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is your ICV functioning?
When mine died, that's exactly what the car would do - start and then die.
it should 'humm' with the ignition turned on.Comment
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Yes it is functioning, i also did a resistance test on it. I have 2 spares as well to compare the results to, but i also hear it humming when i turn the ignition on. Also when i turn the ignition on the fuel pump is constantly running with the ignition on, is this normal?
Im a bit far from the naval research lab. Is that the one in chssapeake beach? I drive a service vehicle for work somi dont daily drive anything fun lolComment
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That's fun. My grandparents worked there in the 80s.
No, it's just south of the confluence of the Anacostia and the Potomac.
Edit: It really sounds like you missed something vital. If you have spark and fuel and air and no start... that doesnt make sense. Timing would have to be off a lot. I would take a decent bit back off. Take the cap and rotor off, unplug all the spark plug wires, take all the plugs out, take the air filter / AFM and intake boot off, make sure your fuel hoses aren't backwards, clean the injector harness connector with a rat tail file, and then start slowly putting everything back together. I mean slowly. Examine each piece, clean it, degrease it or dielectric grease or whatever it needs, and then see if you missed anything.Last edited by Kershaw; 12-10-2018, 04:53 PM.AWD > RWDComment
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I have had everything apart about 4 times now just to triple check timing. The only thing I could think of is that maybe the intake manifold gasket didnt seat right? I bought the genuine BMW ones so I'm not sure. The worst thing I can do is take it off and check. The bitch tube shouldn't be too hard to get off considering I just messed with it. It does moves almost effortlessly compared to before.
Also I would like to note that I did not disconnect the battery before performing the work on the car. I never turned the key on while anything was apart. But maybe removing sensor plugs while the battery was connected maybe messed with the DME/security of the car? I dont have an aftermarket security system I just dont know how intelligent the factory central locking system is.Last edited by RWD BLOWS; 12-11-2018, 02:17 AM.Comment
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No that is not normal. The fuel pump on the M20 should only run with the engine running. I'd be looking at the 3 relays next to the AFM (main relay, fuel pump, and O2 heater). In fact, if they are original I'd just replace them.
a vacuum leak won't stop the car from starting & running. Have you tried unplugging the AFM to see if it will at least idle? Have you checked the C102 (injector) harness to see if the pins are corroded?
How about the TPS? You said the stomp test is not working. I'm not sure your multimeter test is valid - if the stomp test doesn't work at the very least your TPS is out of adjustment.Comment
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I did not move those relays at any point. I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced by the previous owner. I have only had this car for about 2 months. The car will not idle with the AFM unplugged. My test on the TOS should be correct because I have continuity at the idle position and when the throttle body is just about WOT. I have 12 volts going to terminals 1 and 3 and the center pin being ground. I have inspected the fuel injector harness and everything looks really good nothing corroded or anything. And yes I cannot get the stomp test to work. I have tried it so many times following a youtube video and everything. Back to the fuel pump thing though I just thought it was weird that with the ignition in the ON position the fuel pump constantly runs. On every car I've ever had when turning the key to the ON position the fuel pump would come on then stop after it had build up pressure I guess.Comment
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Swapped master relay and fuel pump relay?Comment
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yeah, actually that makes a lot of sense. The fuel pump doesn't run with the engine off (M20s don't even prime until you crank, unlike most cars). Since the TPS checks out but the stomp test isn't working, I bet your DME isn't powering on.
Either the relays are bad, they're in the wrong spot, or both. At least, that's as good of a guess as any, and simple to check.Comment
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I will go ahead and change them since it's easy enough but I know I didnt have them backwards. The master relay is a 5 pin and the fuel pump is a 4 pin correct? Both of mine are green except for the third one on the right which is bad. I need to do some DME testing it's just hard by myself to be able to do everything that I need to do. I don't know anyone with experience with these things. What exactly do you mean by the DME not powering on? I tried to start the car with the main harness unplugged and I the car just cranked with no hopes of starting.Last edited by RWD BLOWS; 12-11-2018, 04:41 PM.Comment
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They should be white, orange, and orange (looking from the driver's side, left to right IIRC - but I could have it backwards). I have never seen a green FP relay on an E30 (they could be 30 year old originals). The main relay is definitely white with 5 pins.
The engine will crank even if the DME is not powered. But of course, it will not start.
I had an issue where the engine would cut power randomly - the car was still "on" but adding throttle did nothing. I tried everything, but in the end it turned out to be a bad main relay.Last edited by nando; 12-11-2018, 09:38 PM.Comment
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Okay that should help when ordering new relays. I will reference realoem as well for a part number if possible. Mine are as follows from left to right as looking at it from the drivers side fender. GREEN, GREEN, ORANGE.It also appears that someone took a five prong relay and cut the middle tab off to use it for the FP relay.Comment
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Yeah that sounds completely wrong. I would replace all of them and make sure the main relay is in the right location (I'm pretty sure it goes on the left).Comment
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