Searching around it seems that the lowest coded ign. cyl. are NLA, the others seems to be available, so it depends which code you have and you may be lucky.
As far as I can tell, the 4 digit codes are cars without deadlock in the driver's door. All of them are compatible with E30, E28, E24.
32321153046 Code 1.001-2.900 (NLA)
32329069307 Code 3.001 ->
32329069308 Code 10.001 ->
32329069309 Code 40.001 ->
Also, I took out my old passenger door lock today and swapped in the new one. The old one was missing one of the wafers (same situation on driver's side), so someone definitely tried rebuilding them in the past and didn't have the correct wafers. My hope is that they bought a used set of locks and rebuilt based on the key and the key fit the ignition, that way all locks would be the same as the VIN coded ignition. Should find out this week.
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E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread
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Originally posted by george graves View PostDidn't know blunttech did that! Awesome.
I would ask, I dont think the e30 locks, keys or ignition are specific to the e30 and were in a ton of cars from the time period and are more likely to still be available.
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I just ordered a VIN Coded ignition cylinder in March 2019 from Blunttech.
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Originally posted by Fusion View PostI guess my best bet is to order the ignition lock based on the VIN and the cheapest key.
Either It won't match and I'll just use the new key to start (installed remote entry anyways) or I'll be lucky and it matches and I can use the master key to start.
Screw trying to rebuild it, too much hassle.
Thanks for your help guys.
Btw: Holding the new driver side lock (pic top left) in my hand, I can deadlock it, but I can't pull the key out in the deadlock position (90°). Is this normal? Not that I really need it, was just trying it out because the previous lock was broken and I never used it so I have no idea how that one worked.
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Yes you should be able to pull the key from the drivers door in deadbolt position. The mechanism is a bit complicated though. You may have one of the parts in the wrong orientation.
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I guess my best bet is to order the ignition lock based on the VIN and the cheapest key.
Either It won't match and I'll just use the new key to start (installed remote entry anyways) or I'll be lucky and it matches and I can use the master key to start.
Screw trying to rebuild it, too much hassle.
Thanks for your help guys.
Btw: Holding the new driver side lock (pic top left) in my hand, I can deadlock it, but I can't pull the key out in the deadlock position (90°). Is this normal? Not that I really need it, was just trying it out because the previous lock was broken and I never used it so I have no idea how that one worked.Last edited by Fusion; 06-11-2019, 05:41 PM.
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That is definitely the worst case scenario
1) order the master key by VIN, rebuild the non-ignition locks
2) order the ignition lock by VIN if your new key doesn’t work
@Fusion needs to do step 2 first, but will end up in the same place eventually.
The only alternative to a single common key is buying the full lock set, but I checked yesterday and it was showing NLA. You could also buy a used lock set but that’s just delaying the inevitable
This is the full lock set (from post 31 of this thread)
Last edited by bradnic; 06-11-2019, 07:06 PM.
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I just had to do something similar. Just bought a new to me e30 with only 1 key. Bought a new set of keys based on VIN and found that the new keys didn't match the old one and didnt work in the car so my car was rekeyed for some reason. I was able to order a new ignition cylinder to match the VIN and then rebuilt the other locks to match the new keys.
I think that is the only way to do it.
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I totally get it. But you just don't need the ignition lock code if you can prove ownership of the vehicle. Unlike door glovebox and trunk locks, BMW won't sell you a repair kit for an ignition lock either - they expect you to replace your key with a new coded one if it's worn.
Unless you have reason to believe your ignition lock cylinder was changed the VIN lookup for your key will be fine. If there are 4 lock core types (and your post certainly shows that), then the dealer will have a way to determine the right core for your car based on VIN lookup.
more info on that here https://itstillruns.com/key-codes-ve...s-7455733.html
EDIT: Confirmed there are 4 different ignition locks based on code range. I posted about the ignition lock in detail earlier in the thread - see post 31
If for some reason it was changed either your ignition key would be different from the rest of the car or all looks would have been swapped out with those of a complete lock set. I believe the E30 lock set is NLA now. Just seems extremely unlikely given the cost and effort involved.Last edited by bradnic; 06-10-2019, 07:42 PM.
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Originally posted by bradnic View PostPlease post pics so we can see what you’ve got
Originally posted by bradnic View PostWhat’s the issue?
Originally posted by bradnic View PostThe codes were attached to the keys when the car was delivered. An individual owner can therefor know their own code for their car, but not any random code.
I’m not sure I understand the concern. You can only order a coded key if you can prove you own the vehicle in question. I’d say it’s highly unlikely an ignition lock has been swapped, or even rebuilt.
Under 4] there's 4 versions of coded locks. One of my local BMW parts resellers offers these (original) part numbers, so I thought (maybe I'm wrong) that you can order the barrel based on the code.
Worst case scenario, I can order based on VIN. But if it was the wrong coding, I'd have just the barrel without the correct key (only part num 32 32 1 152 474 comes with a key, I guess this is a random coded lock with key). So I would have to rebuild the barrels, which sucks because of the way the black ring requires being damaged to rebuild.
Originally posted by bradnic View PostIf you could reverse engineer the ordering code based on inspecting the locks, then anyone with access to a lock could order keys.
I just had new keys made last week (the ones in the image), and they work in the barrel as well. The problem is that the barrel can't be fixed and I want a new barrel to match the keys and door locks I just spent over $200 on.Last edited by Fusion; 06-10-2019, 01:56 PM.
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Originally posted by Fusion View PostOk so keys were bought, cut. Locks rebuilt.
Originally posted by Fusion View PostNow I have a problem with the ignition barrel
Originally posted by Fusion View PostDoes anyone know how to get the "CODE" of the locks based on the wafer numbers?
Originally posted by Fusion View PostI don't know if my car has original locks and am afraid to order based on VIN.
Originally posted by Fusion View PostI do know all the wafer numbers, and the barrel can be ordered with the key code. But I have no idea how to get that code. Any ideas?
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AFAIK you cannot order an individually coded ignition lock. You can get a new key set, but not a custom/specifically coded ignition lock. If I’m wrong on that I hope someone posts a correction.
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Ok so keys were bought, cut. Locks rebuilt.
Now I have a problem with the ignition barrel.
Does anyone know how to get the "CODE" of the locks based on the wafer numbers?
I don't know if my car has original locks and am afraid to order based on VIN.
I do know all the wafer numbers, and the barrel can be ordered with the key code. But I have no idea how to get that code. Any ideas?
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