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E30 M54 Swap Guide

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  • NvE30
    replied
    How did you get the LF-30 power steering pump and associate bracket to work? I could not mount it because the feed elbow that connects to the fluid supply from the reservoir hits the oil pan which causes the mounting holes not to line up with the ones on the oil filter housing

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  • ARealPerson
    replied
    Originally posted by Solarian View Post
    seems to me like they would be E30 parts ... just get hoses made for the M54 compressor, pressure up the system and that's that.
    Bingo. That's what I did. Pulled the hard lines from the e30 compressor and the m54 compressor and a radiator shop mated them up. Plumbed through a new e30 dryer.

    Unless you're doing your own brazing, it's best to bring the car to the shop doing the work so they can take appropriate measurements. Hard lines don't conform!

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  • Solarian
    replied
    Mmm, seems to me like they would be E30 parts. Although I'm in a bit different situation since my E30 is already converted to R134a, so I'm expecting to just get hoses made for the M54 compressor, pressure up the system and that's that.

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  • gespinal0301
    replied
    I had a question about the AC conversion. I want to assume that the pressure switch and dryer/receiver came from the donor. Also, the o-rings would need to be converted over to viton. I'm researching to do this swap on an e28 so a lot of the same issues carry over

    Leave a comment:


  • Solarian
    replied
    I'm looking into having my idle rpm increased permanently to account for the AC kicking on. I figure it'll be only driven in warm weather anyway, so I'll be using the AC often, and people have done the increased rpm as a fix to lightweight flywheel rattle already.

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  • Staszek
    replied
    Originally posted by Sammy Sandbag View Post
    What are y'all doing about AC fans and compressor kicking on?

    gpeterson CAN box don't appear to be available, and from reading they seemed to have lots of issues.
    Love to hear this too since I am having a hard time with my CAN

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  • CavemanGB
    replied
    Did your motor originally an ms54.1 dme/harness? I see the reference when you were wiring your coils and was curious

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  • Sammy Sandbag
    replied
    What are y'all doing about AC fans and compressor kicking on?

    gpeterson CAN box don't appear to be available, and from reading they seemed to have lots of issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by redneckvtek View Post
    That fitting is $20, and you need two.

    This is the OEM BMW fuel line, which avoids POS dorman stuff.
    BMW Fuel Line - Genuine BMW 16122229410
    It's $16 from summit and that's a package of TWO.

    Dorman is hardly a POS manufacturer.

    The quick connect fitting is *NOT* a hose barb. Clamping a rubber hose onto it may "work", but you run the risk of damaging the inner lining of the hose because, well, it's not a hose barb.

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  • redneckvtek
    replied
    Coolant Expansion Tank:


    I used this on my first M54 swap car. It is a pure track car with no IHKA, so no heater hoses. It works OK, but has to be twisted awkwardly in places to avoid abrasion on the alternator and the frame rail pinch weld.
    This is a E46 part. **Water pipe to lower expansion tank**
    PN 11531436410






    I'm planning on using it again for my current build with IHKA, and also using Jordan's specified hose PN 64216951946 to connect from a T or Y to the lower heater core connector.



    I am still searching for an affordable source for the T or Y, and the upper heater core connector to the engine.

    Leave a comment:


  • redneckvtek
    replied
    Update on cooling system setup.


    Radiator Hoses:
    When using the "late" e30 radiator, the following hose can be cut in half to provide both the Upper and Lower sections. You will still need qty 2 quick disconnects to adapt to the thermostat.

    Gates 21900 Lower Radiator Hose
    Click image for larger version  Name:	21HCVY9H4YL.__AC_QL70_ML2_.jpg Views:	0 Size:	4.6 KB ID:	9948829
    Fitment is a 2 wheel drive 1991 Toyota Previa


    I used the quick connects off of some e46 hoses I ordered by mistake.


