Dropping subframe

[6A LDY]

I'm in the process of dropping the rear subframe, but the drive shaft is giving me some issues. In order to drop the subframe do I have to remove the rear driveshaft as well?

I've loosened the collar nut on the driveshaft and pushed it all the way forward past the threads on the driveshaft and now the splines are very slightly exposed. I'm confused about whether or not I should be able to remove the subframe now if I remove all the bolts then carefully slide the entire subframe backwards and then lower it? Or do I have to remove the diff first then the subframe?

Any help would be much appreciated.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I've never done it, but I'm not sure you can move the subframe back far enough while moving it down to get the driveshaft out of the loop. If the exhaust is out and you're ready to drop the subframe, getting the driveshaft out is only about another 20 minutes.

[6A LDY]

This is what it looks like for reference. The silver ring is the collar nut that has been pressed all the way into the housing on the u-joint side (towards the rear of the car). I'm still confused as to how much room is needed to separate the two pieces and how they come apart.




Trying to pry it back with a screwdriver without pushing too hard or scratching up the splines.



Also the u-joint of the driveshaft is still attached to the diff by the bolts, but the 4 nuts have been removed.

Should I be able to simply remove the u-joint piece or compress the splines somehow?

I was thinking that I could remove the subframe in a way that would allow me to disconnect the two parts of the driveshaft, then remove the u-joint section if necessary

[pbsun]

Do this without separating the drive shaft. Remove the center support bolts, guibo bolts and diff nuts. With the csb unattached from the car the drive shaft is flexible at the u joint. This flexibility will allow you enough room to wiggle the drive shaft out.

[6A LDY]

ix's dont have csb's as the rear drive shafts are one solid unit. They run from the transfer case to the rear diff. I wish I could wiggle it out, but it doesn't seem like it'll compress far enough to come off with out taking out the whole shaft or the diff individually :(

[barbierij]

go to the tranny side and pry the driveshaft toward the back of the car (pry between the back of the flex disc and driveshaft). This will compress the driveshaft into the u-joint assembly. you might have to get that nut back onto the threads for the driveshaft to slide into that u-joint all the way.

[6A LDY]

go to the tranny side and pry the driveshaft toward the back of the car (pry between the back of the flex disc and driveshaft). This will compress the driveshaft into the u-joint assembly. you might have to get that nut back onto the threads for the driveshaft to slide into that u-joint all the way.

couldn't I just pry between the u-joint and the diff to compress the shaft and then create some room to pull the bolts out of the diff plate then remove the entire u-joint section and proceed to drop the frame?

the bolts that connect the diff to the u-joint are ~1" long so if i can compress the shaft that much and then muscle it a little I think I'd be able to make it work.

My issue right now is that I'm not sure if the splines between the front and rear section of the d-shaft are rusted together or if the diff plate is rusted to the u-joint plate or both ( most likely) so I dont want to go and force everything at once.

I have everything removed and it's all ready to drop, but I need to make sure I'm not going to destroy anything trying to muscle it around. as of now I have 2 sets of stands in the rear one on the rail and one supporting the front of the subframe and then my floor jack supporting the diff.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I haven't dropped the subframe, but I have removed the driveshaft with the subframe and T-case in place before.

Take the 6 guibo bolts out, then pry that end away from the T-case far enough to disengage the center pilot from the T-case flange, then drop the front. The rear just comes right out at that point.

You have to drop the front end first.

If the driveshaft flange has been popped loose from the diff flange, I don't see why you can't just drop the whole subframe a few inches and then pull the subframe toward the rear of the car to get the rear U-joint out of the subframe loop.

[6A LDY]

If the driveshaft flange has been popped loose from the diff flange, I don't see why you can't just drop the whole subframe a few inches and then pull the subframe toward the rear of the car to get the rear U-joint out of the subframe loop.

This is almost what I was thinking, but instead of getting the u-joint out of the subframe, I want to separate the two parts of the drive shaft by dropping the subframe a few inches, then pulling it all back. I've heard other people having trouble trying to clear the subframe tunnel with the u-joint

[The Dark Side of Will]

Then pull the whole driveshaft out. If you'd done that, you'd be done by now. The "easy" way isn't.

Also, if you separate the two pieces, you have to put them back together in the same orientation or you may end up with vibration and have to pay to have the shaft rebalanced.

[6A LDY]

I just didn't want to have to remove the downpipes/cat because I still have nightmares about the first time I took them off and put them back on when all the nuts were rusted and stripped.

Thanks Will, I appreciate the help and the frankness.

[pbsun]

Yup good times, have fun!

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[Northern]

I managed to get the subframe out around the driveshaft with some wiggling. I was incredibly lazy when I replaced the bushings/subframe on my iX.

Only the subframe, diff, and rear tires came off. I wouldn't do it that way again though.

[6A LDY]

yeah I was trying to do it the same way, but I ended up just taking off the exhaust and removing the drive shaft and it was way easier. Now I just have to burn the bushings out