New 325IX Owner...here's a list of things I'll be doing..

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  • Sean
    R3V Elite
    • Oct 2003
    • 5793

    #1

    New 325IX Owner...here's a list of things I'll be doing..

    I've done a fair bit of searching, and know a little - but closing on a house in October means my time is fairly limited.

    Anyway, I'm a new owner of a 1991 325ix. I traded my 1990 735i for it. I cannot wait to enjoy it in the snow!

    It does have it's share of issues though, some I'd like to discuss:

    1. It seems to be leaking oil - not sure if it's from the Tcase - looks like the headgasket has the infamous "oil seepage" issue.
    2. Shocks blown, will be fixing that soon
    3. It has an auto...someday...I will swap...
    4. Ball joints totally gone.

    Anyway, with those items in mind - I have the car on stands right now - but won't be doing all the work this very second. Right now, I'm doing:

    - Oil change
    - Checking all fluids levels (front/rear diffs and transfer case)
    - Attempting to determine where my oil leak is coming from
    - Trying to find my coolant leak source
    - Cleaning the engine bay - it's filthy and I need to take off some grime to try to find the source for all the leaks...?
    - Ensuring the axle spline has it's proper grease (is it the graphic based grease I should use?)

    In October, or November (if the snow stays away...haha) - I'll do the following:

    - Bilstein HDs
    - H&R Sports (anyone know where I can find any used?)
    - New front ball joints (inner & outer), tie rods and control arm bushings

    However, while I am removing axles from the strut assembly, should I be doing anything else?

    SOME QUESTIONS FOR YOU GURUS:
    1. Should I be concerned about leaks where the driveshaft goes thru the oil pan? I didn't find anything concrete on this.
    2. The boots on my axles are already new - should I take them out and inspect anything while I'm in there?
    3. Should I consider wheel bearings, or not bother?
    4. What else should I do when I have the front end apart like that?


    I'm open to suggestions and any informative threads you can point my way!!

    Thanks,
    Sean
    - Sean Hayes
  • fronton
    E30 Fanatic
    • Oct 2009
    • 1262

    #2
    When referring to ball joints, do you mean the control arms' ball joints? Since you are replacing the control arm bushings, just do the arms themselves as well.

    Don't bother which wheel bearings unless they are already going bad.

    Like every M20, if you don't know for certain that the timing belt was replaced in the last 7 years or 50k miles, this this before you drive it much further. You should do the water pump and tstat while you are in there.

    Comment

    • z122643
      Wrencher
      • Aug 2011
      • 286

      #3
      TIMING BELT! don't even question it!

      I have the same leak from the axle passageway for the passenger side axle. I wouldn't worry to much about it. It is from the differential.

      I would also do all fluids. (and replace all fill and drain plugs especially the front diff plugs. )
      [/SIGPIC]"we are so totally screwed!"

      Comment

      • nando
        Moderator
        • Nov 2003
        • 34827

        #4
        Motor oil can't leak through the axle passage. There is no opening into the pan.

        Congrats on the ix :)
        Build thread

        Bimmerlabs

        Comment

        • 1E30iX2NV
          Noobie
          • Dec 2012
          • 26

          #5
          i recommend you doing the ball joints inner and outer and use the old control arms ...they are different than regular e30's and alot of $. secondly the oil leak at the right front axle is from two seals ...1 the axle seal and 2 theres an oring sealing the oil pan from axle . i would reseal it mos def. i would do the wheel bearings if your gonna have the front totally disassembled to do struts and ball joints etc...

          Comment

          • Sean
            R3V Elite
            • Oct 2003
            • 5793

            #6
            Originally posted by fronton
            When referring to ball joints, do you mean the control arms' ball joints? Since you are replacing the control arm bushings, just do the arms themselves as well.

            Don't bother which wheel bearings unless they are already going bad.

            Like every M20, if you don't know for certain that the timing belt was replaced in the last 7 years or 50k miles, this this before you drive it much further. You should do the water pump and tstat while you are in there.
            I was planning on purchasing the inner and outer balljoints and reusing the arm, since the whole assembly is insanely expensive!

            Timing belt was recent - PO had the head off less than a yr ago I believe (I need to go thru and document the things he told me). We traded cars, so I'd like to believe we were both very honest with each other.


            Originally posted by z122643
            TIMING BELT! don't even question it!

            I have the same leak from the axle passageway for the passenger side axle. I wouldn't worry to much about it. It is from the differential.

