^Notice the factory doesnt use solder anywhere
they crimp everything.
Fluctuating Idle Issue - S54 swap
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As a follow up to this...I figured out the problem. I spliced in a new connector for my O2 sensors and soldered the connections. Apparently that was the issue with the car going into limp mode. I cut out the soldered joints and used BMW butt connectors with heat shrink insulators. After changing them out, the O2 sensors activated and the car went into closed loop like it should. For the idle issue, I changed the TPS and adjusted the TBs. Once that was done, no more codes and the car runs like a champ.
I'm still amazed that a few simple solder connections could cause these issues.Leave a comment:
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As a follow up to this, I seem to have solved the idle issue (P1122, P1222, P0122, P0223, P0506) by replacing the TPS and adjusting the TBs. The car still goes into "safe" mode (won't go past 4000rpm). After connecting the car to a BMW scanner, the O2 sensors are not active. To the ECU, they are basically not there. I'm not sure why they wouldn't be reading.Leave a comment:
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Im having a similar issue. Appears I have a noisy TPS signal causing the computer to think I am pumping the pedal ad idle. Hopefully I can fix it tonight for Ofest.Leave a comment:
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These are the last codes:
P1122
P1222
P0506
P0030
P0050
P0036
P0223
P0122
P0056Leave a comment:
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For the moment, wrap a wire around and run it to ground? It's half assed, but it's a quick solution for testing.Leave a comment:
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I'm using this
Because the E30 sensor doesn't have a wire ground, and the pipe piece is insulated on both sides via the rubber o-rings, the sensor doesn't get grounded. For anyone that uses this, they should weld on a small stud to attach a ground wire.Leave a comment:
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It sounds like you're on the right track.For the coolant temp sensor on mine I just tapped the top of the thermostat housing. Use a 1/2 inch drill bit to make the hole then tap it with a 14x1.5mm tap (Snap-on has them). It's not thick metal so just be careful.
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It does seem like the issue is when it switches to closed loop or tries to at least.
The O2 sensors are located at the end of the header. The tune will not work with a MAF as per the tuner. I've also tried the ECU in a stock E46 M3 and the car did not experience the idle issues I have. The car runs the same whether the O2s are plugged in or not. I've changed the O2 sensors to new ones, verified they are going to the correct pins and are in fact the pre-cat sensors. I'm getting codes for O2 sensor heater circuit. I thought it may be a grounding issue, so I even put the grounds for the sensors directly to chassis ground and that did nothing.
Finally, what are you reading the codes with? Are you using a GT1, or other real diagnostic tool, or something more generic like an OBD scanner and/or Peake Tool? The Peake is better than an OBD scanner, but it is nothing like what you will get when you hook up a real diagnostic tool.Leave a comment:
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It does seem like the issue is when it switches to closed loop or tries to at least.
The O2 sensors are located at the end of the header. The tune will not work with a MAF as per the tuner. I've also tried the ECU in a stock E46 M3 and the car did not experience the idle issues I have. The car runs the same whether the O2s are plugged in or not. I've changed the O2 sensors to new ones, verified they are going to the correct pins and are in fact the pre-cat sensors. I'm getting codes for O2 sensor heater circuit. I thought it may be a grounding issue, so I even put the grounds for the sensors directly to chassis ground and that did nothing.Leave a comment:
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Where are your o2 sensors? Any exhaust leaks? The symptoms indicate that it is running poorly WHEN it switches to closed loop. Have you spoken to whomever tuned it? Have you tried running it with a MAF? (I know this means you have to swap manifolds, which is a bit of a pain, but would indicate whether or not you have an issue with the AN tune.)
Edit: have you tried running it with the O2s disconnected?Leave a comment:
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