IX Suspension Upgrade.. More Problems.. More $$

[nando]

the front bearing on the 325i doesn't have power going through it. it also uses a much smaller bearing.

I believe the 300ft/lbs is correct. However, again, I just tighten them down with the cheater bar and haven't had any problems.

[95BMWIC]

The nut is knarled a bit - because I didnt have a new one. The damn metal is so soft on those things..

A couple of years ago I rounded one completely on the passenger side.

It wasn't entirely my fault - Im pretty sure it was put on with an impact wrench because I could not get a socket cleanly on it.. I ruined the axle shaft splines cutting it out.. I was so pissed.. Now Im gun shy - Pun intended

280 - 330 seems high (Nm?) - although I think the front bearing torque on a 325i is 200+ ft lbs..

Torque to 150lbs should be ok. All my wheel bearings have been replaced in the last three years and both mechanics who did the work came up with 145lb specs per their research. Never had a problem with this.

That makes me feel better..

[JIM1inWisconsin]

ix suspension

Torque to 150lbs should be ok. All my wheel bearings have been replaced in the last three years and both mechanics who did the work came up with 145lb specs per their research. Never had a problem with this.

[Kershaw]

Don't worry about stripping it. Torque spec is something like 280-330ft/lbs (I've seen both). I put my 4' jack handle slipped over my 18" breaker bar and bear down. It's REALLY important you do this the first time after installation since everything will still cinch down a bit more. After the initial installation, using my milwaukee 1/2" is just fine. But that first installation really needs to be cranked down with some force.

I hope you haven't driven it yet. If you have, jack the front end up and wiggle the tires top to bottom. If they wiggle, try really cranking on the bolt. If they still wiggle, the bearing is toast. And they will wiggle until everything is bolted in and torqued down. Has anyone stripped ever one of those nuts? It's a big nut, I'd imagine it'd take more power than you could put down by hand. I've uninstalled and reinstalled those nuts dozens of times. Too many times too think about, goddamn cv boots... And I hope you put anti-seize on the half shaft splines.

And those struts weren't rusty at all. Everything looked like good solid metal. You can complain about rusty struts when the spring perches have holes and the top threads are peeling off. Those look like great condition struts and if they came with good hubs that's even better news.

I wonder if a machine shop could remove the old strut insert tubes. Drill them out or whatever.

[95BMWIC]

dunno. I always just crank it down with my 4 foot cheater bar. Never had a problem.

Me too - but I want to be careful about stripping the nut.. since it had been used already..

I marked a line across the shaft and nut - and will check if any rotation..

[nando]

dunno. I always just crank it down with my 4 foot cheater bar. Never had a problem.

[95BMWIC]

Thanks Nisse,

Back together..

Does anyone know the torque spec on the AXLE nut?

Bentley has rear at 150lbs - so that's what I went with.. I didn't horse it much more - because I had to re-use nuts (not happy) I was thinking the bearing kit came with the correct size nut (it didn't). I have to order separate..

[Nisse Järnet]

Good job!

[nando]

those struts weren't that rusty, lol. I should try to find the ones that came off my parts car. the gland nuts became one with the tubes. I ended up cutting them off (converted them to coilovers anyway). The spring perch was like swiss cheese.

[95BMWIC]

I feel your pain. Few years back ordered some strut inserts for my ix. $1700 and three weeks later they were installed. Complete mess. Next time around I would bite the bullet and order new strut housings. About $700 a throw.

Truth.. This was $500 more than I planned.. AND my air compressor took a dump..

Sad part is, its my son's car.. I only get to drive it when he comes home.

[95BMWIC]

One thing that made life a lot easier, was that I threw the new FAG bearings into the freezer for a day and let the strut assemblies sit outside in 95 degree heat.. It was very easy to get the bearing started and the hub assembly to start..

Didn't need to order a hub after all - the rusty struts each had a hub - so after some dremel cutting - I was able to remove the inner race from each of the hubs..

[95BMWIC]

You need to support the inner race from the back side when you press the hub in or you'll damage the bearing because you're literally pulling it apart. So..

1. Support the strut and press the bearing into the strut via the outer race
2. Support the inner race and press the hub into the bearing.

I wish I would have read this first, because when pressing in the hub, I struggled to get it fully in.. I have a 20 ton press (Harbor Freight) after getting the bearing in, I could wiggle the hub...

I called a friend, and he stated I needed to support the inner race - so I found a right sized socket and when I pressed it, it moved the extra mm and it seated.. apparently it was flexing - when pressing the final "stretch" without supporting the inner race..

I dont think I damaged it - but we will see.. (and I should have known better)..

[95BMWIC]

I used the degreaser, and the metal prep and laid down 2 thin coats of POR 15..

[95BMWIC]

Ordered a real rusty pair of struts from Classicdaily (like I said before) - super fast shipping, easy guy to talk to - but damn they were rusty - spent 5 hours cleaning, sanding, and prepping for POR-15 treatment.

[95BMWIC]

I worked on trying to get the inner strut out for half a day...

I pulled the guts out and the outer shell of the strut insert is seized in the strut assembly... I pried and pulled and well gave up..