Wire joins: solder vs. butt connector

[Danny]

Luke worked on my stereo.

[reelizmpro]

.Nothing wrong with crimps as long as you use the right sizes and have a decent crimping tool. Nothing wrong with soldering as long as you know how and properly insulate. I don't think it's much of an issue, they each have their applications.

[george graves]

Luke please give me a model number/picture of this magical crimper. I must give it a try.

I currently use the kind that just has the single peg that dimples the connector. It works great.

Just as a side note - I was looking around a while ago, and purchased this more expensive tool "heavy duty crimper", that's suppose to be the proper tool. Man does it suck:

[Spaz]

I use the crimper like george has above, but you can also get oe style open barrel connectors!

You can get the crimpers and dies from this site.

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

-Cam

[Van Westervelt]

I need a better pair of crimpers too.

[AndrewBird]

I got the channel lock crimpers Luke is talking about after his recommendation and I have to back him up in that they are the best crimpers you can buy. At least, for insulated terminals that is. They kind of suck for non-insulated, but I bought a different pair of crimpers specifically for that.

I will also agree that Scotch Locks sucks ass. They never work as they should, form a crappy loose connection and just all around suck.

I personally will always crimp connections in cars for the reasons that Luke listed. There is a time and place where soldering is necessary, but I do not think it is in a place where moisture/vibration/etc. is prevalent.

I kind of like the idea of the crimp connectors that have a low temp solder and shrink wrap built into them. Basically you crimp them on as normal, then use a heat gun or micro torch to solder/heat shrink all in one. I imagine this would be the best of both worlds, but IMO, is overkill for most situations. Even crimp connectors with built-in heat shrink is overkill for inside a vehicle (great for exterior stuff though).

[nmlss2006]

A question at this point: where does one find the heat+solder or just heat-shrink-wrap crimp deals? I'll look for the channel-lock pliers too.
http://www.channellock.com/Category.aspx?zcid=125 ?

[StereoInstaller1]

That (^) be the crimpers that have spent SO many hours in my hands.

If ya wanna waterproof connection but don't have solder/shrink goodies hanging around, try squirting a tiny bit of normal RTV or whatever silicone in the end of the butt before you shove the wire in and crimp it.

I worked with a guy from Alaska. He taught me that and some other tricks, but I can't remember them or I stole them so completely I think I made them up myself.

[AndrewBird]

A question at this point: where does one find the heat+solder or just heat-shrink-wrap crimp deals?

NAPA usually has then, but I like to buy them from www.waytekwire.com. Here are a few assorted kits that are nice:

http://order.waytekwire.com/products2/M50/320/805/0/1/Terminal%20Connector%20Kit/Terminals%20And%20Connectors/

[george graves]

where does one find the heat+solder or just heat-shrink-wrap crimp deals?

Hardware store and autoparts stores are carrying them now. I think I even saw them at walmart. You'll kidding yourself if you think you're going to make a sealed connector. It won't happen. It's amazingly hard to actually seal something. The only thing you'll end up doing is creating a partially sealed connection that will allow water in and then trap some of it there. Just look at e30 headlights as an example. You'll have a better chance at encapsulating something(like luke's susgetion) against the outside world than you will against sealing it.

I got the channel lock crimpers Luke is talking about after his recommendation

Ordered. The only difference seems to be the crimper is move closer to the fulcrum. Should save my wrists for more "special" alone-time activities.

Butt connectors do not have those issues, as the crimp (and you cannot pull mine apart, I promise) actually forges the wire into a solid structure with the metal of the connector.

You're on glue if you think the wire is not oxidizing in there. Not to mention that you've crimped it into a solid ball of metal. But I'll give you're magical crimpers a try.

[Jean]

I'll take some pics of my soldered connections that were still there after my hu was ripped out of the car...passed probably a 100+ lb test lol.

[Axxe]

I speak with 8 years of experience working on wiring that sees the worst possible environment: huge vibration, intense salt spray, blasted by road debris, and more vibration. Class 8 trailer light wiring. Did I mention there is a ton of current? Think 10+ amps contiunous through a winter blizzard driving on frost heaves sprayed with salt and sand 24 hrs a day, 365 days a year. Solder doesn't last, non-insulated butts don't last (both covered with top quality shrink tube). The only connection that lasts, and the only ones that I have never had to open on my equipment is the Grote heatshrink insulated butts. They are expensive (over $0.75 each when buying them by the bucket), but god damn they are the best. They are double wall insulated with glue, and transparent so you can see the quality of the connection, and the glue expanding outwards creating an air-tight seal. The added bonus is that when diagnosing an electical problem, you can see if there is any corrosion inside, which is rarely the case. I've only had a handful out of thousands corrode, mostly due to error during installation (too hot, melted shrink tube, or not hot enough allowing the glue inside to fully flow to the ends). Repairs that I have done on factory wiring with these crimps have lasted over two million miles on our BC-bound trailers, and countless miles on our local haul trailers. Nasa doesn't have to worry about potholes while loaded with 50,000 lbs of freight and ice buildup on wiring swinging it around.

[StereoInstaller1]

I speak with 8 years of experience working on wiring that sees the worst possible environment: huge vibration, intense salt spray, blasted by road debris, and more vibration. Class 8 trailer light wiring. Did I mention there is a ton of current? Think 10+ amps contiunous through a winter blizzard driving on frost heaves sprayed with salt and sand 24 hrs a day, 365 days a year. Solder doesn't last, non-insulated butts don't last (both covered with top quality shrink tube). The only connection that lasts, and the only ones that I have never had to open on my equipment is the Grote heatshrink insulated butts. They are expensive (over $0.75 each when buying them by the bucket), but god damn they are the best. They are double wall insulated with glue, and transparent so you can see the quality of the connection, and the glue expanding outwards creating an air-tight seal. The added bonus is that when diagnosing an electical problem, you can see if there is any corrosion inside, which is rarely the case. I've only had a handful out of thousands corrode, mostly due to error during installation (too hot, melted shrink tube, or not hot enough allowing the glue inside to fully flow to the ends). Repairs that I have done on factory wiring with these crimps have lasted over two million miles on our BC-bound trailers, and countless miles on our local haul trailers. Nasa doesn't have to worry about potholes while loaded with 50,000 lbs of freight and ice buildup on wiring swinging it around.

If I paypal you $5, will you send me a couple? I wanna see these. If ANY of my work sees that kind of stress, warranty is 100% void, but still, those sound absolutely bad ass.

[Axxe]

They are available at all heavy duty truck places, made by Grote. Next time I swing by the yard I'll grab a couple and send them your way if you want to try them out.

http://grote.com//cgi-bin/goc/goc.cgi?product_number=88-2350

[george graves]

Fedex overnight: