Cluster Lights Don't Turn Off After Starting, Power Locks Intermittent

[Quinthirty]

Lately, I've noticed that when I switch the ignition on in the morning (first start), the car would start, if I just leave the car on idle, the indicator lights i.e. battery, brake lining, and oil (No ABS indicator) on the cluster won't switch off. But if I rev it a bit, then it would go out as it should, normally.

Together with it, the power locks do not operate consistently. Sometimes, the locks would not open on the other doors i.e. passenger doors, gas tank, trunk, at times it would work perfectly fine.

We've had a bit of rain the past week, and was just wondering if this happens if some of the parts get too moist and corroded, but I'm unsure what to look for.

I'd appreciate it if anyone can share their experience. If so, what is it indicative of? A dying battery, corrosion, grounding, or what not...

Thanks!

[Gregs///M]

I think the two problems are separate. The indicators lights staying on could be a sign of a few things. Is your idle lower than normal? Sometimes E30's with low idle will have this issue on startup and go away with a first throttle push. A vacuum leak could cause a lower than normal idle. It could also be a sign your alternator is getting weak. Might want to consider a brush and regulator replacement if its the original alternator.

For the door locks intermittent problem, I would start with replacing the fuse for the door lock circuit and see if the problems continue.

Also I believe both of those circuits (indicators and locks) are on the same grounding. Above the brake pedal near the steering column. On the bracket with two 10mm nuts with a bunch of only brown wires running to it. Might be worth it to inspect those lugs, make sure they are not corroded or oxidized and the bolts are secure.

GL

[bernzpeed]

What Greg said. Either alternator or weak battery.
with regards to the lock, try replacing the central lock module.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

[Quinthirty]

Thanks to both of you...I'll check on the alternator and grounds. I hope its not the power lock module though.

I'm unsure about the power lock fuse though, Greg. I would be more inclined towards a weakening battery because I noticed that when the engine is on, the locks work. But when the engine is off, its a crap shoot.

[Scallywagon]

Honestly it could be a short anywhere. Mine ended up being my fuel pump wiring shorting on my sender.

Worked on anything recently?

Water shorting the CL system could give you this, check your fuses?

Need to just bust the multimeter out and start testing stuff, as well as checking fuses

[StereoInstaller1]

Thanks to both of you...I'll check on the alternator and grounds. I hope its not the power lock module though.

I'm unsure about the power lock fuse though, Greg. I would be more inclined towards a weakening battery because I noticed that when the engine is on, the locks work. But when the engine is off, its a crap shoot.

I am thinking you may have a bad ground in the dash.

Lower voltages to cluster and lock module would make more sense that bad alternator.

[Gregs///M]

My ventures into cluster repairs have shown me that it is very common to have intermittent fuse failure. Many customers that I have talked to have repaired their problems simply by replacing their fuse.

These 20+ year old fuses develop cracks along the fusing path and can expand depending on temperature, causing intermittent connection/operation of associated circuits.

Also the fact that the locks work with the car on and intermittently work with the car off help support my theory. The running voltage of the car is higher with the car running, thus more power is transferred through the fuse. With the car off, less power is transferred which can be a threshold of intermittent connection in that old fuse.

Even though your fuses might look, or even test OK with a meter. You should always test them with a test light. That is, you are testing them under electrical "load." Testing them with a meter, a high impedance device, does not generate much "demand" from the fuse and can show a false readying of connection.

In my opinion, if you have intermittent problems in any vintage car, replace the associated fuse, don't check it, just replace it.

[Quinthirty]

Thanks for the expert advice, guys! I will replace all fuses & check dash grounds. How many dash grounds do we have on these cars anyway?

[bangn]

handy to know about the fuses, im going to replace all my original ones now just to be safe for future issues

[StereoInstaller1]

My ventures into cluster repairs have shown me that it is very common to have intermittent fuse failure. Many customers that I have talked to have repaired their problems simply by replacing their fuse.

These 20+ year old fuses develop cracks along the fusing path and can expand depending on temperature, causing intermittent connection/operation of associated circuits.

Also the fact that the locks work with the car on and intermittently work with the car off help support my theory. The running voltage of the car is higher with the car running, thus more power is transferred through the fuse. With the car off, less power is transferred which can be a threshold of intermittent connection in that old fuse.

Even though your fuses might look, or even test OK with a meter. You should always test them with a test light. That is, you are testing them under electrical "load." Testing them with a meter, a high impedance device, does not generate much "demand" from the fuse and can show a false readying of connection.

In my opinion, if you have intermittent problems in any vintage car, replace the associated fuse, don't check it, just replace it.

I agree wholeheartedly.

Never test a fuse with your eyeballs and always use a load of some sort.

Test light is best, and there are decent ones at WalMart for $5...or solder wires on a lightbulb if you have to.