ix axle problem

[e30325ix]

so i bought a rebuilt front axle for my ix last year, and not less than 6 months afterwards (this is even after putting it away for the winter) the new axle that i spent 450 on detonates, this pisses me off immensely. so in my fit of anger and frustration, i ended up buying a bmw factory rebuilt axle for 1100, way to *#$&*%# much for an axle. so now im nervous about breaking this one too, which would suck alot, now to get to my question, for short periods of time, is it ok to just pull out the front 2 axles from the front diff, cap the holes in the diff and drive it as a rwd car, or does the front bearing require the axle shaft spline to be there for proper functioning? will i screw anything up by doing this for short periods of time just to give the front axles some time off?

[smcdermott326]

from "theBMWixClub" yahoo group:
From: Peter Quinn <[LINK: mailto:ovalbar%40msn.com] ovalbar@...
Subject: RE: [The BMW 325iX Club] Can I remove a failed front axle
and still drive it? Sent: 09 Dec '07 06:54 If you leave the gap open you only invite road grit into the front diff, the risk is too high, considering the damage you could do to the bearings, gears, etc, and the mess of all the gear lube you will throw out. But for all that want to advise driving with the axle out, please start a fund to help pay for a new front diff. It may drive without the axle, but should you?

Bottom line: they're not needed for functioning (proper aside) and you could do it for short periods of time, but I wouldn't suggest it ever just to give the front axles some time off. The risks of screwing something up with grit/dirt far outweigh the potential benefits to the axles. An axle rebuilder can usually do the rebuilds for under $225. I suggest you have yours rebuilt rather than attempting to buy someone's supposed rebuilt axles. I paid $200+ for mine and I find that I overpaid compared to other folks. But sometimes you have to take what services are available in your area. The service I have available is done same day or next day.

[nando]

the front wheel bearings will be destroyed if you drive without driveshafts in them.

[e30325ix]

my biggest problem is that there are no shops in the entire state of vermont that do axle rebuilds, meaning i would have to send one away out of state to calli or florida or some far off place which really sucks

[Alkasquawlik]

I'm sure the price you would pay for shipping + the actual rebuild would be less than $1100

[smcdermott326]

my recommendation is to contact:
Autopart International1519 Shelburne Rd
South Burlington, VT 05403 Map

(802) 658-5293

and ask them if they have a place they send out axles to for rebuild. The Autopart International place in East Hartford CT sends them in state (like waterbury) for rebuild. couple of hundred. If the vermont location is set up similar, they have an ongoing relationship with a rebuilder. Cost to you is a phone call and even if they don't, they may have a recommendation since it would be a common issue.

[supernaughtIX]

if all else fails, ive got a great set of spare fronts in my garage for $300

[justin_l_]

^ Me too!

[erwendell]

First off, "rebuilt" axles can mean a couple of things. What various shops used to do in an attempt to rebuild CV drive axles was to machine the grooves in the inner and outer raceways to the nearest standard oversize ball bearing available, install new bearings and a boot kit, hit the shaft with some black spray paint, and send them out the door. The problem with this technique is that the raceways are surface hardened and once the hard metal is machined away the raceways wear out much quicker than new ones. For the $450 dollars that you spent on the current shaft I expect that's what you got. In my experience, shafts rebuilt in this way are just crap. We got tired of replacing them every year when they wore out and starting making scary knocking noises whenever we turned a corner.

For the $1100 that BMW is charging, I am certain that you are getting a shaft with brand new joints on each end.

As others have indicated, you need the outer joint/axle stub in place because the wheel bearings are the meat in a hub-stub axle sandwich. The axle nut pulls the stub axle in which puts the proper amount of preload on the bearings. You would have to remove the axles and separate the inner and outer CV joints from the shafts, then reinstall them in order for the front hubs to function and to keep crud out of the diff. Then you'd have a bigger problem because you've disconnected the front side of the center differential from the wheels. That means that the viscous limited slip unit would be tasked with carrying all the drive loads rather than the gears of the center diff. By the time you buy a viscous unit and rebuild your transfer case a new axle looks cheap. If you're having a hard time picturing this, think about what would happen if you remove one drive axle from a two wheel drive car and then realize that the center diff works the same way only it outputs to the front and rear drive shafts rather than a left and right axle.

[harmelin]

Front driveshaft..........

Great!

Dont tell me you wont send to Sweden ;-)

Rgds,
Harald

if all else fails, ive got a great set of spare fronts in my garage for $300

[supernaughtIX]

Great!

Dont tell me you wont send to Sweden ;-)

Rgds,
Harald

You can't find a set there?

I'll ship anywhere if shipping gets paid.

[supernaughtIX]

btw shipping in US or canada is included