I ordered a Diamond Audio D310D2 sub today. The spec sheet calls for precisely a .75 ft/3 sealed enclosure. The sub displaces .0596 ft/3. Does that mean I should add that on top of .75? Or do companies usually factor the sub displacement in already? A 13x13x10" box is exactly .75 ft/3, but if I made it 14x13x10 to compensate for the displacement of the sub, the box is .752 which is pretty damn perfect.
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0.752 TJ. Recommended box size is after all the stuff inside it is "removed". Like... you have to add sub displacement, bracing displacement, port displacement, etc. In your case, just sub displacement. But honestly, in a sealed box, you wont notice that small of a difference at all. Either box size you posted will work out well.
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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Where do you get 25% increase in box size??? From 0.75 -> 0.752?
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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I actually wanted the box to be 14" tall so the sub is off the ground a little bit more to poke thru my false wall.
I appreciate your help though Will. My reasoning on being so precise is that I've built tons of boxes before and never really gone all out. We usually mess up with our measurements somewhere or make a wrong cut and just roll with it, messing up the size of the box. 14x13x10 with 1/2" MDF is going to yield and inside volume of .81 so will my sub compensation it will be spot on.
I even mapped out how I am putting the box together in my head so I don't mis-measure my cuts. I need 14x13" pieces for the front and back, and 13x9" for the top/bottom as well as the sides. I am going to use gorilla glue to join all the joints together and finishing nails to hold it in place, then some liquid nails or silicone on the joints on the insides to seal it up perfectly.
What is the best way to seal the sub itself into the face plate? I've heard non hardening rope caulk works well.
EDIT: Technically, .75 to .752 is a .2% difference.
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I use weatherstripping. Like for doors. Why the 1/2" MDF choice? Why not 3/4? Gorilla glue is very good. Very strong glue. On MDF when I used it, I got a damp rag and wiped the 2 surfaces geing glued together with it. On the bottle it says something about the glue needing some moisture to set properly or something. It worked out well for me but not really 100% sure if you "need" to do that or not. With MDF you need to watch out for splitting it. Always predrill if possible. Are you going to be covering the box at all?
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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1/2" should be alright, but 3/4" is better ;) lol My box for my 8" is 0.3 cubes sealed. 12.5" x 14" x 6.5" It is slanted towards the rear of the car and bolted directly to the metal on the back seat. You might be able to screw it through the bottom of the box into the floor. I really have no ideer on that one. Offtopic... did you ever sell that rear strut brace?
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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Blah, I misread it as the sub displacing .75 cf... which would be a huge difference of net vs. gross volume if we're talking about a small sealed box.
Then going back over it, I read it wrong, and .75 is kinda big for a sub, even to me.
EDIT: and to add something constructive, I would screw the box in using Jordan's style (bolted through the rear seat, secured on the inside of the box). As far as the false panel, I would just put velcro on the box, and matching pieces on the back of your trim piece.
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oh shit, here we go again...I believe 3/4" is necessary. 5/8" is the thinnest I would go, ever. I brace when building with 3/4", but the extra 4 pounds won't kill me.
The D3 will have a fat ass gasket that you have to go out of your way to get a bad seal on. No caulk needed. Seal the inside of the box with real 100% silicone, though. Latex is crap, so is liquid nails.
Kick some ass, man!
Luke
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The norm for boxes is 3/4" or 1" MDF. 1" MDF is a lot more expensive and 3/4" is pretty strong so usually 3/4" is used. The big SPL guys in competitions use SEVERAL layers of 3/4" (6-8 layers). I would go with 3/4" unless you have extra 1/2" just sittin around needing to be used.
WillRIP e30 (brilliantrot '91 325i) 11/17/06 Byebye: 8/21/07
Welcome e30 (brilliantrot '90 325is) 12/23/06
DaveCN = Old Man
My signature picture was taken by ME! Not by anyone else!
Originally posted by george gravesIf people keep quoting me in their sig, I'm going to burn this motherfucker down.
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what kind of carpet is used to cover enclosures??
what are these seals that you guys are talking about?? do you mean a seal around the rim of the sub?IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Originally posted by PeaveyBassistThe norm for boxes is 3/4" or 1" MDF. 1" MDF is a lot more expensive and 3/4" is pretty strong so usually 3/4" is used. The big SPL guys in competitions use SEVERAL layers of 3/4" (6-8 layers). I would go with 3/4" unless you have extra 1/2" just sittin around needing to be used.
Will
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