            I would also do all fluids. (and replace all fill and drain plugs especially the front diff plugs. )
            Was planning on all fluids pretty soon - debating on doing this all at the same time right now, or waiting until I move into my house...gotta decide haha.

            Originally posted by nando
            Motor oil can't leak through the axle passage. There is no opening into the pan.

            Congrats on the ix :)
            Ok, that makes sense. But, I should still seal up that axle passage, right?

            And thanks...kinda worried about what I'm getting myself into. But, this winter, with 4 snow tires, I am hoping for some MAAADDD snow :)

            Originally posted by 1E30iX2NV
            i recommend you doing the ball joints inner and outer and use the old control arms ...they are different than regular e30's and alot of $. secondly the oil leak at the right front axle is from two seals ...1 the axle seal and 2 theres an oring sealing the oil pan from axle . i would reseal it mos def. i would do the wheel bearings if your gonna have the front totally disassembled to do struts and ball joints etc...
            That's the plan, with the ball joints.

            I'll take a look at those seals. Easy to replace?
            - Sean Hayes

            Comment

            • Sean
              R3V Elite
              • Oct 2003
              • 5793

              #7
              Hey, have you guys ever heard of these?



              Seem super cheap to me...too good to be true. lol
              - Sean Hayes

              Comment

              • TehRaydarlover
                E30 Addict
                • Mar 2013
                • 543

                #8
                ^interesting
                Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                Build Thread
                Rear Diff Rebuild
                Rebuildable Viscous Coupling
                Transfer Case Rebuild
                "Life is simpler with 12 valves"

                Comment

                • fresh_TD
                  R3VLimited
                  • Aug 2013
                  • 2457

                  #9
                  OP, you should also consider distributor cap/rotor, plugs/wires, coil, all belts(pretty cheap from ecs) and if you're going to replace timing belt/water pump/thermostat?( I would) go head and do the cam seal too since you're already there.. ONE big thing is to check your fuel lines and probably replace them anyway, its really cheap and easy to do along with the fuel filter, this was something I over looked when I picked up my IX about 2 months ago and had a crazier fuel leak then a squirting porn star at wal-mart parking lot... because the lines were rotted out. oh and if you really want oem control arms? the cheapest I found them was for around $200, but I would just replace the ball joints
                  '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
                  '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

                  Comment

                  • Sean
                    R3V Elite
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 5793

                    #10
                    I'm looking at buying the outers from FCP and Inners from Rennsport ($40/ea and $79/ea respectively). I'll also just buy a press. lol

                    What about thoughts on my automatic transmission? I figure I should do the fluid & filter while I'm under there - might as well ensure she doesn't get upset with me! Do I just run the normal ATF? And, what about fluid in the torque converter?
                    - Sean Hayes

                    Comment

                    • nando
                      Moderator
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 34827

                      #11
                      Just drain it, dont flush. I liked valvoline max life, it helped with the shifting and it works well with old seals.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

                      Comment

                      • nando
                        Moderator
                        • Nov 2003
                        • 34827

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Sean
                        They are not for an ix is my guess.
                        Build thread

                        Bimmerlabs

                        Comment

                        • fresh_TD
                          R3VLimited
                          • Aug 2013
                          • 2457

                          #13
                          Originally posted by nando
                          They are not for an ix is my guess.
                          it says this is specifically for the ix, wonder if anyone aver bought these for their ix and had fitment issues??
                          '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
                          '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

                          Comment

                          • nando
                            Moderator
                            • Nov 2003
                            • 34827

                            #14
                            it says they are but the price indicates it's not.

                            this isn't exactly the first time in internet history that a no-name company listed a standard part as fitting the ix.. honestly.

                            also, the picture isn't an ix control arm. it's too small. and when you search for the part # they list, it also says it fits a 325i
                            http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/search/?q=520-732

                            so yeah.. not for an ix.

                            as far as coils, plug wires, etc. if they aren't damaged, there's no reason to replace them. cap and rotor are wear items of course, but coils and plug wires are generally not.

                            lucky for Sean this isn't his first M20 rodeo so I think he knows this stuff already. :)
                            Build thread

                            Bimmerlabs

                            Comment

                            • Sean
                              R3V Elite
                              • Oct 2003
                              • 5793

                              #15
                              Hahahaha...Rightchu you are, Chris!! I know a lil' bout these little 12valve clickers. haha

                              Ok, thanks for the advice! I'll just grab some of that and call it a day.

                              And yes, I also assumed the same, Chris - that the CAs were actually not for IX's. Too good to be true, usually!
                              - Sean Hayes

                              Comment

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