325ix power steering pipe leak
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Ancient thread- but I was replacing my 88 iX rack and damaged this pipe. Finding this thread was awesome- like the above post, the RealOEM diagram is very wrong. Thank you!Leave a comment:
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Thank you very much for finding that part number. How did you do it? It's listed on RealOEM for the 325ix application but the diagram is all wrong so I had hit a wall until I found this thread. Now to see if there are any more in the parts pipeline (ha ha). Mine blew out up near the ports for the pressure and return fittings on the input shaft. I don't know if was chafing a bit against the banjo fitting or if it was just thirty years of corrosion that did it in. I ended up laying under the front of the car in a puddle of melting ice on Lake George in NY so that I could remove the belt and save the pump. I was doing some very spirited steering while ice racing and I would assume the extra pressure spikes were all it took to open up a pinhole. I'd driven 500 miles to get there the day before the race and it wasn't leaking then.Leave a comment:
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A 1.5:1 quickener would increase effort by 1.5 times ;)
Who gives a crap? It's still power steering. Instead of the spool valve cracking at 10 ftlbs (or whatever) of steering wheel torque, it cracks at 15.
I may be to accustomed to manual steering cars (Fieros and my iX which I bought with no power steering belt). The only time I even notice the lack of power steering is when I'm trying to spin the wheel fast when making a multi-point turn to back into (or out of) my driveway.Leave a comment:
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I know somebody who did it, it does work but it also doubles the steering effort.Leave a comment:
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I cant believe even a moderator is participating in the thread bombingLeave a comment:
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I think one of these could work:

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Yeah i will check with these guys: http://www.sellholm.se/produkter/styrv%C3%A4xlarLeave a comment:
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it depends - it might actually be cheaper in the end. Not sure how feasible it is to modify the stock rack, but I think I'd still rather do that than all the stuff I listed above.Leave a comment:
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subframe needs modded for it to fit and bolt down. you'll need a second U-joint because the steering shaft is closer to the driver's fender (garagetastic makes one that would work). You'd need to use the E46 tie rods (shortened a bit) and you'll have to have the holes in the struts for the ball joints reamed out. I don't know about PS lines but I presume you'd need something custom but that's probably the easiest part.
The plus side is the steering ratio is much quicker - I measured the mm/revs a while back, don't remember what it was off the top of my head but it was like 1.5-2x faster.Leave a comment:
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I will look at making new internals for the stock rack when I have time, more expensive probably but bolt on :)Leave a comment:


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