E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread

[bradnic]

Interesting. Any chance you can post the part number that shows up on your invoice? All the coded keys I ordered came as the headless steel ones (wallet key - see post 5 and first post). Maybe it's my local dealers service department doing things differently than yours

As to getting the shorter key for an E30, if the deadbolt lock is working then pretty much by definition you have a standard length key.. Either your deadbolt isn't working or you have a standard length key that can reach the extra tumblers..

[Semblance]

32321109801 Standard Key (no plastic bits)


Haven't confirmed the valet key blank part number, but I think it's either this standard key or just a shorter version of it.

I can (unfortunately) confirm that for you. Just ordered a new coded key, they sent me the standard one (so no, it's not NLA) and it's shorter and doesn't insert into the trunk or glovebox.

It does, however, engage the double-lock on my drivers door, no problem.

[bradnic]

The valet key blanks arrived! They're definitely legit.


Here's the full set of key blanks now, plus a coded wallet key


Confirmed the valet key blank does not fit the trunk lock or glove box lock. You can see why - it has taller notches on the blank. It's definitely NOT thicker though, so that info was definitely wrong. btw the wallet key in this pic is brand new, so there's no wear on it.


The blank is also shorter than a master key, as expected.

[bradnic]

You really should research the keys you already ordered.. You can order a coded ignition lock for about $30.. If the keys you ordered match then just rebuild your locks with the repair kits...

[bradnic]

I'd get one driver, one pass/trunk and one glove box kit. You should have enough springs and inserts for everything with that

[2mAn]

Yea my plan is to buy the VIN matched ignition, then re-key the doors, trunk and glovebox to match the VIN keys.

So, I would need to buy two rebuild kits?

Driver-door 51-21-9-061-343.

Pass door, glovebox and trunk , 51-21-9-556-313. Do I need 3 of these?

[bradnic]

Ignition lock

So the ignition lock is a special case - no rebuild kit for it that I've found. Removal and install are really easy - DIY here. You have 2 options around rebuilding a worn ignition lock cylinder:

1) order a coded lock cylinder brand new from the dealer that matches your current car. part number for this is 32-32-1-153-046

2) buy a new ignition lock plus key that does not match your doors, trunk, glovebox etc, part number 32-32-1-152-474. Live with the extra key or rebuild your current door locks to match the new key.


Obviously if you do the latter you can't order dealer coded keys anymore :-)

Both part numbers above appear to be good for all E30, E28 and E24. Here's the realoem page for the air bag car ignition lock (part 4 in the diagram - the 307,308,and 309 part numbers appear to be NLA).



UPDATE: FCP Euro blog has an 80s mercedes ignition lock replacement post. Procedure should be pretty much identical.

[2mAn]

I think Im going to have to rebuild my locks, and I believe they have been changed at some point. Probably going to buy a factory VIN cut ignition, and rebuold the door locks myself. Not sure about the trunk lock though

edit: The keys I got match each other, just not the one on my car, so I think my car is the problem. Id rather have VIN matching keys...

[bradnic]

Repair and Replacement Kit Part Numbers

Interesting.. I thought the "Standard" key was NLA.. post 21 shows how I found them on ebay.

If you ordered a CODED factory key, AND if BMW's records aren't messed up, AND if you're locks weren't swapped out at some point, then you WILL get a brand new properly cut key. I ordered coded keys for 3 different E30s, and all have worked for me.

There could be a PROBLEM though if your locks are worn. First one to go is the driver's lock for obvious reasons - it's used the most. Rebuilding the driver's lock is very easy, and the repair kit is not expensive.

So:
1) MAKE SURE the key you received is really wrong - compare it to your current keys. If the new key looks mostly the same just not worn, then a door lock rebuild will likely resolve.

2) If they DON'T look the same then you have some choices to make (see below)

Here's a GREAT diy for the driver's door lock (which includes the deadbolt function) - about 1.8MM views!. You need to buy this kit, 51-21-9-061-343. Costs about $19:



There are other lock rebuild kits as well (ignition, trunk and passenger, glove box)

Here's a pic for the other repair kit shown on the realoem front lock page, 51-21-9-556-313. This is the passenger and trunk lock cylinder replacement kit (there's no deadbolt function with this lock cylinder):


And here's the glove box latch repair kit that includes the glove box cylinder 51-16-9-061-387:


So going back to your original problem, if the dealer ordered coded key comes back and it doesn't match your current keys, you have a few options:

1) figure out if BMW's records are hosed, and haggle for correct keys
2) rebuild your locks using the kits above. you can insert the new keys into a driver's door lock cylinder and figure out which metal bits are needed. Write those down and keep them safe.
3) hit the salvage yard or ebay for a complete replacement lock set. you won't be able to order coded keys for this option, but you can still order steel key blanks. You may end up rebuilding them anyway though.

