E30 Rivet-on Overfenders

[IronFreak]

I appreciate everyones support on this, and I hope we can come together as a community and put positive as well as negative criticism into this project and actually have a few options for an affordable price.

:pimp:

This is key!!

[CrisMac]

This is key!!

While I'm gone for next month I will draw up some designs, and try to remain factory body lines while pushing the fenders outwards....

what would be really awesome if I could have them pressed into a sheet metal mold and have the factory mounting points implemented.:-o

[jalopi]

You'd probably be better off molding your flare onto the stock fender, then taking the whole thing off and make a fiberglass fender. I have no knowledge of the sheet metal stamping industry, but I imagine getting that set up would be incredibly expensive.

Within the next few weeks I'll have an air compressor coming in, so I'll be able to use all my old tools again (whiz wheel, grinder, ect) and I think I'm gonna try to tackle what that e28 guy did - just for reference again, this is what I'm talking about:

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=67418

I think this kind of wheel fitment is ideally what we're all after here. My only concern is that my experience with body work is kind of limited... I assume a whiz wheel will suffice for cutting the fenders and quarters? Think I'll test with a fender first since it'd be so much easier to replace.

Anyone know what gauge the sheet metal is? The measuring tool that came with my welder is a bit loose on 20 gauge but won't go on with the 22 slot... so somewhere around 20-22 gauge (this is for the front fender). I've heard the quarters use thicker or doubled metal or something like that... in any case, I've never had to weld something so thin. Think I'm gonna have to get gas and MIG that... don't see welding that ending well with flux wire.

[CrisMac]

Nice that e28 is freaking cool! I wish I had the funds to build that type of project, He did those fenders very well and they came out great....Ideas are floating in my head like crazy now..

And as for welding the sheet metal....I would not touch it with a MIG. Unless your power settings go extremely low, I would TIG it. I tried to weld my fender (For the hell of it) and on the lowest power setting it burned a hole through it.

[Eric]

Ill have to read the thread about the quality of it...I looks good to me. just looks M3ish to me, not a bad thing just my take on them.

I would also like to differ on not fitting 275 up front with wider fenders, Im sure with the correct offset you can run 10.5 up front, unless when turning the tires hit the suspension or something, then its a matter of spacers..... I have 8.5 up front with a 5mm spacer and I'm still inside the fender with stock camber (I have stretched tires but my lip is still inside the fender)...get e46 control arms and 5mm spacers to push the track out further (Under $70)....should be ok then..and add quite a bit more angle..

Huge difference between 8.5 and 10.5!

I'm running 17x10.5 with 275/40/17's and it doesn't fit at all. I had to hack the hell out of the DTM fender flares, and that was already after hacking the fenders up and cutting the front bumper and hammering the shit out of the firewall so I could actually turn the car. It's still terrible.

My car sits in the garage for 360 days out of the year and it still sucks. It would be ludicrous to put 275's on something that is semi-regularly driven.

[AndrewBird]

For the record, sheet metal is easy to weld if you know what you are doing. Beginner welders may have problems, but otherwise it isn't hard, even with flux core. Smaller wire will be easier than larger, so I suggest using .025 solid wire if available.

They even make timers for some MIG machines that allows you to make consistent spot welds. Just pull the trigger and it shuts off at the time you have it set for.

[CrisMac]

For the record, sheet metal is easy to weld if you know what you are doing. Beginner welders may have problems, but otherwise it isn't hard, even with flux core. Smaller wire will be easier than larger, so I suggest using .025 solid wire if available.

They even make timers for some MIG machines that allows you to make consistent spot welds. Just pull the trigger and it shuts off at the time you have it set for.

haha My "initial" weld on my fender went horribly wrong, I guess skill will come over time, I should go buy some of the same gauge the fenders are made from and just tack spots and run small beads to see what I can get away with.

[jalopi]

They even make timers for some MIG machines that allows you to make consistent spot welds. Just pull the trigger and it shuts off at the time you have it set for.

That's pretty cool, but I don't think I'll spend the extra money on that - I'd rather get a bottle, regulator and solid wire first. Considering the gauge of the sheet metal, what's a safe amount to weld at a time? 1/4" or so?

For reference, this is what I'm working with:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...7703_200447703

[Madhatter]

literally dots. Any more and you'll warp/pull the metal.

[jalopi]

so... grab a test fender from the junkyard is what you're saying

[Madhatter]

if you haven't welded one before, then, yes, get used to welding such thin sheet metal.

Too much heat will warp the panel around where you are welding, but the bigger problem is it will want to twist/pull the metal across the guard (fender) too, so you'll probably end up with a guard lip that has a wave in it too instead of a nice constant curve.