My e30 318is s52 swap thread

[loonibab325i]

Not necessarily true... For some reason the spacing of various items on these swaps (fans, brake boosters, etc...) vary greatly from swap to swap. I've seen plenty of setups that have maintained the stock fan/clutch setup. In fact, the stock fan/clutch fit fine with my euro engine.

yeah, there was no way my factory s52 fan clutch fit. I'm not saying you can't get one to work, because you can. I just think you might as well delete it and go a different way.

-Abe.

[Mike B.]

get rid of the mech Fan AND clutch. the only thing that will fit between the engine and the radiator is a SPAL 16" 2.05"thick 1300CFM fan....and it'll have maybe .1-.2" of clearance. i still had the stock A/C pusher on the front, i planned to keep the condenser but not any more so i might get a high CFM 14" SPAL pusher for the front.

also, you don't have to delete the TB coolant lines, if you want to put a sensor there, just Tee it and route the flow 90* so that the sensor gets plenty of flow...(temp sensor right?) this is what i'm going to do

Not necessarily true... For some reason the spacing of various items on these swaps (fans, brake boosters, etc...) vary greatly from swap to swap. I've seen plenty of setups that have maintained the stock fan/clutch setup. In fact, the stock fan/clutch fit fine with my euro engine.

[etxxz]

get rid of the mech Fan AND clutch. the only thing that will fit between the engine and the radiator is a SPAL 16" 2.05"thick 1300CFM fan....and it'll have maybe .1-.2" of clearance. i still had the stock A/C pusher on the front, i planned to keep the condenser but not any more so i might get a high CFM 14" SPAL pusher for the front.

also, you don't have to delete the TB coolant lines, if you want to put a sensor there, just Tee it and route the flow 90* so that the sensor gets plenty of flow...(temp sensor right?) this is what i'm going to do

[dude8383]

Ok, i sent my car of to the shop to get the clutch fixed, but as soon as I get it back i'm going to post what I did and pictures.

Windsor, that's what I did. I installed my oil pan, and didn't mess with any coolant hoses, or wiring until I put the motor in, i also made sure to have the headers installed while the motor was out of the car. Don't get frustrated when your putting the motor in, it could take a while.. it took me and my buddies about 2 hours trying to get it in there!! It was kinda frustrating haha.



Also, you really don't have to worry about your oil pan nut on the s52s, it's the s50 guys who like to track/autoX/drive their cars heavily who have the oil pump nut issues. You can never be too safe, but i didn't bother messing with mine.

Also, if you haven't already remove your fan clutch out of the car, i think it would be easier, it was kind of a pita doing it in the car, but not to bad.

-Abe.

Nice!

Quick question, are you going to keep the fan clutch or remove it?

Any plans to run an electric fan?

What about you Windsor?

[loonibab325i]

Ok, i sent my car of to the shop to get the clutch fixed, but as soon as I get it back i'm going to post what I did and pictures.

Windsor, that's what I did. I installed my oil pan, and didn't mess with any coolant hoses, or wiring until I put the motor in, i also made sure to have the headers installed while the motor was out of the car. Don't get frustrated when your putting the motor in, it could take a while.. it took me and my buddies about 2 hours trying to get it in there!! It was kinda frustrating haha.



Also, you really don't have to worry about your oil pan nut on the s52s, it's the s50 guys who like to track/autoX/drive their cars heavily who have the oil pump nut issues. You can never be too safe, but i didn't bother messing with mine.

Also, if you haven't already remove your fan clutch out of the car, i think it would be easier, it was kind of a pita doing it in the car, but not to bad.

-Abe.

[dude8383]

yes please, that sounds easier. any engine lights that way? whatever pics you have that might help me, send them to windsor318is@msn.com. im contimplating on installing it the way it is, the oilpan is the only thing i need to do to put it in now. what you think, it shouldnt be that much of a pain in the ass to plum the coolant lines and put the manifold back on while the engines in the car.....not like i have room in a single garage anyways lol.

he should post them here so that all of us that are following your build can see what he's talking about :)

i say this because i'm interested too!!!

