Hey guys first let me say thanks to all posters on the forum .I have finally got my 88ix on the road after 3 years of (on off ) work .Most of what I learned about the ix came from you guys .Now that the running gear is fixed ,I want to start on the body .What would be a good rattle can primer /sealer to use as I fix the many spots ? And most important what to use on the plastic flares ,rocker trim? Thinking about plastic bumper swap ,do the 2wd bumpers fit? Thanks !!!!!
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bumper swap will work.
i know about this epoxy/fiberglass mix called por-15, supposed to be pretty good for smaller areas that you dont want to weld an entire panel into -
All bumpers are the same. There is a paint and body work sub forum. I suggest you look through that.
Duplicolor is good.AWD > RWDComment
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por-15 is awesome for rust prevantion. I just got a quart of it for like 45 bucks but its the best.Originally posted by devon.818 View Post
I/m currently restoring my 88' Ix and this is my procedure for patches and rust areas.
cosindereing the patch is in a welding and this is under the car or not visable
1- at least 2 solid coats of primer( I use cold galvanized primer because its great for sheet metal)
2-seam seal all the edges real well
3- another coat of primer
4- 2 to 3 coats of por-15
5- rubberized undercoating
hope this helpsComment
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I used that SEM trim paint on the plastic stuff and for shadowline. A can of adhesion promoter is recommended and I used it, not sure if you really need to.
'Primer' is good for metal adhesion so if you are taking a spot down to bare metal you best prime that little lady. Use the same brand gloss over that to protect it from the elements since primer doesn't do that. If you use different brands the chemistry wont match up and it can flake easily.... but sometimes different 'brands' are actually all made by velspar.
Same primer same gloss same clear. Later when you are done with all the body work you are going to sand it down again anyway so it wont matter for now if your just fixing a spot here and there and driving a spotted cheetah car.
If you are doing this all in the same garage and all in the same sitting you will want to use a primer that will work well with your final gloss coat. Pay attention to the drying times~ sometimes you need to wait a hour between coats, sometimes you can only wait 4 hours then you have to wait 48 hours for it to dry... so if you dont get your clear coat on after that first 4 hours it probably wont stick. If you prime and let it sit and get dirty you will need to re-sand and possibly re-prime.
All my experience is from rattle cans and metal etching tractor paint so let the real painters chime in with the real paint tips.
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