Picked up an IX, doing standard maintenace, have questions...

[greenbeem93]

Finally picked up a 1989 4 door 5spd ix a week ago, but am just getting around to flushing all of the fluids, new plugs, filters, etc...

I've read many a thread on what the common issues are with these cars, so I decided to get the car up in the air and start checking things out. Here are my findings/questions:

1. The exhaust system: What does the piping look like from the headers back to the cat? It appears that the previous owner had someone weld two pipes coming off of the headers into a Y pipe, and then a single pipe goes to the cat. From the cat, dual pipes go to the muffler, they are welded on as well, so I can't replace the rusted only catback as easily as I'd like.

2. The Front drive shaft: With both front tires off of the ground, I can turn the drive shaft by hand, and only one the left tire moves. There is slight movement from the right, but no where near as much as the left. If I spin the left tire itself, the right tire spins at the same rate. Is this anything to worry about?
Also, I can actually see the splines where the drive shaft meets the t-case. Is that normal? I unbolted the drive shaft and found that I could slide it into the t-case another .5 inch or so. I plan on doing the washer modification to get more of the splines in play.

3. T-case: I emptied the fluid to see how much was actually in there, and wow, there was probably only 5-6oz of fluid in the case! The fluid was black and the magnetic drain plug had a huge glob of fine metal shavings on it. I cleaned off the plug and put it back, I plan on refilling the t-case tonight.

4. The oil filter: How the F do you get that thing out? I was trying to twist it off from under the car, but she wouldn't budge. F'n Fram filter.

So, as you can tell, the previous owner hasn't taken very good care of her, but I'm hoping to revive her as best I can. If anyone could point out what is 'normal' and what isn't, that would be a huge help. From what I've read, I kinda figure that the T-case is fried, but we'll see once I get everything back together and fill her with fresh fluids.

TIA

[supernaughtIX]

I will comment a little on each of these but there might be others that can chime in with other info

Finally picked up a 1989 4 door 5spd ix a week ago, but am just getting around to flushing all of the fluids, new plugs, filters, etc...

I've read many a thread on what the common issues are with these cars, so I decided to get the car up in the air and start checking things out. Here are my findings/questions:

1. The exhaust system: What does the piping look like from the headers back to the cat? It appears that the previous owner had someone weld two pipes coming off of the headers into a Y pipe, and then a single pipe goes to the cat. From the cat, dual pipes go to the muffler, they are welded on as well, so I can't replace the rusted only catback as easily as I'd like.

your options here are just cut and weld. There are a few options for replacing cat back, just search around.

2. The Front drive shaft: With both front tires off of the ground, I can turn the drive shaft by hand, and only one the left tire moves. There is slight movement from the right, but no where near as much as the left. If I spin the left tire itself, the right tire spins at the same rate. Is this anything to worry about?

The front diff is open so the wheel rotation you see is standard. For your own peace of mind, since the car has been so abused, I would suggest opening the front diff and looking for damage/shavings. Clean fluid, no/little wear and no shavings = good. Same goes for the rear diff. Keep everything clean when working with an open diff!

Also, I can actually see the splines where the drive shaft meets the t-case. Is that normal? I unbolted the drive shaft and found that I could slide it into the t-case another .5 inch or so. I plan on doing the washer modification to get more of the splines in play.

This is normal. How do the splines look when you pull them out? More contact is better - use the spacer or washers properly though.

3. T-case: I emptied the fluid to see how much was actually in there, and wow, there was probably only 5-6oz of fluid in the case! The fluid was black and the magnetic drain plug had a huge glob of fine metal shavings on it. I cleaned off the plug and put it back, I plan on refilling the t-case tonight.

Bad. Sorry to hear that. There should be much more fluid, and the gunk you found - black/sticky - could be the silicone type shit from inside the VC, and shavings from the chain/pulleys run with no fluid. New TC will likely be needed unless you feel up to servicing it yourself, not an easy task. There is a thread on e30tech.com by Posaune for rebuilding a TC.

4. The oil filter: How the F do you get that thing out? I was trying to twist it off from under the car, but she wouldn't budge. F'n Fram filter.

With a decent filter wrench it will just take some work. maybe some blaster around where it threads in.

So, as you can tell, the previous owner hasn't taken very good care of her, but I'm hoping to revive her as best I can. If anyone could point out what is 'normal' and what isn't, that would be a huge help. From what I've read, I kinda figure that the T-case is fried, but we'll see once I get everything back together and fill her with fresh fluids.

TIA

Your VC might still be good, and you should get it filled up and test it. Do the jack test before you get too depressed thats its screwed already.

