iX wheel thread
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Im using 215/45-17 on mine, would have used 40 instead if I didn't really need the biggest tire I could fit to help the gearing as much as possible :P -
Thanks for that. Got the flares off and yes all the clips broke. I assume once I roll them the holes underneath the lip will be useless as the plastic will need to be trimmed away anyway, correct? I will still use the holes on the outside of the fender to mount them back on right? I see what you mean about that tape, its pretty strong.I don't think you will damage the fender flares, but expect to replace all of the clips, especially on the sideskirts.
When you roll the rear fenders, you also have to trim the plastic part underneath of the flares. The rivets will no longer do anything but the 3M double sided tape is more than strong enough to hold it on. In fact, once you get most of the clips off, the tape is mostly what will hold everything together.
as far as tires, you can fix your rubbing by rolling the fenders, but if you go with wider tires (that will be even taller now, the profile is a percentage, not a fixed value), it will probably still rub.
No need to roll the fronts. On my car I had to zip tie the brake ducts to the fender liners, because the tires would rub on the liners and the ducts would pop out, but that was mostly with the 235s.
As far as tires, I have been looking at some calculators to compare sizes.
The current set up: 215/45/17 sidewall height= 3.81 rev/mi= 819.7
Considering : 225/40/17 3.54 837.7
225/45/17 3.99 808
Stock: 205/55/15 4.44 845.1
Still trying to decide between the 40 or 45's in the 225 width.
On one hand the 40 is closer in revs/mi as stock so my speedo will be more accurate again, but shorter sidewall than my current set up which means it may not rub but then again I don't want lower profile tires.
I think the 45's might look better and be less jarring over bumps but I'm afraid they might rub even if I roll the fenders.
Someone push me in the right direction.Leave a comment:
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I don't think you will damage the fender flares, but expect to replace all of the clips, especially on the sideskirts.
When you roll the rear fenders, you also have to trim the plastic part underneath of the flares. The rivets will no longer do anything but the 3M double sided tape is more than strong enough to hold it on. In fact, once you get most of the clips off, the tape is mostly what will hold everything together.
as far as tires, you can fix your rubbing by rolling the fenders, but if you go with wider tires (that will be even taller now, the profile is a percentage, not a fixed value), it will probably still rub.
No need to roll the fronts. On my car I had to zip tie the brake ducts to the fender liners, because the tires would rub on the liners and the ducts would pop out, but that was mostly with the 235s.Leave a comment:
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Paging Nando:
Sorry if this is in here somewhere but I did not see it.
Current set up: BBS RK 17x7 ET42 8mm spacers all around, 215/45/17 tires
Mostly pleased with this set up cause 40's look too rubber bandish and 45's look much better and only throw my speedo off by a couple MPH's so I don't care. Problem is that with H&R sports, Luke box/amps/sub and especially with people in the back I get some rubbing in the rear over dips.
The car is going under the knife next month for all new paint and body repair so I am about to roll the fenders just a little bit to subdue the rubbing.
However, now I'm wondering if I can roll just a bit more and comfortably fit some 225/45(or 40's depending what works best) under there that would work just fine. I think it would look and handle a bit better with wider tires and I would like to have roughly the same sidewall height as my current set up. It would be nice to have the speedo accurate again too but I'm not too concerned. Would I need to roll the fronts to fit 225's as well?
Also, whats the best way to get the fender flares off without tearing them up?Last edited by aaron325ix; 03-28-2016, 07:32 PM.Leave a comment:
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And here is few pics, to show that front caliber rack issue. First pics are whit out adapter
At back i would want like 9" wide, and ET should be more that way, so those back rims have more lip, maybe ET 0
At front if can turn, also 9" wide ET shoul be like 20, whit out that 20mm adapter, so that rims should mean Bmw ix to clear that brake rack issue....
I hope in future i would get those 3pcs rims, what is made for Bmw, then all size would be easy, just but that part mid(where is those spokes) part to hub and measure those space inside that mid part how much there is space to that suspension part and then measure how much big lip you make fit in there
Sorry in a row post...But i hope these help some one.Last edited by litu; 09-29-2015, 04:11 AM.Leave a comment:
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Also here is some last pics, it will rub those same spots, at back...
