Speaker recommendation

[-negrito-]

I have a '88 325i vert that needs a HU and speakers.

I was thinking of getting Pioneer DEH-P6200BT as an HU but not sure on speakers (I dont know if I have premium sound or not). For the kickpanel probably some component Rockford Fosgate Punch P152-S 5.25" or Infinity Reference 5030cs 5.25" or all 4 corners JL Audio C3-525CW or Pioneer TS-A1374R or Boston Acoustics SC55.

For now I'm not getting an amp till I figure out which sub I would like or recommended.

From what I read I dont believe these speakers require much fabrication. I could be wrong. But if you recommend something better I would appreciate it.

TIA.

[darrenforeal]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=195688

run these on an amp with a clean 75 to 100rms each and you'll be happy

[expressfish]

I can tell you that magnet space behind the rear panels is very limited. My rear speakers have not worked since I bought the car, so last night I started tearing shit apart. There is little space to work with and speaker tweeters may interfere with stock panels.

[e30BMart]

These are great: http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/spr-13c

Are these great? Yes, yes they are.

[BrettsE30]

I have infinity kappas in all 4 corners. The rears were tough because the tweeter stuck out farther than the woofer so i had to cut the plastic panels. I left the fabric on there. It actually worked out because i can push the button on the tweeter without removing the panel. Also the foam on infinitys for the woofer goes all the way to the edge and can rub unlike the stock speakers.

The fronts are pretty easy as any 5 1/4 will fit in the opening. I used infinity kappa components and put the tweeters in the factory tweeter location. It was tight but they just barely fit.

Pm for pics

[mkcman17]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=195688

run these on an amp with a clean 75 to 100rms each and you'll be happy

any better than stock premium sound?

[bzboardz]

i cant say anything about the DEH-P6200BT but i have the DEH-P7000BT and am very happy with it so far for my basic use. My car started out with non-premium speakers. I replaced the rear deck with premium speakers and kick panel/tweeters with Infinity Reference 5030cs. So far I have been very happy with the setup. It could use an amp but for my basic listening the system is clear and works great

[george graves]

Getting (good) audio parts advice on this sub-forum is next to imposable. You'll either have to go listen to a bunch of stuff(that's the right way to do it)....

...or you can find something you think might be nice, post up here about it, in witch case someone will say "oh it's all the same", and then you buy it and hope for the best.

Enjoy.

[StereoInstaller1]

Getting (good) audio parts advice on this sub-forum is next to imposable. You'll either have to go listen to a bunch of stuff(that's the right way to do it)....

...or you can find something you think might be nice, post up here about it, in witch case someone will say "oh it's all the same", and then you buy it and hope for the best.

Enjoy.

Ain't that the truth!

[bmwman91]

Look through my build thread if you want ideas. GO with non "car" brand stuff and you will save $$$ while getting better sound.

For mids, I recommend:

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=147&products_id=8613

At 69mm deep, they should just fit in without any issues. I got some 75mm deep, 6.5" drivers in up front, although it took more cutting than most people are probably comfortable with. These 5" ones should go right in, just check the diameter of the screw holes and the depth. The metal is fairly flexible, so you can buy yourself a few mm of depth if needed. If it does touch in the back, just add a little foam to stop vibrations.
EDIT
You might also want to look at the 4" version of this by SBA. I think it is closer to the size of the "5.25" that is in the E30.

Tweeters:

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=633

For $34 a pop, you won't beat these. I can modify them to fit in the stock pods (as seen in my build thread) for you if you decide to go this route.

Of course, this all sort of assumes that
a) you know how to design & build passive crossovers
b) using active crossover setup (recommended)

EDIT
Hell, just get this & call it a day. If you don't already have the stock tweeters, just use the co-ax ones & don't worry about it. For $120, you probably won't beat this. Cast aluminum frames, underhung neodymium magnets, win.

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=9001

I have had good results with Aurasound in my home audio adventures. They seem to be pretty legit, and (relatively) cheap!
My use of Aura drivers: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tory-pics.html

[///M42 sport]

...

[nrubenstein]

Stick with the stock premium speakers and spend your money on a JBL MS-8. (Used prices are getting down into the $400s.) Unless you're truly an expert with RTA and you have *lots* of free time, the MS-8 will get your system sounding better than you'll ever achieve on your own.

The E30 is a terrible environment for car audio. Good EQ is critical for good sound. The MS-8 automatically EQs (well, unlike most of the auto-EQ systems), time aligns, sets speaker levels, and provides a DSP function if you want it. Even better, it has built in amplifier power that can run efficient/low use speakers (like tweeters or rear fill).

[bmwman91]

A $400+ used audio processor seems a bit overkill. Time-alignment isn't really going to do much in a car environment. The tweeters & mids will be physically separated enough that misalignment of their acoustic centers isn't going to cause immediate cancellations like it would in a baffled multi-way loudspeaker. Considering how much road & engine noise you get in a car, it is sort of pointless to put that much work into the system. Most people don't go out to sit in their driveway to listen to music for extended periods.

The car cabin does cause some funky stuff below 200Hz (resonances, standing waves). Above 200Hz, it is more a matter of adjusting channel gains to account for driver sensitivity. EQing might be necessary to deal with nasty standing waves & resonances in the cabin, but I think that is more due to junky ported boxes that are designed to distribute 50cent to the surrounding neighborhood rather than reinforce low frequency content.

Personally, I say get some reputable drivers that have SPL curves in their datasheets. You won't need to EQ if you get a halfway decent driver that has a nice flat response. Cheap drivers have all sorts of ugly breakup modes & peaks in their response. I'd say that the stock drivers should be tossed. Their response curves are unknown, but based on their construction quality, it is safe to assume that their response is really lousy. By "reputable" I mean drivers that aren't "car brands." You have to spend 4x or more (compared to "indoor" stuff) on "car" drivers to get basics like cast aluminum frames, and you almost never get a datasheet with proper specs. Look through the links I posted. You aren't going to find a "car" driver of anywhere near that quality for $52. If you spend more than $200 on two mids & two tweeters, you are getting suckered. Price and performance are not related at all like people are led to believe. It's all marketing hocus-pocus.

[StereoInstaller1]

Those Aurasound speakers look sweet!



Shame they won't fit without major surgery, and won't fit the rear of a 'vert at all, and you won't be able to open your glovebox either.

[george graves]

but I think that is more due to junky ported boxes that are designed to distribute 50cent to the surrounding neighborhood rather than reinforce low frequency content.

I LOL'ed.

If you spend more than $200 on two mids & two tweeters, you are getting suckered. Price and performance are not related at all like people are led to believe. It's all marketing hocus-pocus.

I kinda got the felling that the +300 components weren't the best value - more the for guys competing. I assume that on the sub-$200 components, the peek RMS was a bit of a marking value too - something they slap on the side of the box at walmart? Is the average RMS a better indicator of "you'll be able to throw some power at this speaker, and use an EQ to pull some of the crap out" kind of thing?

For other people picking out stereo gear - it's a shame that these isn't a list of 3 or 4 speakers that fit, and are under $200. 3 or 4 amps that are decent. That's what's really needed is an "Here's a list of things that are ok, and work fine"....