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E34 harness, quick ID

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    E34 harness, quick ID

    I matched every plug on my e34 harness but couldn't get a positive match on these two plugs to any of my wiring references. I suspect it's transmission and maybe ASC. Can someone tell me fer sur what they are?

    I didn't get to pull the harness from the donor car.

    BTW, I kinda like the e34 harness compared to e36. The wiring box is smaller and it doesn't duplicate all the power cables that the e30 already has.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Anyone?

    Nobody has had an e34 harness and ID'd those two plugs?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by hoveringuy View Post
      Anyone?

      Nobody has had an e34 harness and ID'd those two plugs?
      I don't have the black plug, but mine is from a manual trans car. What year is yours from? I have a white plug like that, but with only 3 wires, no clue what it is. Mine is a 94.
      85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
      e30 restoration and V8 swap
      24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

      Comment


        #4
        I don't have a year on it. Only know that it's off a VANOS e34.

        Comment


          #5
          After tracking wires back to the ECU I can say that BOTH of the plugs are for the transmission.

          They're gone now.

          Along with Oil level wires and evap purge valve (to be replaced with a 68Ohm resistor).

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by hoveringuy View Post
            Along with Oil level wires and evap purge valve (to be replaced with a 68Ohm resistor).
            Any more info on this? I don't have a charcoal canister hooked up, and just have the evap connector hanging there. Should this not be left open?

            What's your opinion of properly deleting the charcoal canister?

            Also, do you need the purge valve to have a working canister system?

            My thing is, I have a visual emissions test where I'm at for inspection. So I do want to throw a canister on and hook it up when it comes time. And I wouldn't mind leaving it on, as long as I don't need to buy that damn $100 purge valve that I'm missing.
            85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
            e30 restoration and V8 swap
            24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

            Comment


              #7
              The system is designed to work with the purge valve. Fuel vapors collect in the charcoal cannister and when the DME senses that your engine has warmed-up and you are driving, it will open the purge valve so vapors get sucked in and burned.

              The good news is that OBD1 is easy to fool. A 100Ohm or so resistor wired in place of the valve (2Watt rating) will keep the check engine light at bay.

              On OBD2 the ECU actually looks for a corresponding "overly rich" signal from the Oxygen sensors and isn't as easily fooled.

              I don't have the charcoal cannister, my fuel tank vents to atmosphere in the back. Shame on me!
              Last edited by hoveringuy; 10-29-2008, 07:14 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                what's the part number on this charcoal canister?

                Comment


                  #9
                  i hooked up my stock e30 charcoal canister for my s50 swap. i did buy that stupid expensive purge valve though.
                  IG: @Baye30

                  FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I've been thinking about this and it doesn't make any sense to me. It also presented an opportunity...

                    In melding the two harnesses together I saw that there is a mondo resistor between the coil ground wires and the motor located in the coil splice box. The other end of these ground wires goes to coil ground and the ECU "ground" connection.

                    Why the h^ll do they put a resistor between "ground" and ground??

                    So I had an extra one of these resistors. They are about 250 Ohms rated for 2 Watts. It makes a perfect replacement for the Evap valve. I've been running it in place for a few days. You could wire it into your splice box and get rid of that external connection altogether.

                    An unrelated question: why are people swapping the cam sensor on OBD1 swaps? Is it because the connections are different (mail vs female)? I just did a gender change operation on mine and am wondering if that's the only issue.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hoveringuy View Post
                      An unrelated question: why are people swapping the cam sensor for OBD1 swaps? Is it because the connections are different (mail vs female)? I just did a gender change operation on mine and am wondering if that's the only issue.
                      Bump.

                      Why are OBD1 cam sensors necessary?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Would using the obd2 knock sensors be usable?

                        Also, you mentioned that the e36 harness has double of the power lines the e30 already has? Could you point that out for me? thanks!

                        SINdelle:E36 M3 5-Lug | 17x8 & 17x9 BBS RS | S52/ZF | 2.93LSD/3.5HFM/24lb Injectors/C&S Chip[B]SOLD[B]

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You cannot use the OBD2 knock sensors ( I looked into it) they are narrow band vs broad band or vice versa. They are different.

                          I swapped the plug on the OBD2 cam sensor to OBD1 and it's fine.

                          I am also close to a production Hall to VR conversion circuit. The circuit boards came back from Malaysia looking really nice. I'm waiting for one connector to come in and then I'll road test it on my car for a while.

                          The prototype is working GREAT!

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