Another N52 swap attempt!

[Striker01]

I thought once the engine was in things would start to get easier. I was wrong and am really learning no matter how much I thought I had figured out, I still should've spent more time on the planning side. I guess for my first swap I shouldn't expect anything to go smooth.

RHD master cylinder showed up and I got the brake lines made, only to realize that they interfere with the power steering pump reservoir, so I will hopefully get those re-made this weekend. My fuel line won't work, It prevents the crab box from mounting to the intake manifold. It's a really tight squeeze between it and the engine arm. Waiting on a quick connect with a 90 degree AN fitting to hopefully get that sorted.

When I planned the pressure regulator mount I made sure it wouldn't interfere with the charcoal canister but didn't even think about the master cylinder or intake boot so I got a big surprise when I went to mount it. It was too tall to fit under the master cylinder and in it's normal spot looks like it will be in the way of the intake boot off the throttle body.

I shortened it about an inch and flipped the bracket upside down to make a little more space. The hose routing as pictured here isn't ideal, it rubs between the booster and intake manifold so I now have it ran between the brake booster and inner fender.

[Striker01]

I heard that these manual transmissions that come on N52 engines have a problem with 1st gear synchronizers, once it wears out it pops out of first gear and it is something that you can't even fix

I haven't read anything about that. I know hoveringuy has been working his hard car for a couple years and I don't think he's had any transmission issues.

[DesertBMW]

I heard that these manual transmissions that come on N52 engines have a problem with 1st gear synchronizers, once it wears out it pops out of first gear and it is something that you can't even fix

[Striker01]

I just capped it. It's lubricated and everything. I looked at removing the entire assembly but it's integral with the oil pump drive so would be pretty hard to actually remove.

Thanks.

[hoveringuy]

LMAO!!!

No, I didn't. Thought the consensus was to just cap it and let it be?!

I just capped it. It's lubricated and everything. I looked at removing the entire assembly but it's integral with the oil pump drive so would be pretty hard to actually remove.

[Striker01]

“Capped the vacuum pump with an extra bedpan bolt, cut down, and clamp. Hopefully this will be sufficient.”

Did you take the vane out of the pump, or is this thing gonna look like it was trying to see the Titanic?


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LMAO!!!

No, I didn't. Thought the consensus was to just cap it and let it be?!

[adam.nonis]

“Capped the vacuum pump with an extra bedpan bolt, cut down, and clamp. Hopefully this will be sufficient.”

Did you take the vane out of the pump, or is this thing gonna look like it was trying to see the Titanic?


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[sydmonster]

Thank you for the honest and frankly detailed updates!!

[Striker01]

More progress today. Carrier and shift linkage are shortened. Amazing how little has changed on BMWs on the last 30 years. It looks like the SSK I have will work in this car, with the exception of the DSSR. The E30 shift joint on back of the transmission will fit on this transmission, the E90 one is just a little wider and wouldn't fit into my DSSR, but with the bigger guibo I need the one with the kink in it.



As proven before, about 1/2" almost centers it up.



Worked the engine arm with the finger sander and fuel line is now installed with plenty of clearance.



Capped the vacuum pump with an extra bedpan bolt, cut down, and clamp. Hopefully this will be sufficient.



Master cylinder with ports on the correct side arrived last night. Going to be fun getting the lines bent correctly and installed but hopefully I only have to do it once. I was planning on using the car's original reservoir but it seems like quite a bit of work since the spacing between the master and reservoir are so different. Ordered the 2002 one and some hose, hopefully will work with my original cap.

[Striker01]

Got the engine installed today, only took one trip to Harbor Freight for an engine lift jack that crapped out!!

Replaced all the brake hard lines and added rear subframe and diff bushings to match the engine/transmission mounts. I don't really dig the green brake fittings but I didn't want to use stainless in the aluminum and I had a hard time finding M10 bubble fittings for 3/16th line. Still need to finish up the master cylinder lines but waiting on a RHD tesla master I found for a decent price.