Out of curiosity, how is the body/interior? You never know when you will find a rotten/wrecked parts car that has good mechanical stuff for you to drop in.

Keep optimistic and you'll have an awesome car in no time. Then you can move on to squeezing out a bit more power/response.

[nando]

Finally picked up a 1989 4 door 5spd ix a week ago, but am just getting around to flushing all of the fluids, new plugs, filters, etc...

I've read many a thread on what the common issues are with these cars, so I decided to get the car up in the air and start checking things out. Here are my findings/questions:

1. The exhaust system: What does the piping look like from the headers back to the cat? It appears that the previous owner had someone weld two pipes coming off of the headers into a Y pipe, and then a single pipe goes to the cat. From the cat, dual pipes go to the muffler, they are welded on as well, so I can't replace the rusted only catback as easily as I'd like.

2. The Front drive shaft: With both front tires off of the ground, I can turn the drive shaft by hand, and only one the left tire moves. There is slight movement from the right, but no where near as much as the left. If I spin the left tire itself, the right tire spins at the same rate. Is this anything to worry about?
Also, I can actually see the splines where the drive shaft meets the t-case. Is that normal? I unbolted the drive shaft and found that I could slide it into the t-case another .5 inch or so. I plan on doing the washer modification to get more of the splines in play.

3. T-case: I emptied the fluid to see how much was actually in there, and wow, there was probably only 5-6oz of fluid in the case! The fluid was black and the magnetic drain plug had a huge glob of fine metal shavings on it. I cleaned off the plug and put it back, I plan on refilling the t-case tonight.

4. The oil filter: How the F do you get that thing out? I was trying to twist it off from under the car, but she wouldn't budge. F'n Fram filter.

So, as you can tell, the previous owner hasn't taken very good care of her, but I'm hoping to revive her as best I can. If anyone could point out what is 'normal' and what isn't, that would be a huge help. From what I've read, I kinda figure that the T-case is fried, but we'll see once I get everything back together and fill her with fresh fluids.

TIA

1. you have a few choices here.. you can try to find a good used midsection (ix specific, new from the dealer is $$$$$), reuse the hack job exhaust that it has now and weld on a new muffler, or spend a few hundred and get a full custom 2.5" exhaust with a high flow cat, muffler and resonator.

2. did you have the rear wheels off the ground also when you did this test? because that concerns me that you were able to turn the driveshaft with the rear wheels on the ground. It should have been very stiff/hard to turn. I'd reccomend searching for 325ix jack test on youtube.

as far as the splines, no it's not normal that you can see them. It's missing the dust cover, which is actually pretty cheap. keeps dirt and water from contaminating the splines. Also look for some Molykote BR2-plus from dow corning to lube the splines.

3. if it wasn't completely empty that's a good sign, but being black isn't good either. Do you still have the fluid? Were there any gelatinous blobs in it?

4. get the oil filter wrench from bavarian autosport. It's steel, goes on the end of a ratchet. You can do this from the top, no need to crawl under the car. :)

[greenbeem93]

I will comment a little on each of these but there might be others that can chime in with other info


your options here are just cut and weld. There are a few options for replacing cat back, just search around.



The front diff is open so the wheel rotation you see is standard. For your own peace of mind, since the car has been so abused, I would suggest opening the front diff and looking for damage/shavings. Clean fluid, no/little wear and no shavings = good. Same goes for the rear diff. Keep everything clean when working with an open diff!


This is normal. How do the splines look when you pull them out? More contact is better - use the spacer or washers properly though.


Bad. Sorry to hear that. There should be much more fluid, and the gunk you found - black/sticky - could be the silicone type shit from inside the VC, and shavings from the chain/pulleys run with no fluid. New TC will likely be needed unless you feel up to servicing it yourself, not an easy task. There is a thread on e30tech.com by Posaune for rebuilding a TC.


With a decent filter wrench it will just take some work. maybe some blaster around where it threads in.



Your VC might still be good, and you should get it filled up and test it. Do the jack test before you get too depressed thats its screwed already.

Out of curiosity, how is the body/interior? You never know when you will find a rotten/wrecked parts car that has good mechanical stuff for you to drop in.

Keep optimistic and you'll have an awesome car in no time. Then you can move on to squeezing out a bit more power/response.

Thank you for your input! The body is in pretty good condition, it could use a paint job, but what 20yr old car couldn't. Interior is decent, needs new seats, other than that, I have no complaints.

Again, thanks for your advice!

1. you have a few choices here.. you can try to find a good used midsection (ix specific, new from the dealer is $$$$$), reuse the hack job exhaust that it has now and weld on a new muffler, or spend a few hundred and get a full custom 2.5" exhaust with a high flow cat, muffler and resonator.

