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is a m50 swap worth it?

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    yeah the hook on the back of the motor is a good spot. You'll need to get it nice and vertical (almost) if the trans is on to slip it in there without any damage.

    You can leave on all the engine accessories except the A/C parts. make sure to leave the motor mounts dangling in there loose on the arms too so you can easily position them when they get close. It should only take about 20 minutes to lower it in and line it up (the 1st time), it's really not that bad.

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      motor is in, having some trouble with the heater hoses. i changed to the e30 rear block heater hose and the spider hose is kinking really bad. which goes on the top and bottom?
      NEED SOME VINYL STICKERS???

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        Spider, top
        Hose on back of head, bottom

        Bend the metal lines (being gentle) so that they are roughly parallel to the ground.

        You can get tricky and offset them slightly so that you can get to both hose clamps from the top, as I learned from Jason89i.

        I used some 1/4" fuel line wrapped around a screwdriver, inserted into the metal lines, to get some leverage and also protect the lines.

        Originally posted by whysimon
        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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          seems like in order to get the spider hose on the top without it kinking is to run it above the brake booster.

          I got the motor mounts on and tight but im having a problem with the tranny mount. i when with the 2 different size mount that trent recomended, but i have a 1/2" gap on the drivers side. dont know if its because of the motor mounts or if i will just have to modify the tranny bracket.









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            that hose should go under the intake mani. try pushing the metal hose towards the center of the car and down a touch. Mine fits right under the manifold and dosnt contact the booster or even come close. Maybe it got bent taking the M20 out? it just dosnt look right
            -Chris

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              The engine is sitting wrong. It seems the engine is in crooked, because the mounts are supposed to fit flush against the subframe and the little metal nubbin on the engine mount should fit into the circular hole on the subframe. Just lift the front of the engine using the engine lift hook, and pry the engine towards one side or the other to get better alignment.

              Originally posted by whysimon
              WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                Fredk is right about the motor mounts. They should be flush on the frame and the nubs will line up with the holes in the frame. The motor mounts shouldn't rock on the frame at all.

                When you get to the transmission mount, you should cut the low side so that the mount isn't twisted at an angle.

                Cut a pie shaped section from the sides of the mount and flatten the top down. Then weld it back to solid. Also flatten the little ridge on top if the mount gets in the way of it. We weld that hole up too but only to make the support look more "finished". It doesn't improve the strength or anything.

                I take out .250 on each side as you can see in the photo.
                Attached Files

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                  lol, just because it's bigger doesnt mean that it is going to be at the right angle.

                  dougsic makes some sick shit, I recommend his work.
                  It put my fabricating skillz to shame.

                  ps, nice job so far on the swap.

                  "It's like a koala bear crapped a rainbow in my brain."
                  R.I.P. Harry Goz aka. Captain Murphy
                  "My ride, My ride, she don't beg, steal, cheat, or lie,
                  My ride, My ride, and our relationship is classified."

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                    so basically i can take my air grinder to the passenger side of the mount and slice it?

                    the space you see on the subframe is spacers. maybe they should go on the top of the mount, or mabe i should use them at all.
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                      Originally posted by BDSax View Post
                      so basically i can take my air grinder to the passenger side of the mount and slice it?

                      the space you see on the subframe is spacers. maybe they should go on the top of the mount, or mabe i should use them at all.
                      Dude Are you using spacers on the engine? I had 0 problems using the E36 trans mounts and no spacers. You will have to suck the mount bracket up to the mounts but it will settle after you run the car for a while.
                      Originally posted by 325Projectz
                      don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                      :nice:

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                        yeah, ill probably just take them out.
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                          Originally posted by BDSax View Post
                          yeah, ill probably just take them out.
                          And you are using the E36 trans right? If so then you should not have any prob with no spacers and e36 trans mounts.
                          Originally posted by 325Projectz
                          don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                          :nice:

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                            E30 trans.

                            RISING EDGE

                            Let's drive fast and have fun.

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                              Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
                              E30 trans.


                              Get an e36 trans.
                              Originally posted by 325Projectz
                              don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
                              :nice:

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                                i think im getting it. The O2 sensor was hitting and the damn heater hose was hitting and it was kinking the spider hose. wish me luck!
                                NEED SOME VINYL STICKERS???

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