[windsor318is]

yes please, that sounds easier. any engine lights that way? whatever pics you have that might help me, send them to windsor318is@msn.com. im contimplating on installing it the way it is, the oilpan is the only thing i need to do to put it in now. what you think, it shouldnt be that much of a pain in the ass to plum the coolant lines and put the manifold back on while the engines in the car.....not like i have room in a single garage anyways lol.

[loonibab325i]

I deleted my throttle body coolant hoses, and we dyed the sensor and made it fit were the coolant hose attaches to the head. I can take pics if u want.

-Abe.

[windsor318is]

installed booster, resouvoir, throttle cable, engine arms,and removed the oil pan, any idea why zionsville changes to a thicker gas pedal stop, i took a pic of the original and the one they send with there install kit.




is this the nut they say i have to make sure isnt loose??

[mentaleeill]

obd1 requires only 1 o2 sensor. plug the 2 holes in the headers and install a new bung about 3 inches after the 2 pipes merge.

[windsor318is]

so you didnt bother drilling and tapping the extra sensor?

[loonibab325i]

Haha, I am in the same boat as you dude, right now my oxy sensor is connected to the harness, but chilling somewhere in my motor bay? I haven't really driven the car besides around my neighborhood, so it isn't really messing anything up.. but yeah, I am trying to figure out what to do with that. I know you can extend the o2 sensor, i think it splits into 4 separate wires, just get 4 wires, same gauges as the oxy sensor wires and make it as long as u want, but closer to the motor the better.

I am getting a resonator as well, not sure which one though, but I will let you know what I end up doing.


Also, make sure you have a obd 1 oxygen sensor, because I heard the obd2 ones do not work? Also, you do not need to run more then one oxy sensor.

For the wiring, you should also have a few wires that wont be plugged in, so if u have a few extra plugs, do not trip!

I am not running the crankcase ventilation system, nor am I running the charcoal cannister, or the emission evaporation sensor, from the s52. You can also delete the crappy little metal vac line that connects somewhere on the s52 secondary air pump.


keep me updated,

-Abe.

[windsor318is]

oh i love you, thats a good start for me, i think im going to fit the engine in first, i have no room to move anyways, ill do it while the engine is in.

the cd doesnt change the metal piping, thats why i was confuse because i thought i had to have the piping from the old one. im going to see what i can do, there seems to be a million ways to pipe this thing. they also used the obd2 throttle body, i quess you can use both. which sucks, cause i have both. ill keep you posted, with any problems.

oh ya....where did you end up putting the o2s then? i sold my obd1 cats, im getting the supersprint resonator, and i dont think theres a bung on it.

[loonibab325i]

ya i ment the one on the intake manifold, i have all the firewall parts. how the hell did you know what plug was what from the harness? im getting confused.

Dude, I swear to you i had the EXACT problem.. this is when you start to learn how to read schematics haha.

It's really simple, don't let it overwhelm you, first, thing first, on your wire harness (hopefully it's out of the car) pull the little rubber boots around the plugs back till you see the wires, the way you can tell what plug goes to what is by matching what wires the plug has, for instance.. if a plug has pink orange yellow wires, it goes to the blah blah.

And this is what you are going to follow.

oil pressure sensor BRN/GRN or BRN/GRY
front coolant temperature sensor (ECU) BRN/RED BRN
rear coolant temperature sensor (Gauge Sensor) BRN/YEL BRN/VIO
cam position sensor YEL RED/WHT BRN/ORG
VANOS solenoid RED/WHT GRN/BLU
throttle position sensor (TPS) BRN BRN/BLK RED/YEL
intake air temperature (IAT) sensor BRN GRY
idle control valve (ICV) WHT/YEL RED/WHT WHT/GRN
crank position sensor YEL BLK NCA
Evaporative emissions valve BRN RED/WHT
knock sensor, 1-3 BLK NCA DME PIN 70
knock sensor, 4-6 BLK NCA DME PIN 69


-Abe.

[loonibab325i]

Also, do you plan on keeping the metal coolant hose or convert to the rubber one? Everybody told me to use the obd1 rubber one but I just used the metal coolant hose.. i don't know why people were telling me you can't, what does your CD say about that? I would really recommend staying with the metal coolant hose.

Also, yes, the cd is right, there is no way u can put a o2 sensor on those headers while they are on the car!!!!!!!!!

-Abe