2. did you have the rear wheels off the ground also when you did this test? because that concerns me that you were able to turn the driveshaft with the rear wheels on the ground. It should have been very stiff/hard to turn. I'd reccomend searching for 325ix jack test on youtube.

as far as the splines, no it's not normal that you can see them. It's missing the dust cover, which is actually pretty cheap. keeps dirt and water from contaminating the splines. Also look for some Molykote BR2-plus from dow corning to lube the splines.

3. if it wasn't completely empty that's a good sign, but being black isn't good either. Do you still have the fluid? Were there any gelatinous blobs in it?

4. get the oil filter wrench from bavarian autosport. It's steel, goes on the end of a ratchet. You can do this from the top, no need to crawl under the car. :)

The rear wheels were on the ground, but I was only turning the shaft maybe a 1/8th of a turn, and it wasn't easily moved. The dust cover is on the drive shaft, but if I look closely, I can see a section of the splines. The splines I could see look pretty good, not worn and pointy.

Thanks Fellas, I'll report back once I get some things taken care of.

[nando]

Thank you for your input! The body is in pretty good condition, it could use a paint job, but what 20yr old car couldn't. Interior is decent, needs new seats, other than that, I have no complaints.

Again, thanks for your advice!



The rear wheels were on the ground, but I was only turning the shaft maybe a 1/8th of a turn, and it wasn't easily moved. The dust cover is on the drive shaft, but if I look closely, I can see a section of the splines. The splines I could see look pretty good, not worn and pointy.

Thanks Fellas, I'll report back once I get some things taken care of.

okay that's good.

as far as the cover, it's probably not slid all the way back as far as it can go. It should completely cover the splines, it will "snap" into place once it's all the way back.

[greenbeem93]

okay that's good.

as far as the cover, it's probably not slid all the way back as far as it can go. It should completely cover the splines, it will "snap" into place once it's all the way back.

Good to know!

[ZM Blue Devil]

will be parting a low mile 4 door ix next week do to an accident, drop me a pm if interested in hrs/billys or any other parts you may need.

[greenbeem93]

Ok, I filled up the t-case and did the washer drive shaft mod. Then I proceeded to do the jack test, and I could hear grinding, sounded like the splines were slipping.

What are my options? New/refurbed drive shaft? New T-case? Both?

Thanks

[nando]

you can get away with a driveshaft shim for a little while if they are stripped. in any case, pull the front shaft and have a peak at the splines. it's simple - undo the nuts holding the flex disk, use a flathead to pop out the centering pin (it's between the flex disk and shaft, there's a small slot where the screwdriver goes). the shaft pulls out.

if the splines in the case are good, you can just get a new shaft. however, if the splines in the case are damaged too, the output gear needs replaced. a used and working t-case may be a good idea in this case.

despite the grinding noise, did the car move? did you jack from the rear or the front?

[greenbeem93]

Jacked it up from the rear. Car didn't move, although, once I heard the grinding, I clutched in.

I'll check out the output gear this weekend, thanks!

[supernaughtIX]

if your splines and output gear are good, you will be looking for a new(or used) TC. Grinding noises + shavings and crud when draining fluid are not a good combo. Possible chain slipping could be your monster. Might not mean your VC is bad though. If you have the skills and fancy tools it might be possible to Frankenstein a good TC from yours and one with a bad VC. Otherwise you're looking at a buying a good TC. Sorry to hear that.

[greenbeem93]

Just an update:

Removed the front drive shaft, the splines looked fantastic! Tops were flat, not sharp or rounded off at all. Output splines looked to be in good shape as well, which was surprising due to there being very little to no lube at all. So I lubed up everything and re-installed it. Tried the jack test again praying for different results, but there was no change. I could actually let the clutch all the way out and the car never moved.

One question on having a blown VC: Is the car still 4wd at all? What would happen if the car was driven on snow or ice? Would just the rear wheels spin?

[supernaughtIX]

when you let the clutch out do you hear constant grinding noise? grinding would indicate slipping chain, no grinding would likely mean bad VC. With a bad VC there should still be some pull, even if its minor.

[Alkasquawlik]

I have the same problem with the oil filter, it's a bitch.

[greenbeem93]

when you let the clutch out do you hear constant grinding noise? grinding would indicate slipping chain, no grinding would likely mean bad VC. With a bad VC there should still be some pull, even if its minor.

Yes, I do hear the grinding noise. So basically the VC could still be in decent shape, but there is no movement due to the chain slipping? Hmmmm...