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s52 rebuild cost... yikes!!!

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    #16
    If I were you, I wouldn't skimp on the oil pump. Just get a genuine one.

    Originally posted by whysimon
    WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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      #17
      You can't get the oem pump cheap, they are all expensive and if you get a cheap one you'll end up replacing it again lol (ask Blunt about his s14 pump fiasco)
      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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        #18
        Extra money isn't worth the gain IMO. Block's already been honed anyway, too late.
        I'm not talking about for a gain. I'm talking about for piece of mind knowing that everything's new and this motor's gonna last for another 200k easy, rather than replacing all of the stuff related but not having that piece of mind.

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          #19
          /\ Big +1. just rebuild the whole motor and you will be alot more happy with it.

          www.gutenparts.com
          One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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            #20
            Originally posted by 318isbmw View Post
            I'm not talking about for a gain. I'm talking about for piece of mind knowing that everything's new and this motor's gonna last for another 200k easy, rather than replacing all of the stuff related but not having that piece of mind.
            It still hasn't hit 90k let alone it's first 200k. It's getting all new bearing/bolts/gaskets/rings... I dont see why new pistons or rods would be necessary, esp at only 83k. I never hear of rods/pistons failing on motor, always hear of bearings/rings.

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              #21
              Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
              It still hasn't hit 90k let alone it's first 200k. It's getting all new bearing/bolts/gaskets/rings... I dont see why new pistons or rods would be necessary, esp at only 83k. I never hear of rods/pistons failing on motor, always hear of bearings/rings.
              I'm not saying buy new rods. Just heat treat the factory ones, and then bore out the cylinder and put new pistons in. Get the crosshash so its perfect like new so that way your new rings won't be seated on a worn out crosshash. Your doing everything except new pistons, so why not. And no the pistons themselves wont fail, its the rings that are something to worry about. And new rings on a worn cylinderwall isn't what I would personally do. Inside when your spinning at high rpm's its always safer to know everything is the same age and has the same wear, otherwise you can get increased wear from the old parts running with new parts.

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                #22
                He said he already got the block honed, so the rings should break in properly. The factory rods should merely be cleaned and mic'd. I bet nothing will measure out of spec but measuring prior to reassembly can definitely prevent heartache later down the road.

                Originally posted by whysimon
                WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by FredK View Post
                  He said he already got the block honed, so the rings should break in properly. The factory rods should merely be cleaned and mic'd. I bet nothing will measure out of spec but measuring prior to reassembly can definitely prevent heartache later down the road.
                  Thanks Fred. Feel like I'm talking to a wall sometimes. Multiplex (not sure of his name on r3v, I'm pretty sure it's different on here - red e30 with boosted s52 and 'vette rear end) is actually the one putting my block back together for me. He has some experience doing it, so i'm hoping he already planned on the clean and mic..

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                    #24
                    You mean bender. Also what are your building the motor for?

                    www.gutenparts.com
                    One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
                      You mean bender. Also what are your building the motor for?
                      Yup, bender. Thanks.

                      Was originally going to go high compression N/A. Now I just want solid n/a with cams and bolt-on's, just because it seems often swappers choose FI later on down the road and going high compression now would be a bitch later. The gains of uppring compression now vs possibly dealing with FI issues later isn't worth it to me.

                      Motor is for non-daily driver. Car in my sig.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by FredK View Post
                        He said he already got the block honed, so the rings should break in properly. The factory rods should merely be cleaned and mic'd. I bet nothing will measure out of spec but measuring prior to reassembly can definitely prevent heartache later down the road.
                        Gotcha, didn't realize he got the block honed. Missed that part. My bad.

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                          #27
                          have you tried bmaparts? i just ordered pretty much most parts from them for a euro S50B30, they have been very helpfull and qucik todeliver the parts... lol for one chain guide in australia they wanted to charge me $900AUS.

                          $800 for a minor rebuild isnt too bad. you'll pay close to that for just ARP bolts for rods, mains and head if you were doing forced induction

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