Bay assembled and ready for install.



Finally in!!



Tons of room as posted before, with the ibooster. About 11mm at it's closest point to the 3 stage intake.



Mis-judged my fuel regulator mount. AN fitting is longer than I anticipated, going to have to shave the edge of the engine arm a little bit. Will require bolting the mount on after the fuel line is connected.



No I can start chipping away at wiring, button up the exhaust and modify the shift carrier. I think I'm going to just run AN line for the coolant line that needs to route over to the driver's side, less fabrication that way.

[Striker01]

Finally calling the engine bay good enough. Tried mixed to match cans twice and ended up sanding it back down both times, looked horrible. Got a paint gun and some real paint to try for the third time. Engine bay probably isn't the best place to learn how to spray with a gun but it turned out better than the rattle can jobs. Ended up with a couple runs and a little clearcoat sagging but overall I think it turned out decent. Let it cure for a few days and then on to re-assembly. Excited the job I was dreading the most is done. Next update will be N52 related, I promise.

[Striker01]

How old are the cans?

I use the spraymax version, and it’ll look like that if a popped can sets around too long.

Thanks for the reply. Can was new and used immediately after mixing. I had better luck with round two, maybe 4-5" from the panels and moving slower with my sweeps. Laid down much better but still some overspray, not sure it can be avoided with all the flat surfaces in the bay. I just hope the paint wont setup as fast.

[moatilliatta]

How old are the cans?

I use the spraymax version, and it’ll look like that if a popped can sets around too long.

[Striker01]

This is the only rust I thought I had to address in the engine bay.



Not pretty but patched.



Next was prep for Mastercoat, 2 coats of that and some filler for my poor metal work. Random question, has anyone else noticed the shock towers are wavy or is just my car? Both need a little filler to smooth.

You can see where the frame rails were mangled before.



Did one more coat of mastercoat and replaced a bunch of seam sealer last night. Got home today eager to get epoxy primer on and went back quite a few steps. It was hot and kinda muggy and I probably should've been closer to my work but I ended up messing up the primer process. It laid down super fuzzy and looks like crap. I'll get some red scotch brite pads tomorrow, hopefully I can get it smooth enough to prime again. I do not want to sand it again, it took forever.



It all looks like this up close. I'm open for any tips, used Eastwood 2k Epoxy cans. Planning to try and apply it heavier, I'd rather smooth a possible run than have to sand the entire thing again.

[Striker01]

I feel like I may be in the wrong forum now, this swap has turned into quite the project. I think I'm finally on the last big step before getting this engine in for good!

I got the parts to adapt the pressure regulator and got it back from plating, Thanks for saving me looking up stuff Steve!



Sent off my gauges to Bavrest for a makeover, had some coolant and fuel gauge issues. While it was there I went ahead and did an 8k tach, Adam's intake has me thinking of future ideas! Came back looking awesome, sorry for the picture, don't want to remove the plastic until its back in.



I had to wait a couple months for mastercoat permanent rust sealer to come back in stock. I've had good luck with it and it doesn't require a rinse after acid etching.

While I was waiting on that I started prepping the engine bay. Scuffed the whole thing with 220 and unfortunately found more rust in the process. Hindsight, I should've done this while the interior was out. I'm not pulling it back out so it all got converted, mastercoated and seam sealed. I have to stop digging or this project will never end, I just want to enjoy the car again.

This hole was the only one I found that perforated completely.



More at the battery post attachment.



I stripped out all the seam sealer I could in the cowl; sanded, etched, primed, seam sealed and painted. Hopefully it lasts another 30 years.

The last bit was here where the seam sealer failed under the fuse box, there is damage to both front frame rails and a crease under the fuse box from a past life collision, thinking that may be what caused it.
Also got rid of some brackets on the fender.


I acid treated the area and coated the inside of both frame rails with Eastwood chassis stuff before I started on the bay.