Hi all,
I have been searching for the AKG Motorsport poly mounts, but they seem out of stock and on backorder everywhere.
Are there any alternatives? I would rather not use the aluminium version of the AKG mounts.
N52 engine mounting (Z4 arms)
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What transmission did you used was it the stock 90
manual transmission that came with the N52?Leave a comment:
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I'm on rubber mounts. The Noise, Vibration, Harshness is not as good as E90 hydro mounts, but it's not bad like poly, either.Leave a comment:
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Hey guys I'm in the early stages of planning my N52 engine swap. I want to create a bit of a cruiser - something that's got plenty of power but not going to rattle me to pieces. Do you think that there is enough room to run a rubber engine mount with this set up? CheersLeave a comment:
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Here is a comparison of the driver's side mounts on the subframe.
Here are the crankshaft to frame rail measurements. Much better!
The transmission mount lifted right up onto its studs, without a fight. If you use these AKG transmission mounts you will have to enlarge the holes in the mount and the ears on the transmission.
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I would recommend using the AKG 24v mounts with this swap. I don't know what other brands may work but I know for sure that the Revshift ones do not, they will shift the front of the engine too far towards the intake side.
Here are the measurements after installing them.
The crank is much closer to the driver's frame rail and I had to pry the transmission quite a bit to get it mounted.
AKG poly mounts are not available for about 6 weeks so I ordered aluminum ones to use for mocking exhaust stuff up. AKG told me that the geometry is the same between the two.
They are symmetrical, the revshift ones are not.
Here is the driver's side revshift compared to the AKG.
Here is the passenger side comparison.
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Yep, Seattle location. I had one go-back issue where the rear yoke wasn't e30 and needed to be turned. The nice thing is that when I moved the engine back that little bit they shortened the shaft and rebalanced for pretty cheap. (stock shafts can't be shortened, I guess..)
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Did you use NW Driveline? If so, what location? I've had less than stellar results with the Seattle location...Leave a comment:
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yep, stock subframe. I had run a custom subframe for the my rear sump M54 and it was kind of a pain, I wanted to keep this as stock as possible.Hi there,
Assuming we're using the stock subframe with E85 Z4 engine arms, a GS6-17 transmission (for the g260-like fit)... what is the combo of OE driveshafts that make it all work together? The more off-the-shelf parts this swap can use the more tolerable this swap will be for folks.
I saw in another post that the Tesla i-booster works with the 3 stage intake manifold using the E85 mounting arms, so it seems like this is piecing together better and better!
I have heard that an E36M automatic front section is the ticket. I just had a shaft fabricated for $600 from scratch. Came with new joints, and CSB, fully balanced. Just wasn't worth piecing used shafts together but I know that can be done.Leave a comment:
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Hi there,
Assuming we're using the stock subframe with E85 Z4 engine arms, a GS6-17 transmission (for the g260-like fit)... what is the combo of OE driveshafts that make it all work together? The more off-the-shelf parts this swap can use the more tolerable this swap will be for folks.
I saw in another post that the Tesla i-booster works with the 3 stage intake manifold using the E85 mounting arms, so it seems like this is piecing together better and better!Leave a comment:
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They look like good quality. The pro is that they're immediately available and they use a readily available M20 mount.Regarding engine mounts... What are the pros/cons of using Frank's (Garageaholic) mounts for engine and trans?
That was going to be my solution. Reassessing with these posts on Z4 options.
Only question for me would be how the engine position compares to the Z4 mount arms but I suspect its probably really close.
Go for it!
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