    The hole for the radiator exit temperature sender on this hose is too large to thread for the e30 gauge's sending unit safely. The hole measures 13.5mm and the sending unit is M14 threads with a average diameter in the 13.8mm range. I dont trust plastic that much so I don't recommend this hose. This is the stock e46 lower hose.
    Click image for larger version  Name:	869330_x600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	24.0 KB ID:	9948832


    You can also use the E39 UPPER hose (PN 11531705223) which has a hole for bleeding coolant. I used this hose in my first build (I did not install the OE temp gauge). This hose will require you to source another straight-through quick disconnect.

    I think you can tap this one for the E30 sending unit. The OD of the bleed screw boss is 16mm
    Click image for larger version  Name:	1116968_x600.jpg Views:	0 Size:	23.5 KB ID:	9948831


    The other option is to use a coolant gauge adapter like this:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	a856abcc-39a2-4031-ad24-84bacca9e806.jpg Views:	0 Size:	16.0 KB ID:	9948828
    I didn't specify a size for that, because YOU will have to determine it for yourself. Some hoses are bigger at the ends and smaller in the middle. Some are consistently sized. Pick the size that matches your specific hose.

    Install it in the UPPER radiator hose. The m54 coolant is leaving the block and headed to the radiator through this hose, which is where you want to capture temperature.
    If you have an aftermarket water temperature gauge, this is the best solution for its sending unit, as there is no other place in the cylinder head to install it. When the thermostat is closed, water will still flow through the upper radiator hose, then out the small hose to the overflow tank, then back to the engine.





    Jordan also mentioned this in his build thread, You can use this hose for the lower hose without any changes required. I have not tried this personally so I cannot verify.

    11 53 1 716 642



    So thats the radiator hoses sorted, with multiple options depending on what you have on hand and how your car is setup.
    Last edited by redneckvtek; 09-04-2020, 07:10 PM.

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  • Motheye99
    replied
    I haven't ordered that specific hose for my swap for the exact same reason. really all you need is the QD that goes to the block and maybe 6in of rubber hose after it. Then a Y shaped connector and more hose.

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  • redneckvtek
    replied
    The coolant hose Jordan used to go from the heater core lower port on the firewall to the plastic tube running under the intake manifold is too expensive now to be a good option for me. Has anyone else found a good alternative?
    It looks like all you need is a relatively "S" shaped hose of the correct diameter


    PN 17127548223 is currently approx $120 from the cheapest online source I can find.


    Click image for larger version  Name:	hoses_zpsdd2nincz.jpg Views:	0 Size:	76.7 KB ID:	9948575


    Here is another photo borrowed from the original build thread showing the "y" which is stated to come from an E90. It doesn't appear to be the same "y" in the specified PN. I will continue to research tomorrow.

    Click image for larger version

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ID:	9948582
    Last edited by redneckvtek; 09-01-2020, 08:59 PM.

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  • redneckvtek
    replied
    Originally posted by Motheye99 View Post
    Couldn't you also try using the E46 330i fuel filter and regulator. Doesn't it take a vacuum line from the engine? besides fitment is there any reason this wouldn't work?

    Yes, that works just fine. Issue is that it doesnt fit against the frame rail well in a e30 (frame rail is smaller than the OD of the filter/regulator combo), the fuel hardline would need to be cut, it would be in a really vulnerable spot, etc.

    That filter is really long and wouldn't fit near the tank where the late cars filters go.
    It also doesnt fit under the brake booster well where the early cars filters were. It just looks awkward almost anywhere in the engine bay.

    Also, that vacuum line is not critical. the vac line is ONLY for recapture of fuel if the diaphragm in the FPR ruptures. I have never heard of that happening. The FPR is not variable based on vac or anything like that, and will be perfectly happy making 3.5bar of fuel pressure with that nipple open to atmosphere.

    Leave a comment:


  • Motheye99
    replied
    Couldn't you also try using the E46 330i fuel filter and regulator. Doesn't it take a vacuum line from the engine? besides fitment is there any reason this wouldn't work?

    Leave a comment:

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