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One of 2 things:
CPS as has been mentioned. I bought one from Autozone when I had what I thought was the same issue for $50. You should really get an OEM quality one but turns out it wasn't the CPS on mine, I left the autozone in for now (because - lazy) and it's running fine with no codes.
The other thing is the OBC immobilizer. This was my problem. I can't remember if the ICV was buzzing or not but I think it was. CEL light, etc. Cranks over like a champ but never fired.
In order to get the car to start post swap, I had to bypass the OBC immobilizer. Here are some threads that helped me. It's pretty easy to test. I literally stuck a flat screwdriver in the plug to short the two green wires and when I did it fired right up.
Usually if OBC circuit is dead it kills 'ing on' power to ECU which will make ECU never power on=no ICV buzz, ever.
That's good to know. I thought the immobilizer stopped the fuel injection. I found and fixed both issues in a day or two from each other; so I can't remember which issue had which symptom at this point!
Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - Stonea
So I thought the ECU couldn't be dead because depending on what chip I could get all the functions, just not all in one chip supper frustrating. I tried multiple CPS units and OHMd them all out to be correct. I ended up at the bone yard or 12, finally finding a red label ecu. Low and behold the car fired as soon as the key turned (with out the fuel pump priming which I don't understand?). It was running rough, but I was just more astonished it was running period! I killed it cause the radiator wasn't hooked up. I tired to fire it again just to get a video and it just kep cranking and cranking. I could smell fuel so I stopped pulled the plugs and they were swimming in gas. Dried the plugs and repeated and found the same thing. So I pulled the fuel pump relay turned over and it started ran for like 3 seconds and died. I tried jumping the relay as soon as it started and it dies flooding out when the fuel pump kicks in..... kinda weird
So where Im at now is turner said they couldn't make the right chip and to just send theres back. So I called up Markert Motor Works and ordered a chip due here before the weekend. I also ordered some new injectors and FPR to make sure this flooding stops before I wash something away.
Now some other new problems I was having when I got it to run was the idle would shoot up I pulled ICV plug and that stopped so Im not sure if I have a vacuum leak or if the ICV is bad, guess I need to search on the front. Also the tach wasn't registering any thing when the motor was running.
Sometimes my pump doesn't prime before cranking either, just nature of OBD1 I guess.
You should check your MAF. I had a chip that was 'tuned' and when I started tuning a new chip myself, the car ran extremely rich. Turns out one of the 'tuners' here on the board had disguised the bad MAF in his tune.
My tach didn't work either and it turned out to be a bad water logged ECU, but I think I troubleshot every possible path on that one. When you get your chip if the tach doesn't work hit me up. I've been down that road!
Thank god, R3V was getting boring since the ginger kid wrecked his car. - Stonea
My tach didn't work either and it turned out to be a bad water logged ECU, but I think I troubleshot every possible path on that one. When you get your chip if the tach doesn't work hit me up. I've been down that road!
Well I've opened this one and its pristine, so i hope its just chip.... Other wise more hunting. haha
Update, but still need help. So I got new rebuilt pink top injectors a new 3.5 bar FPR and tune. The engine is still flooding and having idle issues. When it does start it pegs out, so i unplugged the ICV and it will idle for me. So is the ICV bad? or do i have a really bad vacuum leak somewhere? Also what would cause flooding? As always your help and knowledge is greatly appreciated.
So I unplugged the MAF, head temp, and ICV. With the same results. It starts first click then floods out. Now something we found is the head temp was corroded inside. The plug tip broke off and it was all rotted inside sorta strange it was the one off the M20 so I gotta grab a new one today but still at a stand still with it.
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