Im doing this now to mine, and are you SURE the black and red wire is the one to use? The schematic shows that wire as a signal from the AC pressure switch... Not the snowflake button signal. I connected the black/red to DME pin 65 and it made the CEL come on and it all acted funny. I think theres something with the pressure switches on e36 providing a ground and the switches on E30 providing a power or vice versa. I removed that pin 65 connection and just connected the black and violet wire from the snowflake button to pin 64 and it seems to be working OK
a/c compressor to work on 24v
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Im doing this now to mine, and are you SURE the black and red wire is the one to use? The schematic shows that wire as a signal from the AC pressure switch... Not the snowflake button signal. I connected the black/red to DME pin 65 and it made the CEL come on and it all acted funny. I think theres something with the pressure switches on e36 providing a ground and the switches on E30 providing a power or vice versa. I removed that pin 65 connection and just connected the black and violet wire from the snowflake button to pin 64 and it seems to be working OKDon't forget to hook up the hot A/C lead (a black 2 wire connector in/behind the center dash that is wrapped in gray factory tape). Look for it and use the blk/red wire and pin it out to 64 on the DME to get the car to idle up when you energize the A/C. Otherwise, it will idle-cycle (up and down) because the DME will not know to raise the idle for a load.
Did this today and now the idle is steady A/C or not. Before today, when coming to a stop with the A/C on, the car would idle cycle from 500-900rpm constantly. Now the idle is cream smooth @ 8-900 rpm with A/C. No fluctuation.
Hope this helps.
Ed
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