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  • nando
    replied
    Depends on how much you section out of the tubes. Probably 1" is enough, i did 2". But either way, weld the perches so your threaded adjusters can go nearly to the top (you want to leave about 1/4" clear so the gland nuts fit snugly).

    You also want to move the swaybar link mounts down about the same amount you plan to lower the car.

    I dont think you need to trim the bump stops. You will probably need to use a spacer at the bottom of the struts, my konis came with one just the right length for housings shortened 2".

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied

    These showed up today. Thanks for the help guys. Do I need to trim the bumpstops? Also how far down should I mount the new spring perches? Do i weld them at the same distance down as stock after I section the 2.1 inches or does the 2.1 inches get subtracted from that distance?
    Last edited by dirtyEthirtyIX; 04-04-2018, 05:12 PM.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    After cutting the bumpstops off my Bilstein HDs in my street ix (paired with H&R sports) I was pretty happy with how it rode.

    I am curious how the rallyx ix will fare this weekend with cut bump stops and increased spring rates.

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post

    also FWIW the worst ride quality of all was the Bilsteins that I had re-valved (by Bilstein). Unbelievably bad. I actually thought I was going to suffer from internal organ damage or something, and worst of all one of them blew apart in only a few months. HDs might be OK with stockish spring rates since they are so much softer, but beyond that I would never do Bilsteins again..
    I wonder if they botched the valving on your set. They didn't even make yours the correct length and had to be modified here. Curious if they had left the stock valving and just shortened them if you would have liked that setup better.

    Local ix I work on has Bilstein HD and H&R Sport springs and they don't feel bad for street driving (although FL roads are unfairly flat and smooth).

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    To some up the rear setup I will be running koni Sports p/n 80-2522sport with my ground control springs.
    Unless anyone is running a true coilover setup and thinks it would be wise to use on my street/autocross build.

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  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    To some up the rear setup I will be running koni Sports p/n 80-2522sport with my ground control springs.

    Leave a comment:


  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    I still think the H&R Sports ride quality wasn't very good, even though the drop was modest. I mean, 24 year old me was willing to accept some level of punishment, but IMO it's not worth it. I actually thought the coilovers were an improvement in ride quality at the same height, just because the springs were stiffer and it didn't bottom out all the time.

    also think about it this way, I've redone my suspension like 5 times and ultimately arrived at the Koni Race and sectioned housings. You can just skip the pain and suffering. :)

    also FWIW the worst ride quality of all was the Bilsteins that I had re-valved (by Bilstein). Unbelievably bad. I actually thought I was going to suffer from internal organ damage or something, and worst of all one of them blew apart in only a few months. HDs might be OK with stockish spring rates since they are so much softer, but beyond that I would never do Bilsteins again..
    Agreed! I've had full length iX GCs with standard Konis. Couldn't lower the car much without compromising travel and thus ride quality.

    Then I shortened the housings to accept the race struts and ride quality on the race Konis/sectioned housings was fantastic, but I blew one of them before I sold the car (never measured travel unfortunately) but was very low. Never figured out why that strut failed.

    My current nice lach iX (Heidi) has Bilsteins and H&Rs. Ride quality was crap to begin with and I actually cut a dead spring off up front later on to offset the iX rake on the H&Rs. Ride quality didn't change, but it still isn't great.

    Long story short, it seems like we've all arrived at the same conclusion :D

    Race struts+sectioned housings = best combo for the iX.

    In regards to the axles popping out, I am in agreement with the worn diff concept. However, they popped out quite often on both the 4.10 and the 3.91 I had in there with multiple sets of axles so I'm still unsure, airing on the side of assuming both of my front diffs were worn.

    Even on the H&Rs, I snapped a long axle 3 miles after installing them (literally on the first test drive). Rebuilt axle (when axle express could still get parts for them) hasn't failed on me after the fact though. Point being, there is certainly an added stress there with lowering, so I think lowering/increasing CV angle at least makes the weak points a bit more obvious/exaggerated in regards to joints, boots, and/or diff wear.

    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    I cant seem to find the 8041-1289 rear struts. Are they just custom valved e30 sport for ground control?
    To my knowledge, yes. I called them about the same thing a while back and they told me they had them custom valved for the application. I, too couldn't find them. Glad you snagged the camber plates, that's a great choice that'll complete the package.

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by Chrisbike View Post
    This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.

    8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
    8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top Adjust
    I cant seem to find the 8041-1289 rear struts. Are they just custom valved e30 sport for ground control?

