You probably have the small shift selector rod in "backwards" if you will. At least I did that on my swap, it would rub on the flex disc when I shifted into 5th. Flipped it over the other day and it's much better.
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Finally, my swap thread!
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Driveline noise is gone!!
It was a combination of the driveline not being perfectly aligned and maybe not enought (or too much) preload on the center bearing.
Now I'm down to the Check Engine light. I'm guessing it's the O2 sensor but the light doesn't even go off when I'm driving now. How do I pull the code to see what it is fur sure??
I've tried verifying +12v to the heater circuit and everything appears as it should... +12 to the relay coil, +12 to the contactor and ground on the other side of the coil. The relay clicks over ... I've tried two relays.... but no +12v on the load side. That's with the O2 sensor unplugged so it's not a load thing. I'm stumped.
I shorted +12 directly to the heater element and still the light won't extinguish.
Ideas??
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Yeah, that's the problem. I've plugged the O2 sensor in.
Yesterday it was an intermittent Check Engine light that only came on when I had been idling for a minute, and would go out once I drove and got on the gas. Logically, I thought it was the O2 heater circuit. Now the light is on constantly.
Judging by the ETM the DME supplies both the ground and the +12 for the relay to trip. The relay trips, but for some reason the +12 doesn't seem to be making it to the load size. Even when I short it with a wire jumper it still doesn't correct the light.
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I spent some time looking at the O2 relay today and my take is that it's not a power problem, it's a ground problem. The computer is supplying ground to the relay but the DME's transistor doesn't pass enough current to trip the relay. That's why I was flumuxed yesterday... I had ground and power but the relay wasn't tripping.
Is anybody able to measure the current that the DME allows through the relay??
Also, I have an "SRS" light now. What in the world would have tripped that??
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