Swap: M3 e30 + S50 Pics inside

[e30trooper]

Yeah i think for that kind of power it should pull alot faster in 3rd.

[Taper]

pull in 3th




Is enough faster?


I think this car can run more faster, 1340kg for 286hp

[Edev]

Ah do like! Congrats on the swap. It looks like it'll be a very, very fun car to drive :)

[Taper]

it's alive

[Taper]

finally I send the engine to a "workshop" to rebuild it completely

I hope to have it in 10/15 days

[RoadHazard]

What did you replace the engine with?

[Mohammed_A]

Its my pleasure

[Taper]

its quite easy to remove the vanos, pm me, i'll guide u through it step by step

Many thanks for your interest Mohammed_A ;), but finally I decided to send the engine to a guy from Spain

[Mohammed_A]

thanks for the info Lee!


At this moment I try to find a guide to dissasembly the vanos system to remove the head.

its quite easy to remove the vanos, pm me, i'll guide u through it step by step

[1mz]

owch!

ouch indeed :(

[MaloventEvil]

Hi Taper. Don't turn that motor anymore.

Do a compression test to isolate the "bad" cylinder. The one with the highest (to the roof) compression will be the cylinder where coolant leaks. Then remove the head and measure how warped it is. Most likely, if the head is only warped, you'll need to remove the cam boxes, then have the head pressed back to close-to-spec, and then milled/planned. If the head is badly warped, it means the cam box are warped too and the cam are not going to spin freely. Look for sign of wear on the cam journals/bearings.

I am currently going thru the exact same process after "one of the kids" was so excited doing its first race, he forgot to watch the water temp and ran a very expensive 350hp race engine, coolantless for half a race... The head is warped by 0.75mm in the center.

owch!

[Taper]

thanks for the info Lee!


At this moment I try to find a guide to dissasembly the vanos system to remove the head.

[Massive Lee]

Hi Taper. Don't turn that motor anymore.

Do a compression test to isolate the "bad" cylinder. The one with the highest (to the roof) compression will be the cylinder where coolant leaks. Then remove the head and measure how warped it is. Most likely, if the head is only warped, you'll need to remove the cam boxes, then have the head pressed back to close-to-spec, and then milled/planned. If the head is badly warped, it means the cam box are warped too and the cam are not going to spin freely. Look for sign of wear on the cam journals/bearings.

I am currently going thru the exact same process after "one of the kids" was so excited doing its first race, he forgot to watch the water temp and ran a very expensive 350hp race engine, coolantless for half a race... The head is warped by 0.75mm in the center.

[Under_Pressure]

o thats not good. Have you done a leak down test? also a compression

[Taper]

more troubles with my swap

this is that I found in the intake




and this in the cylinder head

take a look the colour of the oil
:evil: