ebay headers

[kroberts]

Have you ever regretted posting something.

I have...recently

[golde30]

got my set today, and they arent as bad as the ones pictured above. the look like the were welded on the inside on some, and grinded down. on about 3 of the pipes, u can see in the inner lip, but on those it is flush. im satisfied with the product finish.

[dougsic]

If you plan on using BMW gaskets as I recommended, you'll need to clearence the flange between the ports. I did it on the milling machine but you could just use a die grinder.

Look back at the earlier post and compare the flange to the one below.

Hope this helps and have fun welding!

[golde30]

^ or you could cut the stock gaskets so that they are individual.

[Van Westervelt]

Why do you need to cut them? The gasket is 4 times as thick as that little metal connection. The headers sit all the way down, and close all gaps. That little tab is just so that you can remove them from the head easier. It poses no problem, and none of the stock manifolds that I have are grooved like that.

[rede30]

Since this thread is still alive and kicking i will add more mass to it. I got the headers from trendy_auto, they look great but i have few questions about the fit. as you can see they touch here, do i just raise the motor up a little bit, is this a problem having it touch ever so slighlty? I had to take that little heat shield that was on my s50 motor arms off so the headers could clear the arm, is this going to be a problem? The header is mm away from it.

[PiercedE30]

just shim the exhaust side mount up a 1/4 inch or so.

[dougsic]

Why do you need to cut them? The gasket is 4 times as thick as that little metal connection. The headers sit all the way down, and close all gaps. That little tab is just so that you can remove them from the head easier. It poses no problem, and none of the stock manifolds that I have are grooved like that.

You might be right that the thin wire will collapse - I never tried it.

I don't know what stock manifolds you have - I only have experience with stock s50 manifolds and as you can see, they do have reliefs cast into them so that the metal wire doesn't have to be crushed.

I think that just cutting the wire might be a viable solution if you can't/don't want to cut the flange.

[dougsic]

do i just raise the motor up a little bit, is this a problem having it touch ever so slighlty? I had to take that little heat shield that was on my s50 motor arms off so the headers could clear the arm, is this going to be a problem? The header is mm away from it.

I had to remove the heat shield off too with no ill effects.

As far as shimming the motor, I started by using the supplied square shims but they were way too thick so I reverted to using washers. After a few tries, I ended up only needing one washer as a shim on the passenger side and I have enough clearence for a US quarter to fit between the headers and the crossmember.

[rede30]

yea those square deals are a no go, i will get some washers in there tomorrow. Thanks for the heads up about the shield.

[Van Westervelt]

Odd that you guys are having all these problems fitting them. Mine went in just fine, no spacers needed. Just drilled the rivets off the heatshield that wasnt touching to remove it, just too close for comfort.

[kroberts]

I just "tacked" them on with a couple nuts to check the fit. I too had to remove the heatshield from the support arm. My motor is now officially finished...too bad my car isn't.

kr

[golde30]

^you gonna run a/c on that swap? if not, why didnt you take off the a/c bracket?

[mazur]

I just "tacked" them on with a couple nuts to check the fit. I too had to remove the heatshield from the support arm. My motor is now officially finished...too bad my car isn't.

kr

So you gonna measure the pipes up for us to let us know if they're in fact equal length?

[BDSax]

you can tell they arent from that picture