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    Wetsanding/colorsanding new paint?

    As posted in my Project: Facelift thread, Andrew and I painted my new front valence and bumpers today. There are a few areas that are going to need wetsanding and some light work, but I'm wondering about doing the work on brand-new paint. I know that you are supposed to wait 30 days after new paint to cut and polish it, and I think it's another 30 days before you can wax it.

    My friend Evan that did the cut & polish on my whole care before is going to do the polish and wax when the time comes, but my question is, can I wet/colorsand the paint now, or do I have to wait the 30 days for it to fully dry/harden? I don't want to fuck up brand-new paint, especially since it came out so good, and on top of that, if I wetsand it now, I don't really want to leave it all hazy and exposed for 30 days until Evan can polish and wax it, especially since we're getting into fall weather.

    Would I be better of just to wait the 30 days until we can polish it, and do the wetsanding right before that? Also, can anyone point me to some good online tutorials or sites for wet/colorsanding?

    Thanks!

    #2
    Josh, I have found that nothing brings out misinformation quite like painting a car.

    Call the manufacturer of the paint.

    Luke

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
      Call the manufacturer of the paint.
      That's what I said. Well, I said to ask the guys where he got the paint, but same thing. ;)

      Comment


        #4
        Good call guys. I went down there today, and they told me that I could polish and wax after just a week! They also told me I could wetsand it anytime.

        So, back to my other question, does anyone know of any good sites with tips or tutorials on doing a good wetsand job? I don't want to mess it up!

        Comment


          #5
          Josh, get a bucket and a hose and some sandpaper...1000 grit, then 1500 grit, then, if ya wanna be a freek, gopher the 2000 grit.

          Keep it wet, keep it clean. Spray bottle is not a bad idea. Don't let it make a paste, rinse it. Go slow, use your hands. Blow it dry with your air compressor, NOT a towel.

          Use nothing but top quality sandpaper. I prefer 3M, but it is steep.

          Luke

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
            Josh, get a bucket and a hose and some sandpaper...1000 grit, then 1500 grit, then, if ya wanna be a freek, gopher the 2000 grit.

            Keep it wet, keep it clean. Spray bottle is not a bad idea. Don't let it make a paste, rinse it. Go slow, use your hands. Blow it dry with your air compressor, NOT a towel.

            Use nothing but top quality sandpaper. I prefer 3M, but it is steep.

            Luke
            sound about right. :up: I can't emphasize "clean" enough
            Sold my Sepang Bronze 1990 325is and miss it already

            Comment


              #7
              You might need to start with corser grit paper and work your way up. I wouldn't go any courser then 600 though. And don't jumpe from 600 to 1200, go in steps like 600, 800, 1200, 1500, etc...

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver View Post
                You might need to start with corser grit paper and work your way up. I wouldn't go any courser then 600 though. And don't jumpe from 600 to 1200, go in steps like 600, 800, 1200, 1500, etc...
                Knowing "Joshie", I bet that paint is laid down pretty smooth...Start with 800, then go to 600 and back on up if you have to.

                Imma wetsand my sons car after rollerpainting it with 600 on a DA! Bwaaahaaha!

                "No Sir, that not Bondo, just thick paint!"

                Luke

                Closing SOON!
                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Just use 1200.
                  BimmerHeads
                  Classic BMW Specialists
                  Santa Clarita, CA

                  www.BimmerHeads.com

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                    Knowing "Joshie", I bet that paint is laid down pretty smooth...
                    I'm the one who sprayed it, so I would know too. :)

                    Start with high grit and work to corser until you get something that works well and doesn't take forever to get the paint flat. Then work your way back up until the finish is perfect.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Why does it need wet sanding? There several reasons possible: dirt, orange peel, runs, and normal texture of clear cloat is just not slick enough for a few. Hoprfully you start with 1000 grit. If you have to start with 600 it's a lot more work. I had my car repainted last fall and it was color sanded before it left the shop. It's slick on the flat panels and still has a slight orange peel texture on the vertical surfaces as was done originally on a lot of European cars in the 80's.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The guy that painted my truck had me wait 8 days to bring it back for the color sand/polish. It is amazing what they can do.

                        The paint looked weird before the final process and he assured me it would be fine after the color sand/polish. I did not believe him but figured I had to wait and see. It came out great and he was 100% right.

                        Good luck on the project and HURRY UP so we can see the final results!

                        lol

                        [IMG]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z.com-vbulletin/550x225/80-parkerbsig_5096690e71d912ec1addc4a84e99c374685fc03 8.jpg[/IMG

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by 1991 318is View Post
                          Why does it need wet sanding? There several reasons possible: dirt, orange peel, runs, and normal texture of clear cloat is just not slick enough for a few.
                          This is single-stage paint, and the reason for the wet sanding is there's a couple of spots of light orange-peel, some particles in the paint, and some areas where it's just slightly dull, nothing major. I just want to get it nice and smooth, and in a week or 2, my friend Evan is going to buff and polish it for me.

                          Thanks for the advice on the wet sanding. I don't think I want to start with something as high-grit as 600, I'll probably start with about 800.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I really wouldnt start that low. I wetsanded/buffed my whole e30 after it was painted with 1500 after a couple days and that worked great. 800 is way too rough. In the body shop industry we only use 1000 on big runs and 1500 and 2000 just getting rid of some dirt/orange peal. Make sure you buff with a foam pad or black with swirl REALLY bad..it probably will anyways. You just have to keep on machine/hand glazing untill it is gone. You still don't want to hand wax it untill the paint is cured after about a month or two.
                            :: PNW Crew ::
                            '87 325 4dr, '74 2002

                            Comment


                              #15
                              sand past 2000 to 2500 and 3000. I dont have many posts here but this is one thing I really know. Ive been a detailer at abody shop for 3 years and wetsand and buff EVERYDAY.
                              On single stage paint wetsanding is a little weird. The paper get the color of the paint really quick but the benefit is single stage buffs out really nice. Start with 1000 or 1500(depending on the severity of the flaw) and work down. Then buff and polish. Im sure you know be carful around the edges. Id amagine you painted the parts in a booth and baked the paint after application so it should be fine to sand when your ready.
                              Good luck.
                              Feel free to ask any questions.
                              "Edit" saw you painted in your garage you might want to wait a few day




                              Hunter
                              Last edited by BUDNUNTA; 10-24-2006, 05:07 PM.
                              We're out there in here.

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