EDIT: You can also replace ALL your locks with brand new parts by ordering 51-21-1-904-727. THEY WILL NOT BE KEYED LIKE YOUR ORIGINAL KEYS THOUGH. Comes with the full set of 4 BMW keys. Hat tip to@jph for the ECS link. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51211904727/

[2mAn]

I have two keys I ordered from the dealership. They were both wrong, I plan to return with the part # in hand to make sure I get the key I want. I will post pics soon with the part #s, because in the factory pics, the picture didnt match what I got.

I wanted the key on the right in post #16, but got the one on the left. This was after they ordered the wrong key for me. The wrong key was one that I believe is for the one with the light or something...

[bradnic]

Valet key background info

parking valet key info. this is where I found the blurb about it being thicker than a regular master key. One guy says it's thicker, the other guy says only the slot is

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1648399-E30-Telling-an-aftermarket-Master-Key-from-Valet-Key

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/misc/e30_key_information.html

this thread claims the valet key is just an older model E12 and E21 BMW standard key for cars without the deadbolt feature. Makes a lot of sense

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=29405

Know that the E30 came with 2 different lengths of keys.
84 -> early 85, non-deadbolt, same as E21 320i and E12 528i
late 85 with-deadbolt -> '92 cabrios, same as E23, E24, E28

and the crucial quote I'm looking to verify - cut a standard key back to get a valet key (without the "I")

You can make it work in an early E30 if you have the key maker cut
the tip off so its the same length as the early key blank.
The key pattern is otherwise the same.

and a great quote here from 2001 (glad I'm saving it on this thread...)

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/1444511-Valet-Key-info-requested?p=1444584&viewfull=1#post1444584

Valet (submaster) cuts 8-11 are cut to max depth
I am a career locksmith. The first thing I did when I bought my car was to decode my key and recut another on my code machine.

I JUST researched BMW vallet keys on one of my key code software programs. I haven't tried this on my vehicle but, as it states, the sub-master [e.g., valet key] retains the origional cuts on spaces 1-7 and is cut to the maximum depth of 4 on cuts 8-11. The master key can also "lockout" the "sub-master" by using and additional amount of rotation. I hope this is vaugly understandable. Feel free to ask any other related questions.

Russ Wilson
Head Locksmith
University of N. Alabama

[15Michaeljoseph]

uh... no not rare. Doesn't say West Germany on it anywhere or something like that does it? My rebuilt Lobro axles say West Germany on them - paid $60 each :-)

I'll take $100 each for these though lol


PS.. the cases don't seem to make much sense if you have a remote FOB.

Darn it you know what I mean! Yes, I get it you can buy them from the dealer but those ones didn't COME with the car off the lot in 86! It will always be special to me :,)

On a side note, my bilsteins say 'made in W. Germany' on them :b


--Mike

[bradnic]

uh... no not rare. Doesn't say West Germany on it anywhere or something like that does it? My rebuilt Lobro axles say West Germany on them - paid $60 each :-)

I'll take $100 each for these though lol


PS.. the cases don't seem to make much sense if you have a remote FOB.

[15Michaeljoseph]

Hey there Mike. I don't think anyone could tell if you were serious or not about that key holder post in the rare parts thread....

I mean in a way it IS a rare part, I don't know anyone with the original one that came with the car, completely unused, still in it's plastic bag..... It's just that you can get a new one for what? $10?


--Mike

[bradnic]

Hahahahaaha I got you guys bad!!

When my mother bought the 87 325is in 1986, it didn't come with a lighted key... just the general plastic, valet, and wallet keys. hmmmm. Maybe I should head on down to the dealer and file a 28 year old complaint.


--Mike

Hey there Mike. I don't think anyone could tell if you were serious or not about that key holder post in the rare parts thread....