Is the accelerator pedal adjustable?

[chuckdizzle]

I have two 1991 IXs, one is a 5-speed and the other is automatic. I've noticed that the accelerator on the automatic is super stiff and takes a good bit of effort to manipulate. The 5-speed accelerator is much smoother and easier, same as my e36.
Is there an adjustment that can be made to the automatic? Currently, I cannot drive a 5-speed due to a knee injury and surgery. But, damn its a workout for my good leg to drive the auto.
I believe there is a transmission accelerator cable? Similar to the throttle cable. Is that adjustable and would affect the pedal travel and stiffness?

Something else I've noticed in the automatic, while in Park and Neutral the motor idles close to 1100 rpm and then steadily climbs to about 1500 rpm and hovers around there, but in Drive and Reverse, the motor idles as it should, ~900rpm. Hot and cold starts haven't made any difference. Is this normal behavior?

[nomansland92]

i would start by changing the throttle cable

[325ix]

Every automatic I have ever been in has a higher park and neutral idle.

[yert315]

I believe what you are experiencing with the heavy automatic pedal is the resistance from the kick-down cable. I think the transmission kick down is operated by a cable run to the throttle linkage.

I'm not sure there is much you can do in the way of lighter pedal feel other than lube up the linkages around the padel and throttle body.

[Wh33lhop]

All older automatics idle higher in neutral and park than in drive or reverse. This is because in neutral and park the engine is not under load; in drive or reverse it is being loaded down by the torque converter since it's in gear. That is normal, although your idle figures sound a bit high.

I believe what you are experiencing with the heavy automatic pedal is the resistance from the kick-down cable. I think the transmission kick down is operated by a cable run to the throttle linkage.

I'm not sure there is much you can do in the way of lighter pedal feel other than lube up the linkages around the padel and throttle body.

I typically do not deal with autos but I am 95% sure kickdown operation is from a button the pedal contacts at WOT.

OP, check your throttle operation at the throttle body. Is it smooth? Then it is likely an issue with the cable. A new cable is ~$30 IIRC, if you narrow it down it is probably worth it.

[chuckdizzle]

Thanks guys, I'll definitely check the throttle cable and kickdown button and I think the Bentley states how much slack there should be on the cable itself.

As far as the idle goes, at initial startup in Park, the motor idles normally as it would in Drive. Once I go back into Park, the idle rises slowly. However, if the automatic transmission is supposed to idle high in Park and Neutral then I guess I can feel at ease about it. This is my first automatic bimmer so I don't have much experience.

I did read that leaving the automatic transmission in Park (while the motor is running) for long periods of time can cause serious damage. Apparently, the tranmission cuts off fluid flow? Not sure if its true, read it in the Gordon's IX Registry Newsletters. Awesome bus or train reading for commuters I might add.

[supernaughtIX]

2 cables, one for throttle and one for transmission. The bowden cable that leads from the TB to the transmission is what sets the shift point based on throttle position. This is the "kick down".
Throttle opens, trans cable is pulled, pressure changes in the valving and the gear is changed.
The button under the pedal is not a switch, it is just a spring loaded pedal stop.

Try removing the trans cable from the TB linkage(with the car off, turn the TB by hand and the cable end will slip off the linkage), then test the pedal feel. You can also tug on the trans cable by hand to feel how tight it is.
One of these is likely stiff, which can also lead to a high idle if the TB is not closing all the way. My guess is throttle cable, but check it out.

[chuckdizzle]

2 cables, one for throttle and one for transmission. The bowden cable that leads from the TB to the transmission is what sets the shift point based on throttle position. This is the "kick down".
Throttle opens, trans cable is pulled, pressure changes in the valving and the gear is changed.
The button under the pedal is not a switch, it is just a spring loaded pedal stop.

Try removing the trans cable from the TB linkage(with the car off, turn the TB by hand and the cable end will slip off the linkage), then test the pedal feel. You can also tug on the trans cable by hand to feel how tight it is.
One of these is likely stiff, which can also lead to a high idle if the TB is not closing all the way. My guess is throttle cable, but check it out.

that might explain the idle issues if the tension on the cable prevents the throttle body from closing all the way. From what some friends have said after driving the car, the idle is definitely higher than theirs and creeps upward which isn't normal.

[supernaughtIX]

Idle should be nice and low when you start it in park. Around 700 +/-. When I put mine in gear it drops a little with the added load. After driving, and putting it in park, it will settle near the 700 mark again. Only difference is if the car is cold, then idle is higher on starts.

[nando]

Every automatic I have ever been in has a higher park and neutral idle.

then none of them were running correctly.

[chuckdizzle]

Idle should be nice and low when you start it in park. Around 700 +/-. When I put mine in gear it drops a little with the added load. After driving, and putting it in park, it will settle near the 700 mark again. Only difference is if the car is cold, then idle is higher on starts.

That sounds about right. Initial startup, the motor will idle as it should. Once the car has been put into gear, then I go back into Park after I get to my destination, the idle will climb above 1100rpm and then hang there. Same goes for Neutral.
I think its the throttle body not closing completely as suggested earlier, having to do with cable tension. The whole throttle body was replaced several months ago by the PO at a service shop, not sure if that may have caused the issue after the replacement.

[chuckdizzle]

apparently the throttle cable was loose. My m20 guru friend looked at it and found that the cable was so loose that I've probably never had WOT until the adjustment was made.
Messed with the accelerator pedal a little bit and the linkage and made an improvement.

[325ix]

then none of them were running correctly.

They were brand new.

[chuckdizzle]

fail....found the reason why the car was struggling to maintain proper idle. A really clogged up air filter, of all the things that could have been the culprit I decided to look past the simple stuff. Threw in a new filter and after a quick commute to work the car started to idle much better and lower in Park and Neutral. The filter didn't look too old, but the airbox had so much gunk and grime inside that I think I might buy a new airbox as well. Its as though the plastic inside is falling apart and getting sucked into the filter, there were flakes of plastic and rubber stuck in the old filter