The comprehensive DOHC engine swap thread.

[Ryan Stewart]

If you really squeezed you could pull the entire M50 swap in for $3000. Like Kyle said though have some cash in hand or have another car to drive just in case something goes wrong. Remember that you are fitting a used motor into a used car.

My S50 swap is going to end up totalling about $7800 but I went through the motor and replaced a lot of stuff while it was out and went for a lot of brand new parts around the motor. Also a few upgrades, HFM, S52 headers, full stainless exhaust, metric cluster, T-stat housing and waterpump. If I had just done it by the books I think it could have been pulled off for $6000. I also opted to keep the EWS controller and just get the brain reprogrammed (speaking of, if someone needs a EWS disabled chip for a 513 ECU I have one for sale, 0 miles).

The next couple steps are a single peice alum radiator and puller fan. I also need to pull the condenser at some point.

[JGood]

I'm just not seeing how it costs so much...

Engine/harness/ecu...$1500
New gaskets, some other maintanance replacement parts for engine...$500-$800
Other Parts- exhaust, mounts, etc... $500-$800

I don't see how people get up past $5,000 with basic swaps.

I did my five speed swap, and bought almost every part brand new, hundereds of parts, and was only in at around $1500, after going through a bad tranny and having to purchase another one.

[Addissimo]

So far... I'm at about $1400. Engine, ECU, Wiring Harness, Tranny, Diff, M3 cams and other goodies. If you shop, you'll be able to do it for a lot less. I still need some random things, but nothing I'm too worried about. If you're interested, I'm looking into a different engine setup, and I'll sell you my engine for $600+ shipping. It has about 60k miles on it, came from an auto e34 with VANOS (1993 car). I'm stealing the oil pan and sump from it, so you'll need those two things, along with mounting arms ($40 for the sump, $150 for the pan, about $40 for the mounting arms). That includes the wiring harness. FYI, thats $250 less than I bought it for about 3 weeks ago. The cams I'll let go for $320, from a 95 with 40k miles, thats exactly what I put into them, and I know I can get more for them if I posted elsewhere... I'm just too lazy to do that right now. If the ECU ever gets here, I'll throw that in with the engine.

PM if you're interested.

Addis

[kylebes1]

The cost goes up when you break into it. Things add up, take the advice.

Ei:

If you spend 2200 on your engine/ trans, DME, Harness, a new e36 radiator and e36 a/c compressor, then your list has just begun.

Next you have 70 for e28 535 engine mounts, or e28 m5 mounts.

At least 400 for a decent exhaust, btw let the engine sit for a week bfore you have it done, the mounts settled half an inch for me, that means now the exhaust hits the sway bar.

I paid 450 for a ltw flywheel and Sachs Sport clutch kit, which included a m20 starter.

Then there is the driveshaft, for some swaps you can use a BMW shaft, others require a custom shaft, this can cost from 75-500 dollars, depends on what you want done.

The Shifter is what I am in the dark about when using the m20 trans or the e36 m3 trans, mine was simple. That could cost a 100 dollars though.

This simple list addes up to over 3300 dollars, and I know I spent more than that,

When done correctly it is well worth the effort, and if, unlike me, you have a month or two to work on the car it can actually be fun.

[Brew]

I'm just not seeing how it costs so much...

Engine/harness/ecu...$1500
New gaskets, some other maintanance replacement parts for engine...$500-$800
Other Parts- exhaust, mounts, etc... $500-$800

I don't see how people get up past $5,000 with basic swaps.

I did my five speed swap, and bought almost every part brand new, hundereds of parts, and was only in at around $1500, after going through a bad tranny and having to purchase another one.

Believe me man, it adds up. Even half way through my swap, I was thinking I would pull it off for less than $1500. I just got the car on the road this past Sunday and I'm at about $3k. It was well worth it in my opinion, though.

[kylebes1]

To all those out there that have completed the swap already:

I am useing the e36 five speed trans and the e36 slave for the clutch. I was told by the Dealer parts guy, that used to have a s52 e30, that the e30 master would work for the e36 slave. I am not sure if there is still air in the system or what, but I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor and it still is not disengaging all the way.

