Well dynamatted doors will improve midbass like crazy. It creates a better enclosure for the speaker. I'm not good at explaining things, but you just gotta dynamat. lol, it's the best shit, but i wouldn't use dynamat, get some brown bread or rammaat.
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Kruzen, Dynamat stops metal from ringing. That is all. It does NOT have any effect on low frequencies, but it helps remove resonances that interefere with low frequencies....kinda like removing your tweets seems to improve the bass. I hope this explanation helps.
On the "bass without subs" issue...
I have personally dynamatted the fuck out of several cars...amplified the shit out of multiple thousand dollars worth of seperates...with and without seperate amps for tweeters, with and without high end EQ's...whatever. All of it sucks. Waste of time and money. Add a fucking sub, do a single 8" POS in a cheap MDF box, bolt it in place through the ski hole if you just can't stand the added weight....go on a diet, take your passenger seat out, run with half a tank of gas, whatever, but do a sub.
Use a cheapass 8W0 in .75 cu.ft, vented. You will never do without a sub again, willingly. Wanna hear an amazing sub? Use a single 4" port, 32 inches long on .75 cubic foot (net) and put the cheapest fosgate RFZ woof in it...just a single 8.
Anyone will be amazed. Clean, tight, accurate, detailed bass, down to a solid 25Hz.
As far as the sealed/ported controversy goes...I will stick to my guns that the decision was made by the engeneer that designed them, not us, nor some fucking salesman, nor the marketing department.
I personally like the sound of large ported boxes, as long as the woofer is happy. I am currently looking for a new woofer, and there is not a single woof I truly like in the car audio world. I want a moving mass (think of unsprung weight) less than 150 grams, Fs under 25Hz, Qts under .32. 10 years ago, no problem...today, no chance. Everything is built for small sealed boxes, so my desire for a fast, clean, accurate woof is almost impossible to find.
Oh yeah...I need it to handle 1200 watts RMS (just kidding) and I have only $125 to spend (not kidding)
Luke
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1Kruzen, Dynamat stops metal from ringing. That is all. It does NOT have any effect on low frequencies, but it helps remove resonances that interefere with low frequencies....kinda like removing your tweets seems to improve the bass. I hope this explanation helps.
On the "bass without subs" issue...
I have personally dynamatted the fuck out of several cars...amplified the shit out of multiple thousand dollars worth of seperates...with and without seperate amps for tweeters, with and without high end EQ's...whatever. All of it sucks. Waste of time and money. Add a fucking sub, do a single 8" POS in a cheap MDF box, bolt it in place through the ski hole if you just can't stand the added weight....go on a diet, take your passenger seat out, run with half a tank of gas, whatever, but do a sub.
Use a cheapass 8W0 in .75 cu.ft, vented. You will never do without a sub again, willingly. Wanna hear an amazing sub? Use a single 4" port, 32 inches long on .75 cubic foot (net) and put the cheapest fosgate RFZ woof in it...just a single 8.
Anyone will be amazed. Clean, tight, accurate, detailed bass, down to a solid 25Hz.
As far as the sealed/ported controversy goes...I will stick to my guns that the decision was made by the engeneer that designed them, not us, nor some fucking salesman, nor the marketing department.
I personally like the sound of large ported boxes, as long as the woofer is happy. I am currently looking for a new woofer, and there is not a single woof I truly like in the car audio world. I want a moving mass (think of unsprung weight) less than 150 grams, Fs under 25Hz, Qts under .32. 10 years ago, no problem...today, no chance. Everything is built for small sealed boxes, so my desire for a fast, clean, accurate woof is almost impossible to find.
Oh yeah...I need it to handle 1200 watts RMS (just kidding) and I have only $125 to spend (not kidding)
Luke
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