And front there is those spots, at front side at that tyre, when you turn those wheel max, when that tyre will go very close at front side wheel, like here.
Here is few pics first whitout that 20mm adapter and few pics whit 20mm adapter. Also some pics when you turn wheel max, you see that space and back side tyre, that spot.
I was need to heat that front inner plastic fender, to clear itLeave a comment:
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Sorry if i post so many post queue
And here is those same issue at hub+you can see that front brake caliber rack.
That first pic is whit that 20mm adapter, you can see what i mean, now..
No that rims fit roll.
Those 2 other pics are for show, how much that front brakecaliber is comming out.
Also there is little different in ATE and girling brakesLeave a comment:
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And here is few pics ix rims "problem"
So my rims was meant to like fwd car, like Honda, so thats why the rims looks like this inside.
As you see that surface in that position/are, where that rim will attach is flat.
Those last two pics are
And here is few pics, how that rim should look, when they are meant to ix, not sure are that same in rwd e30. At back there is bit problems.
I was add that 20mm adapter in that rim, so you can see that edge what i mean.(that is that black part)Last edited by litu; 09-29-2015, 04:04 AM.Leave a comment:
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Also there is few pic, other you can see at back, how much there is space at that rear wishbone, space was about 10cm
Also there is one pic at front when tyres was turned max left.
That was taked front of the wheel to show how much there is space at back the tyre, when turned max left, space was 5cmLeave a comment:
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Soo, here is those picture...
Also some measures, with very old suspension and i have at back some rubber plate, under spring, there is those stock one, like 0.5cm+1cm and i was put one 1cm+0.7cm plates.
Here is those measures.
At front hub-fender arch=34cm
At back hub-fender arch=32cm
Also those tyre to fender arch, front=6cm, back=5.5cm
Those ground clearance both measures are in front, back of wheel and back that measure is front of the wheel.
So Front was 21cm, back was 24cm
In this first post, at back are no adapters. Rims are 16x8, ET20, tyres 215/45-16.Last edited by litu; 09-29-2015, 04:11 AM.Leave a comment:
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WTF, i dont know what happen. i will try update again those pics, my computer fucking me.
I will try load those pics again and some say take better pics..
Your welcome, if that was helped.
I have solution, you must find 3pcs rims, what are meant to Bmw e30, at least at front are about 20mm clearence to those front brake caliber adapter.
Also if those rims what you are watching, are ment to ix(i mean if those fit in ix), i would get those. That would look epic, whit out those adapters.Last edited by litu; 09-27-2015, 08:35 AM.Leave a comment:
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thanks for taking the pictures and the measurements, that really fills the wheel well out. I wish it was easier to find 4x100 wheels with high offset. Your the man Sade!Leave a comment:
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Can you post a picture of the wheels without the adapters so I can see what it would look like? And check where it rubs? I would appreciate it Sade!Leave a comment:
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I have same tyres+rims, but i have also 20mm adapters. If i have understand this that change that ET in 0.
Only "problems" i was, when hard corner in load, speed up in some pump, i have heavy load, then hard corner, speed up in some rough pump.
My only trim was that inner plastic flare, that point where that attachment in front, when you was wheels was turned the maximum position.
Also was put some 1cm thick rubber plate under back spring to rise little and make that spring "stiffer".
And the reason on my old bad suspension, that is stock. It would need new shock absorbers+springs
At the back whit out those 20mm adapters, i remember they roll easy and front would be even better then now and at front it would be also better, whit out that 20mm adapter.
But i was must test those, becouse there was little skeptical people not bealive those would roll, becouse i would say no one are not tested.
My next test in future would be little stiffer springs, that is that "problem", whit stock suspension, those will rub, when hard cornering, heavy load, some speed pumps if too much speed, also i need some fender rolling, maybe some that stock plastic ix fender flare more little, becouse my country law say those are illegal, my tyre tread come out fender like 5mm and that is illegal.
Or if you have lower that ix, i would say you need stiffer springs, also that trimming/flares rolling helps
PS, i hope that text is for understandable or helps
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