G*ddamn Shadowlining

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  • GopherBrain
    Member
    • Jan 2007
    • 47

    #1

    G*ddamn Shadowlining

    I did an off-the-car shadoline job last weekend. Took out the trim, sanded it good w/ 600 grit paper, hit it with SEM self-etching primer, and covered it with SEM trim paint. It looked PERFECT. I let it dry for 24 hours and put it in the car.

    Today, I get home from work and see multiple postage sized areas where the paint has come off, revealing shiny chrome. I wanted to scream. The worst part is that one of the areas is on the rear side window of my 1991 2-door (without popouts). That window was a BITCH to remove and paint.

    Where did I go wrong?
    sigpic
    1988 M3 - Summer Toy
    1991 325i - Soon to be sold...
    2001 Audi B5 S4 Avant - Daily Driver
  • FredK
    R3V OG
    • Oct 2003
    • 14747

    #2
    Did you scuff the chrome first, so that it had a dull finish?

    Comment

    • browntown
      No R3VLimiter
      • Jun 2004
      • 3524

      #3
      I think I might just go ghetto, and use the shadowline tape on my volvo as a guineau pig.

      Comment

      • td325ic
        Mod Crazy
        • Feb 2006
        • 772

        #4
        Originally posted by GopherBrain
        multiple postage sized areas where the paint has come off, revealing shiny chrome.
        If the chrome is still shiny then it probably didn't get scuffed enough before paint. Also 600grit may not be giving the paint enough of a bite. You could try 320 or 400 instead before you do primer.

        Make sure the surface has been cleaned with wax and grease remover and had time to evaporate before your first coat. I'd also try an adhesion promoter as well such as Bulldog Adhesion Promoter.

        If all else fails then perhaps getting them powder coated satin black is an option as well.

        Good luck, keep us updated.

        -edit- I was just reading that a Zinc Chromate Primer is best for proper adhesion with aluminum. Anyone have any experience with Zinc Chromate Primer? It looks like it can be bought at marine supply stores.
        Last edited by td325ic; 03-22-2007, 08:16 PM.

        Comment

        • nando
          Moderator
          • Nov 2003
          • 34827

          #5
          I didn't primer mine at all and it's held up fine. there are some tiny pits from rock chips but no big flakes.. just scuffed and cleaned and then shot them with SEM trim paint.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment

          • White Nightmare
            Grease Monkey
            • Jul 2006
            • 376

            #6
            I wonder if primer is even necessary with this kind of paint. Is it possible that this trim specific paint doesn't need primer ?? Sorry if this sounds dumb. I just thought it might be a possibility.

            -Chris
            Big Brain- "The big brain am winning again! I am the greetest! Now I am leaving earth for no raison!"

            - California Certified Smog Technician -

            Comment

            • jflip2002
              R3V Elite
              • Sep 2006
              • 4377

              #7
              Though the trim specific paint is for "trim", I dont think its for this kind of trim. Its for a flat trim, I believe. I couldnt get anything to stick either really. The krylon plastic fusion paint worked ok, the best actually ended up being the dupli-color wheel coating. It comes out a little rough, so I sprayed one coat, sanded it smooth, then used any black after that.
              Originally posted by blunt
              i would jerk larry king off while tonging jflips ass if h0lmes would blow his head off

              Comment

              • bastianshaw
                R3VLimited
                • Jan 2007
                • 2210

                #8
                1.remove trim
                2.scuff the shit out of trim
                3.self-etching primer
                4.FILLER PRIMER!
                5.black

                Comment

                • erik325i
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Jan 2005
                  • 3567

                  #9
                  The best solution is to buy the 318is trim. You won't have a problem with it flaking off.

                  ohh, I just realized you are up in the city. I think I still have a set of 318is rear quarter windows that already have the black trim...

                  -Erik

                  Comment

                  • AndrewBird
                    The Mad Scientist
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 11892

                    #10
                    ^^^ What he said. 318is trim is the way to go. You could try painting them again, but do you really want to go through the hassle of all that just to have to do it again later?

                    You could also get them powder coated. ;)

                    Comment

                    • 87Blue325iC
                      E30 Enthusiast
                      • Apr 2006
                      • 1111

                      #11
                      I did exactly what you did - removed trim, scuffed (until trim was dull), self-etch primer, SEM trim paint. Held up fine for about 6 months until I got the bright idea to use blue painters tape to mask off the trim while I was cleaning/polishing/waxing the car. It pulled spots up all over the trim. I used paint stripper, cleaned off all the old paint. Resanded, re primed with self-etch, then repainted with SEM Trim. Has held up about 8 months with no problems - through a very rough Ohio winter (road salt, etc).
                      Aaron

                      Comment

                      • 87Blue325iC
                        E30 Enthusiast
                        • Apr 2006
                        • 1111

                        #12
                        Follow-up - what was the air temp when you painted the trim?
                        Aaron

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