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Best way to prep rubberized texture for paint?

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    Best way to prep rubberized texture for paint?

    We're leaving the rubberized undercoating on my late-model rear valence when we put it on, but I'm still going to be painting it black to match the bumpers and the rest of the car. What's the best way to prep the paint that's over the rubberized stuff to get it ready for primer? I would think sanding, but sanding it is only going to get the raised bumps, and not the whole surface. In order to get the whole surface, I'd have to sand it smooth. Would it be ok to just clean the surface REALLY well, and then shoot the primer?

    #2
    Anyone...

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      #3
      best way? take it off. just get a solvent for rubber and pour it on and scrape off. i always wanted a detexured rear valence.
      IG: @Baye30

      FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

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        #4
        Originally posted by golde30 View Post
        best way? take it off. just get a solvent for rubber and pour it on and scrape off. i always wanted a detexured rear valence.
        We're not de-texturing it. The rear apron is one of the parts that's going to take the most abuse from road debris, flying up from the rear tires.

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          #5
          Just wash it off with a hose so all the big crap is off, and then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and a towel. I just repainted all my rockers and the lower rear valance and that method worked perfectly.

          RISING EDGE

          Let's drive fast and have fun.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Digitalwave View Post
            Just wash it off with a hose so all the big crap is off, and then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and a towel. I just repainted all my rockers and the lower rear valance and that method worked perfectly.
            Did you prime it first? Should I use primer on mine? We're painting the whole thing.

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              #7
              I didn't prime it, I've never had adhesion problems with the undercoated sections of the car.

              RISING EDGE

              Let's drive fast and have fun.

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                #8
                Josh, I would buy some foam sanding pads (the type that are like a sponge with sandpaper on one side. We can use this to pre-sand the surface without worrying about the bumps. We only need to slighty skuff the paint, not take it off to primer.

                While other have had success not using primer and not pre-sanding, I think it would be a good idea and, with the parts off the car, not much more work. It's just good insurance against future wear and tear on the paint.

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                  #9
                  wipe it down with acetone (and let it evaporate off) before spraying


                  .
                  -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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                    #10
                    red scotch brite pad. scuff, thoroughly clean with wax and grease remover, prime and paint.

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                      #11
                      you could try shooting it w/ a remote sand blaster from a distance, I don't think that would hurt the texture.
                      ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

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                        #12
                        The guy at the paint supply place we went to today recomended hitting the surface with a grey (light grit) scotch-brite pad with hot, soapy water. He also said primer is not needed, however, we will be spraying any and all bare metal edges to prevent any kind of rust.

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                          #13
                          I used grey scotch brite on my front valance. We use it alot in the body shop industry as well. As long as there is no chips in it. I would just scuff, seal and paint.
                          :: PNW Crew ::
                          '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

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