E30 OEM KEY OCD Thread

[nouseforaname]

bumping old thread.. just ordered a key from bmw with my vin # since I lost my recent cut key and only have the bad original key. Figured they'd give me the master key with the black head but no they sent me the valet key... $77 dollars for a key I can't open my trunk or glove box with. :( I called them back and told them that the key only opens the driver door and turns the car on and the guy that helped me at the dealer said he'll see what he can do and call up bmw north america. He also mentioned most likely they'll send another key. (better be free of charge i hope). i'll update soon.

bummer, man. sorry.
i'd recommend ordering a key from garagistic.

https://store.garagistic.com/51211900894-bmw-oem-blank-key

[bradnic]

This is covered earlier in the thread ... you will want to order 51211900877 (General Key - Coded), or as nouseforaname mentioned you can buy a general key blank from garagistic or eBay.

If you go with the blank key you need to find a locksmith that will cut steel keys. I really wouldn't recommend that since your original key will be all worn. I'd instead order the correct coded key and a lock rebuild kit for the drivers door, which is dirt cheap and fairly easy to install

[nouseforaname]

This is covered earlier in the thread ... you will want to order 51211900877 (General Key - Coded), or as nouseforaname mentioned you can buy a general key blank from garagistic or eBay.

If you go with the blank key you need to find a locksmith that will cut steel keys. I really wouldn't recommend that since your original key will be all worn. I'd instead order the correct coded key and a lock rebuild kit for the drivers door, which is dirt cheap and fairly easy to install

good point, bradnic. i forgot that i did worry about that when my blanks got cut off my old key. guess i got lucky.

[bradnic]

bumping this up for two questions, maybe three

#1 Is it more cost effective/ reliable to have the tumblers re-keyed or just buy new?
#2 What is the best process to get the tumblers matched to the VIN cut key?
#3 Can any locksmith do this? Simple DIY?

SORRY 2man!! Missed your post.

1) just rebuild. The kits are cheap and you'll end up with a brand new lock anyway. Alternative is to buy a coded lock.

2) You can do it by feel (worst case), or better carefully pull each tumbler out and write down which number it is (1,2,3 or 4). There are other options you can PM me about

3) it's doable DIY. Any competent locksmith can also do your whole car but they'll need the right cutting machine for steel keys.

[unitt01]

This is covered earlier in the thread ... you will want to order 51211900877 (General Key - Coded), or as nouseforaname mentioned you can buy a general key blank from garagistic or eBay.

If you go with the blank key you need to find a locksmith that will cut steel keys. I really wouldn't recommend that since your original key will be all worn. I'd instead order the correct coded key and a lock rebuild kit for the drivers door, which is dirt cheap and fairly easy to install

Yeah that is what I originally had planned to get, but I guess he must've ordered the standard (valet) key since it's exactly how the key I got looks like. Plus like I said it only works on the ignition and driver door. I'll ask him and see if that part number comes up. Honestly I'm just hoping I didn't waste money and not get a working general key.

[bradnic]

it only works on the ignition and driver door.

Any chance you can post a pic of the key you received?

The drivers door comment has me confused a bit. The valet key will not open the trunk or a locked glovebox. It also won't allow you to "deadbolt" the drivers door (I.e. Turn the key clockwise all the way horizontal to enable the unlock inhibit feature).

If the unlock inhibit is enabled you can't unlock the car from any other lock than the drivers door, and only with a master/general key.

If your drivers lock works properly and you cannot turn it all the way horizontal with your key then yes you probably have a valet key. They are all steel with a round head and no plastic on them. They also have an "I" stamped on the long part of the key. All 3 of the master keys have an "S" stamped on them, including the new vin coded keys I have ordered at the dealer for my cars.

One more thing - the valet key was the "standard key" for BMW cars before the unlock inhibit feature was introduced - E21s used them. That's why you see it described as a standard key in the parts catalogs

[unitt01]

Well a small update.. The guy that helped me out yesterday called me today and said he talked to BMW north america and that they'll send out another key. I asked if he happened to know the part # just to confirm its the one you guys had mentioned and he said he couldn't confirm since it wasn't provided. Fingers crossed its the general key this time..

What made me believe it was the correct key at first is that it didn't have the letter I on the key like on the first post.
But it still felt like it was wrong since it's smaller then the original key I had.

[bradnic]

That is most definitely the standard/valet key. You need the general/master key. Since they won't tel you the part number they're ordering (strange), you could receive a coded wallet key or a coded plastic head key. Whichever one you get should have an S on it.

If you do get a wallet key you will need to find a separate key head for it. I posted some pics of that part in the first few posts. I think it's NLA though, but you never know - check eBay

Good luck

ps "Coded" just means the key is cut for the tumbler combo that was assigned to your VIN.

[unitt01]

Final update :) got my key finally ! lol



And as you can see they crossed off another part # and wrote down 1900875 which in realoem converts it to part # 51211900875.. anyways i'm really happy I got it and just a heads up to anyone who happens to go to the dealer and order their key with a vin# MAKE SURE YOU/THEY ORDER THE GENERAL KEY AND NOT STANDARD !

[bradnic]

NICELY done! Sweet to see a new cut plastic head key - just like when the car was new!

Please try your drivers door deadbolt, glovebox, trunk and pass door with both the standard and general key - let us know how it goes ok? Test them both with he deadbolt enabled and disabled..

If you haven't rebuilt the door locks yet you may need to juggle things a bit

[RobTapps88]

My OEM light key has a tiny. signature inscribed on the opposite side of the S.. Light came broken so I modded it with a LED.. No point in getting new keys until I replace the locks

Sent from my LG-H831 using Tapatalk

[jph]

Interesting info in this thread. I ordered an entire lock set from the dealer for around $235 and it had ALL brand new locks, ignition cylinder, and glovebox lock and inner latch. It came with 4 brand new keys just like shown in the first post. For me building the car from the ground up and only have one key with the car this made the most sense. Some dealers may tell you they can't order it because it's a "controlled item" but some will do it for you. Very happy with this purchase

EDIT: The one thing I have found not included which would have been nice is the rubber gasket for the trunk lock assembly. Just a few bucks but didn't realize it until I needed it.

[bradnic]

That's great info!! Was there a single part number for the whole set? If so would you share please?

Thanks!

[jph]

That's great info!! Was there a single part number for the whole set? If so would you share please?

Thanks!

Sure thing. It's $245 on ECS but I'm sure if you shop around you'll find it a little cheaper.

51-21-1-904-727

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51211904727/

EDIT: Looks like I paid $214 about 6-8 months ago.

[bradnic]

Post 29 updated with the part number and pic info @jph shared. also bought a replacement lock and key set for one of my cars. Price went up $30 from what @jph paid. and it's only gonna go higher.