325ix engine removal technique

[lefthookz]

Now that I've rebuilt my suspension and rear end, I'd like to tackle all the remaining leaks - head gasket, transmission, and transfer case. Seems like the optimal thing to do is unbolt the entire drivetrain from the car and lift up the front end using my engine hoist, which would make access to all these things a lot easier for resealing. What are you guys doing? Are people pulling everything out through the top with the hood removed? How does that work with the transfer case, do you remove that first, from underneath? Looking forward to your input.

[CrazyPrime]

In the past I have always removed the transfercase from underneath and then pull the engine and transmission as one. I have seen guys drop the subframe and keep everything on it. I can't attest for if that is easier or not because I've always went out the hood. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[E30andy]

If you have a lift dropping everything out the bottom is easiest, if you dont then it has to come out the top after removing the transfer case.

[lefthookz]

I don't have a lift, but have people been successful lifting the front of the car high enough with some kind of hoist/jack stands combo to pull the motor/trans from below? Wondering if anyone has come up with a creative solution there. I've only ever pulled engines from the top of the bay before, and I'm comfortable with that but this will be my first time pulling my iX motor so just looking at all my options.

[lefthookz]

Here's an interesting thing: https://www.kwik-lift.com/product/kw...-base-package/

This is tempting because someone is selling one locally for $500. Note the cross bar for locating jackstands on top of the existing lift height.

[boleman42]

In the past I have always removed the transfercase from underneath and then pull the engine and transmission as one. I have seen guys drop the subframe and keep everything on it. I can't attest for if that is easier or not because I've always went out the hood. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Will the motor not fit out from the top with the transfer case still attached?

This is my first time working on an e30. I'm assembling a motor and need to pull the old one out. It looks complicated with the front axles, etc.

[WinterTimeCold]

Will the motor not fit out from the top with the transfer case still attached?

This is my first time working on an e30. I'm assembling a motor and need to pull the old one out. It looks complicated with the front axles, etc.

It will fit, but you will need to pull it out at a pretty aggressive angle, which means you will need a lot of room underneath.

The easiest path is to unbolt transmission and the transfercase together. I didn't have the right wrench to remove just the transfercase...
Here is what I recommend:

1. Unbolt driveshaft
2. Unbolt shift linkage and remove shifter
3. (Optional) hoist the engine and unbolt the engine mounts and lower the engine a bit to create more space to access the transmission bolts. Be careful with this, the engine might swing when you remove the transmission.
4. Torx + long set of extensions to remove the transmission bolts.
5. Pull the transmission - it should come out without issue. If you have a transmission dolly, it would help.

For removing and installing the engine back, if I were to do it again, I would also unbolt the front subframe with the steering rack for easier time.
Oh yeah get some kind of tool to remove the front driveshafts, don't hammer them out! Look into this: https://www.rtsauto.com/how-to-chang...ing-on-an-e30/

Good luck!

[nando]

I did it from the top all in one go. Next time, I'll probably drop it out the bottom.
http://www.325ix.com/pics/2006/strok...6/MVC-687F.JPG

I had the subframe off for both out and in - plenty of room that way, but you need a load leveler and you won't be able to do it indoors if your garage height isn't like 10ft. But there's really no reason you need to separate the trans from the engine, if you're pulling them both out anyway it seems like less work to just do them both at the same time.

BTW without the engine, hood, or front suspension/subframe, there's not much weight in the car. you could almost lift it by hand. so getting enough height isn't much of a problem. I also had the rear wheels up on ramps (I don't like pivoting the car on jackstands!)

[packratbimmer]

A good compromise is to use longer bolts for the subframe. Good opportunity to check out and lube the steering knuckle. I have used bolts as long as the pedal cluster through-bolt for jobs. Support the subframe, replace the stock bolts with longer ones and then partially lower everything. Mega clearance everywhere. When finished, the long bolts act as guide pins for easy alignment.

[WinterTimeCold]

I did it from the top all in one go. Next time, I'll probably drop it out the bottom.
http://www.325ix.com/pics/2006/strok...6/MVC-687F.JPG

I had the subframe off for both out and in - plenty of room that way, but you need a load leveler and you won't be able to do it indoors if your garage height isn't like 10ft. But there's really no reason you need to separate the trans from the engine, if you're pulling them both out anyway it seems like less work to just do them both at the same time.

BTW without the engine, hood, or front suspension/subframe, there's not much weight in the car. you could almost lift it by hand. so getting enough height isn't much of a problem. I also had the rear wheels up on ramps (I don't like pivoting the car on jackstands!)

I always wanted to drop it from the bottom, but I don't understand how you'd manage that on jackstands. So you would lower the engine + trans + TC on a dolly, but how do you lift the car high enough to clear the engine?

[nando]

With a chain hoist or something similar. Like I said, it's really light with everything removed from the front. You'd just need to attach it without damaging anything. Could probably remove the bumper and attach it to the frame rail directly (chain/bolts, spreader bar, etc).

I wouldn't use jackstands, at least not while picking up the car. you don't want to pivot on them, the pads are too small and it could slip off or tip over. Better to have the rear tires up on blocks or ramps. Just as long as they are big and stable enough not to move and you can block the tires from rolling. It's pretty easy to build something safe out of 2X4s too.

[boleman42]

I did it from the top all in one go. Next time, I'll probably drop it out the bottom.
http://www.325ix.com/pics/2006/strok...6/MVC-687F.JPG

I had the subframe off for both out and in - plenty of room that way, but you need a load leveler and you won't be able to do it indoors if your garage height isn't like 10ft. But there's really no reason you need to separate the trans from the engine, if you're pulling them both out anyway it seems like less work to just do them both at the same time.

BTW without the engine, hood, or front suspension/subframe, there's not much weight in the car. you could almost lift it by hand. so getting enough height isn't much of a problem. I also had the rear wheels up on ramps (I don't like pivoting the car on jackstands!)

Oh my, I didn't think about the height of my garage ceiling. It's only 8 feet.

I'm having a bear of a time unbolting the round rubber mount from the transmission to the cross bar underneath the car. I'm starting to wonder if dropping it below would be a better choice.

Here's new question to the group - My transmission is just fine. I'm "only" replacing the engine (and clutch, etc.). The Bentley manual is giving me crazy advice. it says, remove the transmission first, then pull the motor. WTF? The question then is, do I need to remove the tranny? It looks to be near impossible to reach the torx bolts on the bell housing. That's why I figured I'd remove the motor and transmission at the same time. Should I just pull the motor?

[nando]

you don't need to remove that. just support the transmission/transferase, and unbolt the bracket from the body of the car. you can remove the bolt later (or leave it if it won't come out, lol).

My plan for when I finally build a new engine is to drop everything onto a dolly. Then attach a chain hoist to the front of the car, and lift it from the garage ceiling. I have a 14" beam that supports the deck above to attach to, then I can just roll the old engine out and roll the new one back in.

[boleman42]

I've got the engine and tranny unbolted but the transmission won't drop down very far. it seem I'm hitting the subrame in front and firewall in back. I am thinking hard about dropping the subframe now

[boleman42]

Thought I'd post an update. I couldn't get it out the top - just seemed be stuck. So, I removed the subframe and dropped the motor to the ground, then lifted the car up and slid the motor and trans out to the side.

I rebuilt another motor and installed it from the bottom. It took a couple of different tactics. i ended up bolting the motor to the sub frame and then lifting it all into place.

I started the car this week and it seems to run well. I haven't driven it yet because I haven't put all of the front end back together - this weekend.