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by nando View Post
    also FWIW the worst ride quality of all was the Bilsteins that I had re-valved (by Bilstein). Unbelievably bad. I actually thought I was going to suffer from internal organ damage or something, and worst of all one of them blew apart in only a few months. HDs might be OK with stockish spring rates since they are so much softer, but beyond that I would never do Bilsteins again..
    Do you know if they used linear or progressive valving?
    A friend had Bilsteins custom valved for his Fiero, but built the shim stack for digressive valving. He says they're great.

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Well to sum this up for anyone who stumbles across this trying to decide which struts to run with ground control coils on the IX. I will be learning from nando's mistake/ trial and error and running the Koni 8610 1436 up front with my repaired rusted housings with tubes from rwd tig welded onto them and shortened 2.1" and running the koni Mr2 48x1.50 gland nut
    Last edited by dirtyEthirtyIX; 03-31-2018, 12:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    You can run the sports and not section the housings if you want a very minimal drop. Think H&R Sport level for the iX, which is 1.25" in the front. I wouldn't go any more than that, there simply isn't enough travel there to work with.

    I'd highly recommend going with the Races (make sure you buy the gland nuts), you'll be glad you did it in the long run (looks like you did).

    Nando never had any issues with axle boots or axles popping out when he was very low, but I did have quite a few issues with both so watch how low you go if your car is driven quite a bit. However, with the housings sectioned 2.1" for the struts you bought, you'll be able to go pretty damn low while still maintaining great travel up front.

    Also, it's a bit of an investment, but snagging the iX GC camber plates 'complete the package'.
    I still think the H&R Sports ride quality wasn't very good, even though the drop was modest. I mean, 24 year old me was willing to accept some level of punishment, but IMO it's not worth it. I actually thought the coilovers were an improvement in ride quality at the same height, just because the springs were stiffer and it didn't bottom out all the time.

    also think about it this way, I've redone my suspension like 5 times and ultimately arrived at the Koni Race and sectioned housings. You can just skip the pain and suffering. :)

    also FWIW the worst ride quality of all was the Bilsteins that I had re-valved (by Bilstein). Unbelievably bad. I actually thought I was going to suffer from internal organ damage or something, and worst of all one of them blew apart in only a few months. HDs might be OK with stockish spring rates since they are so much softer, but beyond that I would never do Bilsteins again..

    Leave a comment:


  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
    So I'll need to return the sports and buy some koni races if I want to go really low? Can the sports be run if I'm not going too low? I'd like a .75" drop total. Nando you should open a ix helpline so we can just call you with our IX problems.
    basically, not really - you end up with bad ride quality at pretty much any height lower than stock, assuming stock length strut housings. but with the race inserts you can at least still stay at stock height or nearly so if you like, or go really low.

    if you have CV shafts popping out of the diff it's probably a broken or missing retaining clip, or possibly even a worn diff. That's never happened to me in err, 16 years now..

    Leave a comment:


  • dirtyEthirtyIX
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    You can run the sports and not section the housings if you want a very minimal drop. Think H&R Sport level for the iX, which is 1.25" in the front. I wouldn't go any more than that, there simply isn't enough travel there to work with.

    I'd highly recommend going with the Races (make sure you buy the gland nuts), you'll be glad you did it in the long run (looks like you did).

    Nando never had any issues with axle boots or axles popping
    out when he was very low, but I did have quite a few issues with both so watch how low you go if your car is driven quite a bit. However, with the housings sectioned 2.1" for the struts you bought, you'll be able to go pretty damn low while still maintaining great travel up front.

    Also, it's a bit of an investment, but snagging the iX GC camber plates 'complete the package'.

    Already have the camber plates as well. I ordered them at the same time.;D

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    P/N for gland nuts:

    73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)
    Dam... I have a completely unrelated use for those that I may have to check out.

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • AWDBOB
    replied
    You can run the sports and not section the housings if you want a very minimal drop. Think H&R Sport level for the iX, which is 1.25" in the front. I wouldn't go any more than that, there simply isn't enough travel there to work with.

    I'd highly recommend going with the Races (make sure you buy the gland nuts), you'll be glad you did it in the long run (looks like you did).

    Nando never had any issues with axle boots or axles popping out when he was very low, but I did have quite a few issues with both so watch how low you go if your car is driven quite a bit. However, with the housings sectioned 2.1" for the struts you bought, you'll be able to go pretty damn low while still maintaining great travel up front.

    Also, it's a bit of an investment, but snagging the iX GC camber plates 'complete the package'.

    Leave a comment:

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