N52 > e30 CAD templates for oil pan, engine arms, and other fun parts
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That's the problem.... there was never a "standard" position.Initially, I tried to modify the arms without cutting and welding. Then, once I discovered that I couldn't move the motor back as far as previously implied.... The window of rearward engine movement was then less than 1 inch. The machined adapter that uses the Garagistic poly mount is what came next. With the machined adapter, the arms do not have to be modified. The main difference between my car and yours at this point relating to this area, is my need for a fan behind radiator. The machined adapters move the engine back 1/2", giving enough space to fit a Spal 16" fan.
I believe you are the first to use stock arms and the motor mounts you found. Your engine sits 1/2" forward from mine and about the same height.Leave a comment:
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Initially, I tried to modify the arms without cutting and welding. Then, once I discovered that I couldn't move the motor back as far as previously implied.... The window of rearward engine movement was then less than 1 inch. The machined adapter that uses the Garagistic poly mount is what came next. With the machined adapter, the arms do not have to be modified. The main difference between my car and yours at this point relating to this area, is my need for a fan behind radiator. The machined adapters move the engine back 1/2", giving enough space to fit a Spal 16" fan.
I believe you are the first to use stock arms and the motor mounts you found. Your engine sits 1/2" forward from mine and about the same height.Leave a comment:
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Nothing new about the Z4 arms. The cool kids were doing that last year.... ;-)Leave a comment:
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Feel free to continue any discussion of the files in the first post here, but here's a new thread to talk about a Rev2 oil pan to better coordinate with hoveringuy's new Z4 arm system.Leave a comment:
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I know these pans sit higher than most swap pans, but a skidplate would be some nice added insurance at some point I think.
Since these pans are kind of one-offs and not *in stock* so to speak.
Maybe one on the market already would fit.Leave a comment:
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I forget what gauge I used for the pan material, but I went a bit thicker than hubcapboy. 14 Ga? I had an "off"at the track and bashed it pretty good re-entering the track and it was nothing but a thing.
I also recommend a decent-sized bender, something that will crush your fingers if you're not careful kind of thing. Not the Harbor Freight variety. you want nice, crisp bends. Mine fit together like a perfect 3-D puzzle.Leave a comment:
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I was planning to use sendcutsend, i have had good luck with them for my work, no bends yet though. They can take the DWG format originally posted, but you have to separate out each individual part, or at least only several parts in the same thickness.(You will have to manipulate the DWG somehow, is what i am trying to say.)
I can probably do something like this at some point, maybe i will put together a drawing package that can be uploaded by someone with no CAD experience.Leave a comment:
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I have been hearing decent things about Sendcutsend.com lately for online metal cutting & bending. I know you have said you don't have any interest in turning this into a business but have you looked into having a file format they can support?
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I actually measured at the crank pulley, so the pan is probably 10mm higher at the rack. I also don't know if the poly mounts will settle a bit, but I doubt it.
4qts drains and I suppose there's some trapped.
Hoveringuy, I'm the good-looking one and hubcapboy is the smart one....Leave a comment:
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I am getting "hoveringuy" hubcapboy" confused lol.
1/8", yeah, sortof. It's 1/8" to the very edge of the little round thing that protrudes out of the rack (circled). It's closer to 3/4" to the body of the rest of the rack. That corner could easily be filed-down another 1/8" and/or the pan get some relief there with a ball peen, or the rack mounting hole could be moved back a tiny bit.
I didn't do any of those, the rack is bolted to the subframe that's rigidly mounted to the engine so they mostly move together. If, under very heavy acceleration the engine were to touch the pan it's a steel pan. If it does touch at some point I'll clearance a bit.
The steel pan is really tough. I had an "off" at the track and bashed it a bit re-entering. It scraped, but the angled front did exactly what it was supposed to do which kept an edge from catching. It's a good design, plus now I'm 14mm higher!
I hold just a tad over 4qts. I think an M20 is slightly more than that, but not much.
So, now your pan is sitting 14mm higher than originally?
Are you saying your total oil capacity is 4 qts? i guess another qt sits in the filter housing assembly etc.Leave a comment:
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1/8", yeah, sortof. It's 1/8" to the very edge of the little round thing that protrudes out of the rack (circled). It's closer to 3/4" to the body of the rest of the rack. That corner could easily be filed-down another 1/8" and/or the pan get some relief there with a ball peen, or the rack mounting hole could be moved back a tiny bit.
I didn't do any of those, the rack is bolted to the subframe that's rigidly mounted to the engine so they mostly move together. If, under very heavy acceleration the engine were to touch the pan it's a steel pan. If it does touch at some point I'll clearance a bit.
The steel pan is really tough. I had an "off" at the track and bashed it a bit re-entering. It scraped, but the angled front did exactly what it was supposed to do which kept an edge from catching. It's a good design, plus now I'm 14mm higher!
I hold just a tad over 4qts. I think an M20 is slightly more than that, but not much.
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Hubcapboy is claiming there in only about 1/8" room with the engine positioned with the new arms, I figure i should probably give it a bit more room.
The work you have done on this is huge by the way, I probably wouldn't be attempting this swap otherwise
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