tweeter wiring question with aftermarket HU

[paulkeith]

I have a quick question about tweeter wiring with an aftermarket HU for the front tweeters in a premium sound setup.

As it sits, I've run new wire from my headunit to all 4 corners (carpet was out already). I've connected the headunit positive and negative to the pos/neg terminals on the mid. The gray/green tweeter wire still runs up to the tweeter.

My question concerns the tweeter negative. Can I just splice the factory gray/violet into the negative terminal on the mid along with my headunit negative to complete the tweeter circuit?

I am disconnecting the factory amp entirely.


Based on this image:

[reelizmpro]

Factory speakers right? there's just a passive high pass filter for it. To answer your question...yes.

[paulkeith]

Yeah, stock premiums. I know that its a passive HPF built onto the mid, but I just wanted to make sure that the gray/violet would get me my tweeter negative. Should I snip the tweeter gn/yl or gy/yl before it splices back into the gy/vi and use that, or will I be ok using the wire already hanging right by the mid?

Thanks again,
Paul

[reelizmpro]

I'm not sure I follow you. You wired custom wiring to the mid. Then the tweeter should just piggyback off that connection except it's signal goes thru the cap. I guess you are using the stock tweeter wiring? just hook it up, it should all work.

[digital_cowboy]

Provided the stock tweeter wiring is in place and connected to the mid, here are the only connections you need to make from the HU to the front stock component system:

Headunit to Speaker
RF+ GY/WT wire's post. (Large Post)
RF- GY/BR wire's post. (Small Post)
LF+ GY/RD wire's post. (Large Post)
LF- GY/VI wire's post. (Small Post)

[StereoInstaller1]

Provided the stock tweeter wiring is in place and connected to the mid, here are the only connections you need to make from the HU to the front stock component system:

Headunit to Speaker
RF+ GY/WT wire's post. (Large Post)
RF- GY/BR wire's post. (Small Post)
LF+ GY/RD wire's post. (Large Post)
LF- GY/VI wire's post. (Small Post)

Fuck, man, quit being wrong.

If you leave the tweeter ground wire and the stock mid wire connected to the amp, it WILL fuck up your deck.

You have to make sure the tweeter ground (gray/green) is no longer connected to the harness from the amp.

[reelizmpro]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

[StereoInstaller1]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

[paulkeith]

He said he ran his own wiring so I assumed he disconnected from the stock wiring completely. In fact, he states he's disconnecting from the factory amp entirely.

I've run new wire TO the mid and disconnected the gray/red and gray/violet wires, but no changes to the 3rd wire (GRAY/GREEN) running from the mid to the tweet. I realized that I was missing a wire to complete the circuit for the tweeter, so this question came up.

If you leave the tweeter ground wire and the stock mid wire connected to the amp, it WILL fuck up your deck.

You have to make sure the tweeter ground (gray/green) is no longer connected to the harness from the amp.

This is exactly what I was getting at.

Here's what I want to do now:

Plug the gray/red (+) and gray/violet (-) factory connections back into the mid.

Move away from the mid towards the amplifier along the gray/violet and gray/red pair, find where the tweeter wire splices in at C407, and move slightly further upstream towards the amplifier, cut the wires, and run my headunit + to gray/red and - to gray/violet to this point, I should be good to go, right? Essentially isolate the whole wiring set for the mid/tweeter combo from the factory and use it as is, but take the factory amp out of the picture?

Sorry, know these wiring color questions are hard to follow. I appreciate the help.

Thanks again,
Paul

EDIT: got tired of trying to think about it abstract, here's what I mean. will this work?

[reelizmpro]

Yes, there you go. That's the entire point of running your own wiring isn't it? to bypass the factory amp. I wired to the mid and the tweeter "piggybacks" off the mid.

[StereoInstaller1]

Paul, great diagram...ETM FTW!

What I do is IMO far easier. I unplug the grey/yellow from the harness and cut the plug off.

Then, I pull that wire out of the wrapped harness (without unwrapping, BTW) along with the other tweeter wire, the grey/green. Then twist the 2 together so they are tidy.

Then, since I just ran new wire over to the mid, it is very simple to do new connectors, using the stock speaker terminals...but you need to use all 3 open terminals.

The terminal that the GY/VI is connected to is the negative, so connect the negative from the deck AND the negative from the tweeter (grey/yellow) to the same connector.

Speaker positive (from the deck) goes to the terminal that currently has a grey/red.

Obviously, the other wire goes to the tweeter. No need to fuck with the amp, just unplug it.

[paulkeith]

Just realized the two ETM pictures I've posted contradict one another....

Which of the following is correct

Tweeter (-) -> GY/YL -> C405 -> GN/YL -> C407 -> GY/VI

or

Tweeter (-) -> GN/YL -> C405 -> GY/YL -> C407 -> GY/VI

From my original post:



From post #9:



the ETM I have is titled 1989 BMW 325i ETM.pdf. My post #9 diagram came from page 6500-2 of this file. The picture I have in the original post came from another post on r3v and looks like pg 6500-1.

weird?


Long question short, am I looking for a GY/YL wire inbetween C405 and C407, or a GN/YL?

Thanks once again,
Paul

[StereoInstaller1]

If you pull either front speaker, you can easily see the harness coming from the door.

In that bundle is the tweeter wires.

The tweeter wires are grey/yellow and grey/green.

I cannot think of a single green/anything wire anywhere in an E30 stereo, premium or not.

[paulkeith]

Came home from work, did what you described in #11. The tweeter splice is super easy to find, its a big plastic plug taped onto the side of the main kickpanel area wiring harness.

Works great! Unbelievable how much better those stock premiums sound with just a new headunit pushing them.

I currently have the HPF on the headunit set at 120hz. Its a little gutless, but my sub should clear that up shortly.

Thanks for the help!

[StereoInstaller1]

C
I currently have the HPF on the headunit set at 120hz. Its a little gutless, but my sub should clear that up shortly.

Thanks for the help!

Bounce that down to 50Hz, you will be amazed at the quality of midbass from 20 year old stock speakers!

Of course, back up to 120Hz whnn you getz da beatz, yo.