If I were you, I wouldn't skimp on the oil pump. Just get a genuine one.
s52 rebuild cost... yikes!!!
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You can't get the oem pump cheap, they are all expensive and if you get a cheap one you'll end up replacing it again lol (ask Blunt about his s14 pump fiasco)Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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I'm not talking about for a gain. I'm talking about for piece of mind knowing that everything's new and this motor's gonna last for another 200k easy, rather than replacing all of the stuff related but not having that piece of mind.Extra money isn't worth the gain IMO. Block's already been honed anyway, too late.Comment
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/\ Big +1. just rebuild the whole motor and you will be alot more happy with it.Comment
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It still hasn't hit 90k let alone it's first 200k. It's getting all new bearing/bolts/gaskets/rings... I dont see why new pistons or rods would be necessary, esp at only 83k. I never hear of rods/pistons failing on motor, always hear of bearings/rings.
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I'm not saying buy new rods. Just heat treat the factory ones, and then bore out the cylinder and put new pistons in. Get the crosshash so its perfect like new so that way your new rings won't be seated on a worn out crosshash. Your doing everything except new pistons, so why not. And no the pistons themselves wont fail, its the rings that are something to worry about. And new rings on a worn cylinderwall isn't what I would personally do. Inside when your spinning at high rpm's its always safer to know everything is the same age and has the same wear, otherwise you can get increased wear from the old parts running with new parts.Comment
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Thanks Fred. Feel like I'm talking to a wall sometimes. Multiplex (not sure of his name on r3v, I'm pretty sure it's different on here - red e30 with boosted s52 and 'vette rear end) is actually the one putting my block back together for me. He has some experience doing it, so i'm hoping he already planned on the clean and mic..
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You mean bender. Also what are your building the motor for?Comment
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Yup, bender. Thanks.
Was originally going to go high compression N/A. Now I just want solid n/a with cams and bolt-on's, just because it seems often swappers choose FI later on down the road and going high compression now would be a bitch later. The gains of uppring compression now vs possibly dealing with FI issues later isn't worth it to me.
Motor is for non-daily driver. Car in my sig.
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Gotcha, didn't realize he got the block honed. Missed that part. My bad.Comment
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have you tried bmaparts? i just ordered pretty much most parts from them for a euro S50B30, they have been very helpfull and qucik todeliver the parts... lol for one chain guide in australia they wanted to charge me $900AUS.
$800 for a minor rebuild isnt too bad. you'll pay close to that for just ARP bolts for rods, mains and head if you were doing forced inductionComment


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