Finally, my swap thread!

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  • WillisE30
    E30 Modder
    • Jan 2007
    • 831

    #16
    You probably have the small shift selector rod in "backwards" if you will. At least I did that on my swap, it would rub on the flex disc when I shifted into 5th. Flipped it over the other day and it's much better.
    sigpicFormer professional wrench thrower.
    Current:
    1988 325is S52
    Former:
    2008 Sparkling Graphite M3 Sedan(victim of home ownership)
    1988 M5
    1996 328is

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    • hoveringuy
      R3VLimited
      • Dec 2005
      • 2673

      #17
      Driveline noise is gone!!

      It was a combination of the driveline not being perfectly aligned and maybe not enought (or too much) preload on the center bearing.

      Now I'm down to the Check Engine light. I'm guessing it's the O2 sensor but the light doesn't even go off when I'm driving now. How do I pull the code to see what it is fur sure??

      I've tried verifying +12v to the heater circuit and everything appears as it should... +12 to the relay coil, +12 to the contactor and ground on the other side of the coil. The relay clicks over ... I've tried two relays.... but no +12v on the load side. That's with the O2 sensor unplugged so it's not a load thing. I'm stumped.

      I shorted +12 directly to the heater element and still the light won't extinguish.

      Ideas??

      Comment

      • Jason89i
        E30 Modder
        • Sep 2004
        • 875

        #18
        no o2 sensor will cause check engine light. once your done with exhaust, plug it in.

        cheers, jason

        Comment

        • hoveringuy
          R3VLimited
          • Dec 2005
          • 2673

          #19
          Yeah, that's the problem. I've plugged the O2 sensor in.

          Yesterday it was an intermittent Check Engine light that only came on when I had been idling for a minute, and would go out once I drove and got on the gas. Logically, I thought it was the O2 heater circuit. Now the light is on constantly.

          Judging by the ETM the DME supplies both the ground and the +12 for the relay to trip. The relay trips, but for some reason the +12 doesn't seem to be making it to the load size. Even when I short it with a wire jumper it still doesn't correct the light.

          Comment

          • matt
            No R3VLimiter
            • Oct 2003
            • 3731

            #20
            What code are you getting?

            The great thing about the CEL... it tells you what's wrong!

            Search "stomp test" if you don't have a Peake or don't know what that is.

            Comment

            • hoveringuy
              R3VLimited
              • Dec 2005
              • 2673

              #21
              Stomp test doens't do anything.. light stays on solid.

              On the other hand, I did learn that having an O2 relay problem makes me a member of a very popular club.

              Finally, I need to order a throttle cable. Is there any difference between the e34 and e36 one and which is better??

              Comment

              • hoveringuy
                R3VLimited
                • Dec 2005
                • 2673

                #22
                I spent some time looking at the O2 relay today and my take is that it's not a power problem, it's a ground problem. The computer is supplying ground to the relay but the DME's transistor doesn't pass enough current to trip the relay. That's why I was flumuxed yesterday... I had ground and power but the relay wasn't tripping.

                Is anybody able to measure the current that the DME allows through the relay??

                Also, I have an "SRS" light now. What in the world would have tripped that??

                Comment

                • VAPORBLADE
                  E30 Mastermind
                  • Sep 2006
                  • 1771

                  #23
                  The pic with you in the army helmet is the shit!
                  '89 "is" = M technic II build mode.

                  sigpic

                  Comment

                  • matt
                    No R3VLimiter
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 3731

                    #24
                    Originally posted by hoveringuy
                    Stomp test doens't do anything.. light stays on solid.
                    Then you aren't doing it right. Even if you have no codes, it should still flash.

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