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    #1

    How much rust is too much rust...

    ....to fix? I just picked up a lachsilber 88 325is. Nice car, 180k, all stock, dealership serviced by original owner for 20 years with all receipts. I paid 2k. But it has rust.

    Rusty areas: wheel wells and arches, rockers, rear valence, a little on the trunk lip and a spot around the tails. Only thing that clearly needs to be cut and welded is the rear valence, and probably at least one of the rockers, though I hear these are available from the aftermarket?

    I'm tempted to try to prep the little things myself and send it off to a body shop for paint and the major repairs, but I've never done body work before. Wondering if it's worth it to fix the car? I planned on having it painted anyway. Also the car lived in PA for 20 years but is now in SC, so it's out of the rust belt. I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow.
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    #2
    I'd go one of two ways here.

    Buy the car right down the road from you in Charleston in the FS section, and then sell yours. I haven't looked at it, but if it's been in that area it's whole life, it's going to have less rust.

    or,

    Build your car the way you want and drive it for a while, then buy another straight body and transfer all your stuff to it and have a parts car.

    Rust rebuild and body repair will drive the price up on the car to well above what you could buy a clean southeast car for. Unless you are willing to tackle the rust repair yourself, OR keep the car forever.

    Personally, I view rusty cars as disposable bodies. Drive it for a while and find one 100% rust free. I live in NC and bought a car from Ohio sight unseen (Carfax had it in Md until last year). I had it checked by a BMW tech and they're telling me it's not rusted so I'm good. I'll need to check it myself when I get it back home.

    If you want inspiration to fix it, search for the thread "Minor Rust Repair" LOL.
    Originally posted by FunfGan
    My car is so racecar it makes peoples head's hurt. Literally.
    Originally posted by lambo
    This is r3v, your logic is useless. We went race-prepped, factory-built, street cars for the price of a loaf of bread.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by J308 View Post
      I'd go one of two ways here.

      Buy the car right down the road from you in Charleston in the FS section, and then sell yours. I haven't looked at it, but if it's been in that area it's whole life, it's going to have less rust.

      or,

      Build your car the way you want and drive it for a while, then buy another straight body and transfer all your stuff to it and have a parts car.

      Rust rebuild and body repair will drive the price up on the car to well above what you could buy a clean southeast car for. Unless you are willing to tackle the rust repair yourself, OR keep the car forever.

      Personally, I view rusty cars as disposable bodies. Drive it for a while and find one 100% rust free. I live in NC and bought a car from Ohio sight unseen (Carfax had it in Md until last year). I had it checked by a BMW tech and they're telling me it's not rusted so I'm good. I'll need to check it myself when I get it back home.

      If you want inspiration to fix it, search for the thread "Minor Rust Repair" LOL.
      I saw the "minor" rust repair thread and it's not something I'm going to do myself. Scary.

      The Charleston car is nice but Bronzit...not my thing. I was planning on getting this one painted anyway so I don't think that 5-600 bucks of rust repair is going to swing me to another car.

      On the other hand, I found a fist sized hole straight through the rear floor pan last night, and that's scary.

      Talking to a local guy about getting an estimate, then going to a couple of body shops to get opinions.

      Comment

        #4
        Rust through the floor pan? Sell.

        And that's not just because of the bodywork. But just think of everything else that is rusted to hell and back. Brake lines, fuel lines, fuel filter, every single nut and bolt under the car....
        AWD > RWD

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by mikeb23ft View Post
          I saw the "minor" rust repair thread and it's not something I'm going to do myself. Scary.

          The Charleston car is nice but Bronzit...not my thing. I was planning on getting this one painted anyway so I don't think that 5-600 bucks of rust repair is going to swing me to another car.

          On the other hand, I found a fist sized hole straight through the rear floor pan last night, and that's scary.

          Talking to a local guy about getting an estimate, then going to a couple of body shops to get opinions.
          Maybe I'm just used to Datsuns which rust from the inside out, but from what you described, it's going to be a LOT more than 5-600 bucks worth of rust repair. Usually when I hear "rust" I'm assuming it has already rusted through, and needs replacement mental.

          I agree with the others that you should just get a clean shell.

          Comment

            #6
            Well this is a bummer. I don't think it will be hard to get what I've got in it back out...but still a bummer. Car runs and drives nice. At least now I know I definitely want an E30.

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              #7
              This is the undercarriage rust and the rear valence. Not pictured are the rockers, rear wheel arches, wheel well, and the minor stuff around the trunk and tails...and God only knows what else, at this point. Worth getting out of the car and finding a straight one?


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                #8
                Its a PA car, you'll probably keep finding more and more rust as you tare into the car.

                1992 BMW 325iC
                1978 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
                1965 Chevrolet Corvair Monza 140hp

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                  #9
                  Just disappointed, thought I had found a car that I really wanted to stick with after several years of driving a busted LeSabre and hating it.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    It's not the end of the world. I've seen a couple rot repairs on various e30 forums done with fiberglass by people who don't have access to a welder or have the desire to cut and weld.

                    Plus, you could always drive it while looking for a clean body.
                    Originally posted by FunfGan
                    My car is so racecar it makes peoples head's hurt. Literally.
                    Originally posted by lambo
                    This is r3v, your logic is useless. We went race-prepped, factory-built, street cars for the price of a loaf of bread.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      You've got years left on that car even if you don't touch the rust.
                      No E30 Club
                      Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                      Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Also it's not in the rust belt anymore so I hope that even if I don't fix it properly some POR15 will essentially stop it.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          That is not that bad. If you are really afraid of rust repair, you can POR-15 it, but that rot is not that bad. Just get a grinder, grind it out, and hit it with some rusty metal primer.
                          IMG_0145 by Jonathan Martin, on Flickr

                          Comment

                            #14
                            just dont fix it. just rock it as a DD and be happy.

                            and continue to look for a super clean e30.
                            AWD > RWD

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by KI4UJO View Post
                              That is not that bad. If you are really afraid of rust repair, you can POR-15 it, but that rot is not that bad. Just get a grinder, grind it out, and hit it with some rusty metal primer.
                              Could I do that with a Dremel? I don't have air tools.

                              Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                              just dont fix it. just rock it as a DD and be happy.

                              and continue to look for a super clean e30.
                              This may be a more realistic approach in reality. I'm going to try to fix a couple of lil' spots, but if that goes poorly I might say :wgaf:

                              Comment

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