No start/ power problem

[derty30]

I get power to the gauges but once i turn the key it seems like it just cuts all power and it doesnt start. Half the fuses arent getting power either. the ecu is good tested the starter and alternator, they are fine. My girlfriend had someone give it a jumpstart and he put on the jumper cables wrong. So im trying to get this thing working!!!

the bad fuses are- 1,2,3,7,11,13,14,18,29,30

I heard there is a inline fuse that usually blows first before anything else but i cant seem to find it.

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

[Gregs///M]

So someone hooked up the battery cables backward and now all those fuses are blown? Why don't you replace the blown fuses. Also, Im willing to bet you just had a dead alternator or battery in the first place.

Now you have a lot more issues to deal with. There is a fusible link near the battery, check that first. If that fusible link is OK, then I would be safe to say you have several components with electrical damage.

[derty30]

yeah just the jumper cables were backwards, and all the fuses are good non are blown. i have the battery relocate in the back so where would the fuse be because i havent seen one.. i checked the alternator and starter at autozone and they were fine. The battery was good too but i havent checked it under load so im prob just going to buy a new battery for now.

[Gregs///M]

Ya try that. Be sure to download the ETM manual on this site. Power distribution section.

[E30Jigzaw]

I have the same problem on my vert anyone have any ideas ?? I replaced the starter alternator computer even the ignition !! Any one help us lol

[E30Jigzaw]

Anyone lol

[derty30]

I have the same problem on my vert anyone have any ideas ?? I replaced the starter alternator computer even the ignition !! Any one help us lol

Try changing the battery, before swapping out your alt. and starter you shouldve taken them to autozone for them to test them because they could still be good.

[Ceeker]

the fusible link is about 1 foot up from the pos battery terminal. You'll have to cut the heat shrink away to find it. it will be a flat metal piece about 1 inch long. 1/3 inch width. use a test light on it to see if you get constant power before the link. if you don't then you know for sure it's blown; if you do then it's good and you most probably have a power source problem - as mentioned - battery. take the alt out and get it load tested. you might have a bad voltage regulator.

one other thing: check the ground strap from the oil pan to the frame rail on the drivers side. Those are very common to corrode. you may have a ground problem.

[Will_NZ]

Check for voltage at pin#14 of the diagnostic connector and at the C100 connector in the fusebox- this is a cap head bolt you will find under the K4 relay in the fuse box. Both must have battery voltage.

Pin#14 gets its supply via the fusable link and C100 gets its supply directly from the +battery terminal, it is not fused.

Some of the fuses you have listed as having no power will only power up if the circuit is activated as they are on the output of a relay. These relays all get their power to the #30 pin from the C100 connector.