BTW when you have the flywheel and cltuch assempbly together on the engine can the friction disc spin at all?

[Wes325]

To all those out there that have completed the swap already:

I am useing the e36 five speed trans and the e36 slave for the clutch. I was told by the Dealer parts guy, that used to have a s52 e30, that the e30 master would work for the e36 slave. I am not sure if there is still air in the system or what, but I have to push the pedal all the way to the floor and it still is not disengaging all the way.

BTW when you have the flywheel and cltuch assempbly together on the engine can the friction disc spin at all?

That definately sounds like you have air in the system or adjust the pedal which I highly doubt. I ran into the same problem 3 days ago minus the M50

[Bryson]

for the person who asked - you can use an e34 wiring harness although it is not 100% the same (pins), and it's shorter. It's long enough to get to the glove compartment though.
I prefer using it in my swaps, as you can put the diagnostic connector into a stock e30 placement.

I miss my car

[kylebes1]

The speed reference is a must!!

not only does it work the check engine light, for you guys that have them, it adds a few hundered to the rev limit.

I wired mine up and damn you should hear the thing howl at 6800 rpms, instead of 6200ish.

Ian was right about the thing and it works the same for US as Euros

[ian332isport]

The speed reference is a must!!

not only does it work the check engine light, for you guys that have them, it adds a few hundered to the rev limit.

I wired mine up and damn you should hear the thing howl at 6800 rpms, instead of 6200ish.

Ian was right about the thing and it works the same for US as Euros

Kyle, thats great news :up:

You should hear mine spinning at 7800 rpms :twisted:

Makes you wonder how many M50/S50 conversions are running around without the speed signal connected though :?

Ian.

[Ryan Stewart]

Kyle are you using stock software on your M50?

Because my speed input isnt attached but the S50 revs off the charts, sadly on 7200 for me :( . I have the turner software on there because they diabled EWS basically turning my DME into the early 413 with the Conforti tune. Maybe when they raise the revlimiter they didnt add this artificial ceiling.

Now i need to get a M3 tacho so I can track the higher revs. I got a 325i tacho now but it stops too soon. Cams and a hood and it should be pretty easy to get this thing under 10lb/hp.

Ian, how the hell do you launch these damn things without spinning the wheels? :twisted:

[kylebes1]

I hate both of you :)

i need to get the m3 tach as well, i suppose my engine is going almost 6800 rpm and the tach says 6300ish

i bet there are a few out there without it hooked up, but unless you take it to the red line it would not matter.

i do not know, but how every many extra rpms it freed up sound funny, like the VANOS chages again, but I thought it chages at 2500 and 5500.

And yes it is factory chip, I may get a new chip but the car may be headed for storage.

[Ryan Stewart]

Hate! Hate! Hate! :P

Ok, one last issue. Kyle has this too.

Running the E36 clutch slave cylinder with the E30 clutch master cylinder means the clutch pedal has to go way down to disengage the clutch. Its a brand spanking new clutch. Its been bled over and over again.

Ian or Gunni, anyone done the E36 M3 clutch master cylinder in the E30? Its being looked at as an option.

[ian332isport]

Hate! Hate! Hate! :P

Ok, one last issue. Kyle has this too.

Running the E36 clutch slave cylinder with the E30 clutch master cylinder means the clutch pedal has to go way down to disengage the clutch. Its a brand spanking new clutch. Its been bled over and over again.

Ian or Gunni, anyone done the E36 M3 clutch master cylinder in the E30? Its being looked at as an option.

Ryan,

My clutch also engages quite close to the floor. In the UK at least, it's 'feature' of the E36 M3, and a common complaint from E36 M3 owners.

While I was doing my conversion, I did check on the bore size etc of the E36 M3 clutch master cylinder. It's actually the same as the E30, so nothing to gain from using the E36 cylinder.

Something that is supposed to help on the E36, is a braided clutch hose (between the car body and the slave). I had one of these made when I did my conversion, so do not know if this is an improvement over the rubber hose.

Ian.

[Ryan Stewart]

well shiite. So there isnt a "proper solution" (had to use a custom line also).

Maybe i can just do something to lenghthen the distance from the shaft to the clutch pedal.