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Vanos M50 to 3.0L (Stu?)

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    #31
    Originally posted by z31maniac View Post
    My question is how much longer is the stroke of M54B30 crank compared to the S52?

    A way to get more than 3.1L out of an M20 possibly.....
    yeah, they're the same. the way to get more than 3.1l is with a larger than 86mm bore, but if it's worth it or not? who knows.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

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      #32
      -OK, how about this:

      stock s50us (3.0 @ 86x86) -240 hp
      m50 w/s50 cams, m54 internals (3.0 @ 84x86.9) ??? hp (stock m54 is 225hp iirc)

      -will the extra stroke make a big power difference? All other things being equal of course...
      1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

      Comment


        #33
        Originally posted by Jean View Post
        My goal is 240whp, if I have to feed it 91 that's fine too. Good luck or do-able?
        Go higher compression, GOOD cams, and good exhaust and you can do it.
        My 2.9L Build!

        Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
        There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

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          #34
          What CR and Cams should I shoot for?

          Thanks!
          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by nando View Post
            yeah, they're the same. the way to get more than 3.1l is with a larger than 86mm bore, but if it's worth it or not? who knows.
            I don't know what I thought I read in this thread that lead me to believe the M54 crank had a longer stroke than the S52.
            Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
            Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

            www.gutenparts.com
            One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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              #36
              Originally posted by PiercedE30 View Post
              Go higher compression, GOOD cams, and good exhaust and you can do it.
              I dont think you need cams to reach that. Stu made 235rwhp on his setup with stock cams.

              As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
              You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by Jean View Post
                What CR and Cams should I shoot for?

                Thanks!
                Well, I'm running 11.7:1 and can easily use 93 octane. I would say either 11.5 or 12.0.
                My 2.9L Build!

                Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

                Comment


                  #38
                  And to add another thread with good info - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...t=m50+s50+cams
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment


                    #39
                    -So much conflicting information...

                    -How can you safely shave the head/block to get such high compression, and not have cam timing issues?
                    1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Who said anything about shaving anything?
                      My 2.9L Build!

                      Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                      There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by PiercedE30 View Post
                        And chamber CC (if milled head).
                        -You did!
                        1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Originally posted by SpecM View Post
                          -You did!
                          hahaha
                          You got me. I think I meant just to check the chamber cc to make sure that everything was right if you deck the head.
                          My 2.9L Build!

                          Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                          There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by PiercedE30 View Post
                            hahaha
                            You got me. I think I meant just to check the chamber cc to make sure that everything was right if you deck the head.
                            -Haha yea I did...

                            -so anyone know the answer?
                            1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                            Comment


                              #44
                              There is a BMW spec. You won't run into cam timing issues though (think about how you time the cams, if you do it right, the timing does not depend on the distance from crank to cam) you will have valves hit pistons or pistons hit valves or whatever.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Yea. Set everything the way it should be and the slack in the chain will be taken up by the tensioner. Since the main timing chain doesn't directly drive both cams (separate chain between the cams) it shouldn't have any effect, unless you shave the block to the point where the are mere thousandths between the deck and the top of the coolant channels (literally have to take off close to 3/8 of an inch) and it is close to becoming an "open deck" block. But at that point you are already screwed. Since the valve seats are already fairly close to the surface of the head, at the edge of the combustion chamber, there really isn't that much you can take off of it to make a radical change in timing.
                                My 2.9L Build!

                                Originally posted by Ernest Hemingway
                                There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games.

                                Comment

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