test". Gatta love dedicated workers, however I STILL failed, this time it wasa little lower at 371 HC instead of 424 HC... :(

Small vacuum + idling at 1500rpm and STILL fail... which brings be back to the concerns that something REALLY needs to be addressed with my car :/

[328ijunkie]

How much oil does it burn?

[r4esh]

mmm... maybe a quart over the past year? No oil leaks either.. you're thinking seals? How does everyone feel about running that "guarentee'd to pass" product that you throw in your gas tank? if the $20 bucks that costs gets me through for now and I can then address the issue afterward without worrying about getting pulled over and earning myself a nice ticket, etc then I think Ill do it. Is that stuff in anyway bad / hard on the engine or anything? Could it potentially hurt things to run it? Does it just burn really hot and effectively or something?

[bernzpeed]

It's called CRC. Anyways, is your cat hot enough when you get it smogged. It has to be for it to pass smog.

[bernzpeed]

I forgot to mention i used that stuff all the time and no fail.

[dougsic]

My s50 has failed the last two test cycles ever since I installed the Bimmerworld Shrick cams kit (injectors, tune etc). With stock setup I would "Fastpass" easily.

Last time around I tried the CRC Guaranteed To Pass product but there was virtually no change in the results.

I also installed a Magnaflow cat and it made no difference over the generic cat that had been in use.

Good luck - I feel your pain!