Looks great!  That Aircraft stripper shit is horrible, talk about needing ventilation and a mask.
							
						
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 waiting to see how the primer does. you have about a 50/50 chance of running into solvent pop issues and maybe fish eyes too.
 
 if you have not stripped everything else yet, i would get yourself a couple of cans of BUMPER STRIPPER. it is made not to soak in and contaiminate the plastic.
 
 hope it has not messed yours up!seien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen
 
 
 Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.Comment
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 It's fully stripped at this point, I was hoping to primer tonight. Anything I can do to help wash away remaining solvent besides a good scrub with dish detergant and water? I'll go over it with cleaner/prep spray and a thorough wipedown before spraying, but I'm nervous about what might have soaked in. Honestly it didn't even occur to me until you mentioned it.waiting to see how the primer does. you have about a 50/50 chance of running into solvent pop issues and maybe fish eyes too.
 
 if you have not stripped everything else yet, i would get yourself a couple of cans of BUMPER STRIPPER. it is made not to soak in and contaiminate the plastic.
 
 hope it has not messed yours up!Comment
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 the solvent pop will happen in the spots where you have sanded away the orginal top surface. so as long as you have not sanded the top to a fuzzy texture when the last paint job was done you have a chance. clean the crap out of it with soap and water then prep solv, and lastly windex. after that cross your fingers and shoot itseien Sie größer, als Sie erscheinen
 
 
 Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.Comment
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 I didn't do any of the prep or painting the last time it was done; I just took it to a very reputeable shop here in town and had them do it (they did a fantastic job, btw. It's held up excellently to rock chips and still looks good aside from a few hairline cracks on some of the sharper radii where the oil cooler cutouts are. I'm not sure what to make of them). I'm not sure if they sanded down the original top surface or not but I'm guessing they did; it was in awful shape when i brought it to them 2 years ago.the solvent pop will happen in the spots where you have sanded away the orginal top surface. so as long as you have not sanded the top to a fuzzy texture when the last paint job was done you have a chance. clean the crap out of it with soap and water then prep solv, and lastly windex. after that cross your fingers and shoot it
 
 It's been a few days with primer on it and so far no fisheyes. Lets hope it stays that way. I've got everything smoothed out and I'll be taking it to Active Autobody here in Portland to have it sprayed AWII tomorrow.
 
 I've also finished prepping and painting the new valance. It was bronzit so I hit it with a strong degreaser and sanded the top edge that sticks out between the grills and bumper (the only part of it you can see on a MtechII car) and hit the whole thing with 3 coats of self-etching primer. Once that had dried I lightly sanded that top edge with 600 grit, cleaned it all again and put down 3 coats of AWII I had mixed up in spray cans at the local Sherwin Williams Auto. It's a single-stage mix so I will skip the clear, 99% of it is totally hidden anyways so I'm not super worried about it. My only concern is, like I said, that 3/4" section betwen the grills and bumper that will be visible. I'm debating getting a can of 2-part catylizing clearcoat and shooting just that bit to add some protection.
 
 I'll put up some pics soon.Comment
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 Laying down the primer
 
 Sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime.....
  
 
 Took about 6 coats in the really scratched areas
  
 
 
 Picked up a straight, clean bronzit valance. First I degreased it thoroughly, then hit it with 3 coats of self-etching primer.
  
 
 I also sanded the top strip that pokes out between the grills and bumper with 600 grit so it will look better with the final paint
 
 First coat of AWII
  
 
 Second coat of AWII
  
 
 After the 3rd coat dried, I applied some Trim black around the openings, just like on the OEM valance
  
 
 Valance bolted up. It fit like a glove, every bolt hole aligned perfectly. So nice to know there was no other damage!
  
 
 Headlights, bumper and grills on
  
 
 Next step: Get Mtech painted professionally with good rock-ship resistant paint. Then install my new Gutenparts splitter and it's all good to go!Comment
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 I thought I was the ony one. I will supply the golf clubs.
 
 Oh, shitty deal D. I know you bought a valance, but I have an extra that I have been hording from when I had mtech's. Its minty fresh. Let me know if you need it. I will make you a deal.** Lot's of M20 turbo parts for sale.**
 
   
 
 Turn key track car.
 
 http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=222066Comment
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 Do you mean the sheet metal valance or the mtech valance?Comment
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 nice progress darin. I always liked how they black the valance in spots so white does not poke through when installed.
 
 props.Comment
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 Great job on the fix. That's the good thing about the facelift valance, just bolts in and out. What was done about the fender? Did you replace it or bend it back?"I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj
 
 85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
 88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
 89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
 91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER
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