Brights?

[sweet88]

for the love of fuck, buy new lights.

I just love that!

[alanhoppe]

Good Job kid! Persistance pays off. This has been an enlightening thread. There have been a lot of good ideas and theories to help you along. The bulb being out would stand to reason and you tried that, to no avail. From there the relay and fuse all checking out. Tackling a short can be a very daunting task and it looks like you got'er! Let us know how the rest of the car is and what you're going to do with it- being a first car and all.

[bmwm42]

Wow

[accident]

change the bulb!

[GunMetalGrey]

its always the bulb

Are you kidding or being serious?

[DaveSmed]

its always the bulb

[accident]

replace your bulb.

[GunMetalGrey]

it's the bulb.

Nope, it was the wires going to the plug for the bulb.

[accident]

it's the bulb.

[GunMetalGrey]

Triumph! I have solved the problem! The blue/white wire going into the inner light was totally eroded on the plug, rusted out, so no current was getting to that bulb, and since it piggy backs to the other side it wouldnt give that side power, cut down the wires a bit and soldered them on. And it works perfectly

[DaveSmed]

First off, don't double post. Especially around here. It's not tolerated very well.

Second, take a look at this pic.



Note how in the center of the back of the terminal, there's a tang sticking out? You have to push that tang in, and then LIGHTLY tug on the wire. It takes some finesse, and since you haven't done it before it might take a couple tries, esp. without the right tool. But when you get it, the wire should easily slide right out.

[GunMetalGrey]

ok, I think i found the problem! but how do you take out the inner contacts from the female part of the headlight plug? http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base just so you know what I mean

[DaveSmed]

ok, to make it short and simple, fuse 2 is dead, when i would test it with brights with the multi meter it would read nothing. When i moved the negative lead to the engine block it gave 12 volts. So a broken wire it is?

Yessir, assuming the lights were plugged in at the time.
Now you have an absolute diagnosis, the White/Blue wire has a break. Not "well maybe its this, buy one and see if it fixes it" bullshit.

First order of business, any evidence of collision damage? If not, check and make sure that there are two White/blue wires attached to the inner light's terminal (one jumps over to the outer light) If the feed broke off leaving only the jumper attached, that would cause the problem.

[GunMetalGrey]

ok, to make it short and simple, fuse 2 is dead, when i would test it with brights with the multi meter it would read nothing. When i moved the negative lead to the engine block it gave 12 volts. So a broken wire it is?

[DaveSmed]

And while I am on the topic, do not ohm out wires. Hell, for the most part, don't use the ohms setting on your meter. It is only useful for a tiny handful of things on a car, and nothing you would use it for without knowing exactly when it is appropriate (like when a spec is given in ohms...)

Your ohmmeter lies. The voltmeter checking voltage drop does not. (see Lukes test light rant)

Measuring open circuit voltage with your voltmeter will turn it dishonest too BTW.