head unit wiring + fader delete

[StereoInstaller1]

No need telling me, I know my stuff ;)

I just wanted to give a heads up; in case you have the connector I do (shown in the picture above), then StereoInstaller1's intructions only partly apply.

Dude, WTF is that connector? I have worked on probably a hundred E30s, I have never seen that 4 pin molex have more than 4 wires...what a trip!

[StereoInstaller1]

Well I just finished the fader delete a-la-Luke and gave it a quick test run...AWESOME...so worthwhile. I'm amazed I left the poor Naka deck wired up so sub-optimally for so long.

2 channels splt amongst 4 speakers via factory fader = fail
4 channels for 4 speakers = WIN!

Thanks for the help!

Next time you are in the pacific NW, you owe me a Root Beer!

Glad it worked out so well.

Luke

[toffa182]

Dude, WTF is that connector?

I don't quite know, yet. :?

Anyway, I bypassed the connector and now every speaker gets it's own channel from my JVC KD-MX2800R MD/CD unit.

[Drew325is]

Next time you are in the pacific NW, you owe me a Root Beer!

Glad it worked out so well.

Luke

You got it!

Definitely worked out well...at the same time I added an iSimple IS76 for the iPod...additional win.

[mbarthelow]

I'm trying to separate the grounds for my new speakers in a 1985 325e, but the splice point isn't within reach. I follow the common grounds (YL/BRN & BU/BRN) as far back as I can but don't find the splice points. (I've opened the big cable tie). Any ideas?

How hard is it to further dismantle the console/dash to be able to reach further?

If I have to run new wires, what's the easiest path?

[digital_cowboy]

If I have to run new wires, what's the easiest path?

The fronts are kind of self explanitory once you have the kick panels off. The rears are easy to run back along the driver's side. Either under the carpet or under the plastic panels along the door. You can then run up under the back of the rear seat.

[StereoInstaller1]

I'm trying to separate the grounds for my new speakers in a 1985 325e, but the splice point isn't within reach. I follow the common grounds (YL/BRN & BU/BRN) as far back as I can but don't find the splice points. (I've opened the big cable tie). Any ideas?

How hard is it to further dismantle the console/dash to be able to reach further?

If I have to run new wires, what's the easiest path?

If you are only doing speakers, it does not matter.

[mbarthelow]

I put a new head unit in as well.

[StereoInstaller1]

I put a new head unit in as well.

Post a pic of your wiring, please.

[mbarthelow]

85 325e speaker wiring

Here's the wiring. The 4 positive speaker leads detached from the fader are to the right across the antenna cable.

The YL BRN & BU BRN leads are next to the left. You can see they still have the connector for the factory stereo, but I've clipped the blue & yellow positive leads that formerly went to the fader.

thanks!

Michael

[StereoInstaller1]

That sure looks like a premium sound harness.

You cannot do the trick I described above to an amplified system.

There is a cheap trick to make the factory amp work properly with an aftermarket deck, but 99% of the time, a rewire sounds better and is pretty easy.

If you are gonna be in Redmond, I will be at WestWerks from about 12 to about 9PM.

Luke

[mbarthelow]

Are you there on the weekends? I'd like to come over and talk to you, but probably can't make it during the week.

thanks,

Michael

[StereoInstaller1]

Micheal, I live in Gig Harbor, but am working out of WestWerks.

Gonna do the leavenworth drive this sunday though.

Call me first, I am there about 50 hours a week, generally.

541-543-4841

Luke

[Danny]

Yep Luke is da man.

[poopin04]

I think I'm sneaking out of work early to get this done today. :-D