fusebox circuit diagrams?

[DaveSmed]

Is the link identified in any way? I've never worked with fuseable links before so I'm not sure what to look for. Wouldn't this being bad prevent power from reaching the front of the car though?

For sure. I despise hackery. What other cool stuff you got? I saw someone had done speed sensing wipers and that seemed pretty cool but I don't really like the extra module you have to hang off the fusebox the way they did it.

And totally unrelated... is there something I can check to figure out why my power mirrors are non-functional?

The fusible link is actually for a smaller wire that runs along the main power feed. If it is broken, power will go everywhere except the engine electronics, as everything else is powered off of the large cable. A fusible link is a section of wire that is four wire gauges smaller than the wire it is protecting, and it has a special coating to prevent fire when it blows. That's it, it simply is there to be the first thing to go in the case of a dead short.


I have tons of stupid wiring ideas, some of them even work! ;)


Your mirrors are powered through K7 via Fuse 19. Check and see if you are getting power at the aux fan temp switch on the radiator, that is on the same fuse.

[DaveSmed]

Compare the terminal layout from your old one to the new one, specifically the location of terminals 86 and 30.

BMW switched the two from the way everyone else in the world has theirs.

[Cletonius]

I have tons of stupid wiring ideas, some of them even work! ;)

Your mirrors are powered through K7 via Fuse 19. Check and see if you are getting power at the aux fan temp switch on the radiator, that is on the same fuse.

I'm interested in these ideas. I'll shoot you a PM later today.

Cool. I'll take a look and see what I can see.

Thanks again!

[Cletonius]

Compare the terminal layout from your old one to the new one, specifically the location of terminals 86 and 30.

BMW switched the two from the way everyone else in the world has theirs.

ok. they looked the same so I will double check.

[Cletonius]

Give this a try, see if fuse 11 powers up:

Pump kicks on no problems.

I'm going to pull the trunk apart and look for the fuseable link, but I'm not sure that's the problem. The DME will flash the check engine light if I do the stomp test. Car still won't start even with the fuel pump forced to run by the jumper.

[Cletonius]

Compare the terminal layout from your old one to the new one, specifically the location of terminals 86 and 30.

BMW switched the two from the way everyone else in the world has theirs.

ok. they looked the same so I will double check.

They are the same, there's just an extra terminal 87 in the center.

[Cletonius]

Pump kicks on no problems.

I'm going to pull the trunk apart and look for the fuseable link, but I'm not sure that's the problem. The DME will flash the check engine light if I do the stomp test. Car still won't start even with the fuel pump forced to run by the jumper.

link is OK.

I tested everything again and there's no spark. I checked the leads to the coil as well as all the plug wires and everything has continuity and the connections are secure. The DME flashes 1444 when I do the stomp test.

[DaveSmed]

They are the same, there's just an extra terminal 87 in the center.

Ah then you are good to go, that will work fine.

link is OK.

I tested everything again and there's no spark. I checked the leads to the coil as well as all the plug wires and everything has continuity and the connections are secure. The DME flashes 1444 when I do the stomp test.

You aren't getting an RPM signal for some reason. First place to check is the crank position sensor.

[Cletonius]

You aren't getting an RPM signal for some reason. First place to check is the crank position sensor.

Car ran fine before the fusebox blew though, no problems whatsoever. Do you think that any excess current would have made it to the CPS and toasted it? Does the wiring for the CPS go through the fusebox or somewhere else?

edit: wouldn't it throw a code if the CPS is bad?

I have been researching and it seems as if there are problems with the main relay it might cause these problems too. I'd think that the main relay having problems would cause problems elsewhere too though.

Guess it's time to pick up a DMM. I've gotten this far with just a test light and continuity tester.

[Cletonius]

Got it started! Tested the CPS (499ohms) and after plugging it back together I hit the key for the hell of it and it started right up. The idle is rough but I think it's due to the 2+ month old fuel in the tank. I put a bottle of techron in the tank and topped it up. I'm going to drive it home (25 miles on the highway) tonight so I'll see how it's running when I get it home. Hopefully I'm back in business!

Now to get a new heater fan motor....

[DaveSmed]

Heh, go figure. Maybe the connector just needed to be reseated after sitting.

As far as the CPS wiring, none of the engine stuff runs through the fusebox, only chassis stuff.

The car would not throw a code in this case since the car will simply assume the engine is never spinning.

Glad you got it going!

[Cletonius]

Heh, go figure. Maybe the connector just needed to be reseated after sitting.

As far as the CPS wiring, none of the engine stuff runs through the fusebox, only chassis stuff.

The car would not throw a code in this case since the car will simply assume the engine is never spinning.

Glad you got it going!

it was a bear getting the cps connected, the icv is right in the way of the plug. I have big hands so I ended up using 2 screwdrivers, one to pry and one to operate the locking wire mechanism.

I'm glad I got it going too, thanks for the help! It was great to drive it last night. Sadly I had forgotten it needs brakes. :(