Originally posted by Rontgen
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Radio Wiring and Amp Bypass
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Originally posted by gathI want to do a factory amp bypass on a late ‘89 with premium sound with no fader. Is thing a good diagram to use?
Did this diagram work for you? I have an early build 1990 with premium sound and no external fader.
Thanks!
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Luke, your are featured in this ad!
10" Lukebox with Sundown audio SD2 10" and Rocford Fosgate Power 1000 Amp
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Took another crack at trying to figure out the wiring on my headunit and am honestly stumped. I only have the one white wire coming out of the dash (the one on my finger) which I assume would go to the remote on the headunit side.
If correct then this is the only wire I have left to connect and it should get rid of the miswire code.
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Another successful amp/fader bypass on my late model coupe. Many thanks to the OP and everyone else that assisted in making this thread what it is.
Now to hunt down the bad driver in the rear....
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Originally posted by KrautnotRice View PostHey bobaflesh, I just went through this exact scenario a few days ago in a '90 with premium sound. It was a bit tedious but I got it right on the first try including the factory amp bypass. If you still need help with this, pm me, and I can walk you through it step by step on the phone tomorrow (Sunday) afternoon.
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Hey bobaflesh, I just went through this exact scenario a few days ago in a '90 with premium sound. It was a bit tedious but I got it right on the first try including the factory amp bypass. If you still need help with this, pm me, and I can walk you through it step by step on the phone tomorrow (Sunday) afternoon.
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Originally posted by Grackle View PostI gave up. I have a six wire fader and no grounds. I just finished up pulling all the speakers and running new OFC wire. I have a NIB pair of Pioneer 160W 6x9's that are going into the rear deck once I get the riser rings I ordered. I tested them out yesterday and it sounds 100X better then it did when it was working with the factory stuff. To be fair, since someone was in there messing around to install the Pioneer head unit that is in the car, who knows what they did to it.
Luke
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostThrow up a picture...Im gonna have to write a better tutorial for early cars
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Originally posted by Heitzke View PostNo other reason to enter here besides THANK YOU, for this guide. It was initially very difficult to understand how everything tied together without actually looking in the dash, but once I got started and began clipping wires, it made 100% sense. Car sounds infinitely better now.
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No other reason to enter here besides THANK YOU, for this guide. It was initially very difficult to understand how everything tied together without actually looking in the dash, but once I got started and began clipping wires, it made 100% sense. Car sounds infinitely better now.
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Throw up a picture...Im gonna have to write a better tutorial for early cars
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Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View PostFirst, let me say this is NOT applicable to all E30s. Generally, Late Model (88+) will have this wiring on premium sound cars. IF you have a fader in the dash, this MAY work: you need to unwrap about 8" of fader harness to see if you have 4 pairs of speaker wires, as some cars have only 6 wires, not 4 pairs (8 total) so if this chart does not apply PERFECTLY to your car, don't use it.
Quick disclaimer: this is not idiot proof. You mess it up, don't whine at me, I do not care.
If this saves you countless hours of hassle or you are just feeling generous, feel free to paypal me a tip. Add "@gmail.com" to Stereoinstaller1 and I promise to only use the money for projects on my car.
OK, here is the info.
Obviously, what you do here is simple: connect the "deck" wire to the "dash" wire, then back at the trunk, connect that "dash" wire to the "speaker" wire.
This is not rocket surgery, boys. Get it done.
Aftermarket-----------Dash Wires-----------Speaker Wires
RF+ Grey--------------Blue/Red-------------Grey/White
RF- Grey/Black--------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Brown
LF+ White------------Yellow/Red------------Grey/Red
LF- White/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Grey/Violet
RR+ Violet------------Blue/Black------------Black/White
RR- Violet/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Brown
LR+ Green------------Yellow/Black----------Black/Red
LR- Green/Black-------Brown/Orange--------Black/Violet
(+12V Unswitched) Yellow----Red/Green (Changes to Yellow at C302)
(+12V ACC) Red-------------Violet/White (Changes to Voilet/Grey at C302)
(Ground) Black---------------Brown (may also be Brown/Black)
(ILL) Orange-----------------Grey/Red (Changes to White at C302)
(P ANT) Blue-----------------White (this is one of 2 white wires)
(AMP REM) Blue/White--------White (this is the one in the same harness as the speakers)
Luke
The stereo worked when I bought the car and then quit a couple months ago. If I run a jumper wire from the negative terminal on one of the front kick panel speakers to a negative output from the head unit, all the speakers start to work, though the head unit and the jumper wire gets hot. What in the world is going on here? Car is an 1986es.
ETA: The car has a 6 wire fader in the it.
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